Well I just picked up a legacy to drive this winter that I knew had a few issues before I bought it, what I didnt realize is how severe the problems were. 1st off it has a torn cv boot, and maybe a bad joint (tranny side) so I just bought a whole new cv axel cuz that one seems like its on its last leg. 1 question with this is it says to use the inner stub or something from my existing one since i have an automatic. This is new to me, as I havent had any autos before, what exactly are they talking about? 2nd is that I knew it leaked some oil, and was just going to say to hell with it and drive it, but little did I know it is now leaking about a quart a day. well I just went in an ordered a new oil pan gasket, valve cover set, and a front crank seal (which I am not looking forward to installing and any advice would be appreciated) I am wondering a few things, since i am not able to pinpoint the exact location of the leak I figured I would just replace all the spots that looked oily and could be the source, now if there is a diy on the front crank seal that would be nice to read. i bought the chiltons manual (since it was all that I could find locally) and I am sure I can find it in there, but I dont feel that chilton does a very good job when describing stuff. is there anything else I should get while I am doing these gaskets. I was thinking an oil pump o-ring but have to find it somewhere else. I just want to hopefully get this thing to stop leaking and wrecking the driveway. on another note, how is the radio wiring on these damn things, I was looking for an adapter, but I dont really want to spend $20 on something that I dont need. especially when I am not really planning on doing anything but getting this car to be a daily driver thanks Rob. (woohoo post #1)
there is no oil pan gasket, its just RTV, and most likely its not leaking, cam seals leak, oil pump/crank seal, and rear access cover, maybe valve cover gaskets, i would bet your l
also, we have all these items in stock at morries tonka subie, you get 20% off for being a club member, where did you "order" these from?
Welcome. northursalia.com has some info on how to change the timing belt. Most of which you'll need to do to change the oil pump seal and o-ring. http://www.northursalia.com/modifications/drivetrain/tbelt/tbelt.html Another thing you could check for the leak is the oil pressure sender, it's underneath the alternator. Although, I'm not sure if that would leak the amount of oil you are seeing.
look for all of the places that look "wet" and target those areas. valve covers gaskets are prime spots for leaks and are a really easy fix. you will need to get the new little grommet/washers things for the bolts though. they are pretty cheap. the oil pan most likely isnt an issue. you might check the oil pump though. look under the motor at the where the oil pump connects to the block. if it is wet there, or there is oil dripping down the oil galleys (little knoby things sticking out of the bottom of the pump) then this seal could be bad. it would we worth replacing if youa re doing the front main seal. Check behind the alternator down on the block this is where the oil pressure sending unit is. when these get old the diaphragm wears out and they leak oil. The front main seal isnt too bad to replace. you will want to replace the timing belt and possibly the water pump while you are in there. pretty straight forward the only tip i have is to keep all of the alignment notches up, it will make assembly much easier. the axle is easy. just make sure you have the right size punch. dont worry about the tranny stub. pop out the roll pin on the tranny side and the stub will remain in the transmission. hope this helps.
I just went to checker, i know everyone hates checker, but I got everything for $85 because they did a price match and I got 25% off so i couldnt pass it up. and the rear access cover looked as if it were pretty dry, the main spots that were wet were the drivers side valve cover gasket, the oil pan, and the front crank seal (at least I am hoping that is what it is since I ordered it:biggrin: ) here is the link for the oil pan gasket I had them order also just thought I would mention it is a 2.2 and I have read quite a bit of stuff on the different problems people have had. and thanks prezawagon I will definently check that, wouldnt it be funny if it were just a simple problem with that. :laugh:
^ it could be any of those things. I have a 2.2l. I had leaky valve cover gaskets. I would lose about 1qt of oil every 1000 miles. I had a leaky oil pump and front main seal. I would loose a qt about every 800 miles. The OPSU was marginal it just made a mess. was missing 1 bolt in the oil pan, didnt leak a drop. no seal in the oil filler stem, lost 1.5qts in 200 miles.
checker will likely not be able to get some of the specialty o rings and seals, as they call me all the time for them, lol
Yeah that was just a 1 time purchase as in my opinion anyways you can not get oem quality stuff at those places, so i am sure i will be contacting you. And i definently think i will check the oil folter. Didnt even think about someone being dumb enough to do that (not at all trying to offend you) but given everything else wrong with the car, and the fact that it is a fram i should definently look into it. I really dont even care all that much about all the lost oil as it keeps nice fresh oil in, but having it smoke at every stoplight is getting embarassing haha. Well i used the old 9v battery trick to figure out the speaker wiring. But i cant find a constant 12v wire anywhere in the wiring for the radio. I will post up what everything is when i get home.
