Legacy wagon any insight you can give me..

I really want to get back into a suby again and im short on cash because of my DSM. in short she took a **** on me and i lost all of my money. ive had a 95 2.2 lsi sedan before but i wasnt that into cars back then so i didnt really pay attention to the life or health of the engine. Now, I dont know too much about this car, im going to look at it tonight and i want to know if there is anything i should be weary about when checking out this car. is there any common problems the 2.2 wagons are notorious for and that i should be aware of ( tranny leaks, burning oil, rust etc.) i do know that it has 160k on it but the 2.2's can run forever. if any one can give me any insight that would be awesome thanks guys.

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/car/534448779.html

 

It will most likely be leaking oil from oil pump, V/C gaskets, and cam seals/o-rings. Go drive around in circles to see if the viscus coupler is binding up at all.

 

yup, easy and cheap fixes if you do it yourself

 

97 2.2 is interference engine, so plan on changing timing belt soon, if it was not changed recently.
Also most likely to leak oil from rear main seal and plastic separator plate, easily fixable if you do clutch, until then might leak out quite a bit.
Also paint on the front bumper is kinda thin and likes to peel easily.
If its wining in 1st gear on acceleration - most likely that clutch release bearing has worn grooves on the tranny input shaft.

All these are not big problems - just giving you bargain points

 

no, the 1997 is not an interference engine, any phaze 1 2.2 is NOT. if the head looks like a 2.5 sohc then its a phaze 2

 

Last time I was researching this - 2.2 turned interference when valves got solid. And That's MY97

 

any 2.2 that looks like a 2.2 isnt interference, 95% sure

 

Incorrect...

The phase 1 2.2L (pre '98) is a NON-Interference engine.


Either way, if the belt has not been done, it would be a good idea to replace it.

 

Tell that to this guy, and there's a relevant discussion there also.

 

Then you must have the newest series motor. I bet it depends upon build date of the motor, and serial #. I'd say it's a safe bet that it's a non-interference motor, but just replace the belt. They are cheap, and easy to do.

 

thanks to everyone who gave me advice. i went to look at it today and it just wasnt as nice as i thought. and keep in mind im looking for a nice looking DD and this one didnt even have an tachometer. granted you dont NEED one but on a manual its nice to have. plus its a pet peeve of mine when i feel like im driving something janky. but im still looking and i will keep all of this advice close by

 

So it was a Brighton model...

 

in all honesty i have no idea what a brighton model is. im assuming its base model and if thats true then yea im almost positive was.

 

brightons were the absolute bear bones cars. Hence why it didn't even have a tacho.

 

Mine didn't even have pass side mirror

 

probably doesn't even have rear window defrost right?

 

Not so brutally bare

 

meh, i got a brighton (spent 1900 172k). spent 30 bux on a cluster and swapped in a tach. not a big deal and really easy. sure the rear drums are dumb, but its a DD not a race car. besides the lack of power options, and cruise control, its a great car that can take a serious beating.

 

yea theres no doubt about that. i just think i might need something with at least SOME power options.

 

In an older car lack of electical options might be a good thing
What is bad about brightons though - is that they are more likely not to be maintained properly.

 

would the brighton retain it's light weight if you swapped in a rear disk set and a VLSD? I am asking because this car would be the perfect swap donor for the STi Ver4 I am looking at right now.

 

^^Brighton's light weight is simply because of the fewer power options. Manual windows can save up to 50 lbs in a car, being as there's no heavy motors in the doors, and less of a window regulator, plus no wiring. Think of this times however many options there are, and you've saved alot of weight. I think rear discs and VLSD would be a very minimal weight addition.

EDIT: Just make sure the master cylinder and/or brake proportioning valve would be up to the task.

 

That's easy, just find a donor master cyl. from another outback or leggy with 4-wheel disk.