Ok, I dont' know if you all know, but I'm putting an ej22/25t hybrid in my 98' Legacy. I've been trying to figure out what managment to run. I can't afford to go full standalone (and dont think I want to since it's a DD). Piddster suggested MAF Translator Pro, and I've heard others are running PerfectPower and Emanage. I was hoping some of my fellow subie fanatics could help me figure out what i need.
ide go with a full standalone, IMO the PP6 and things like it are junk. look at link, and greddy e-manage ALSO megasquirt
find an old link plus. I've seen them sell fo as low as $400 on nasioc. Also look for the miatalink sold by flyin' miata. Its a standard link plus pre set for a supercharged miata, but can be used like a normal link as well with any vehicle.
i have heard good things about the greddy emange ultimate. I would personally go standalone for this level of build. if you were using wrx of sti heads you have way more options. but since youa re using the older 2.5l heads you are stuck with limited options, none of which are ideal. From what i have heard Hydra is the way to go. Kelly has it, and said it was plug and play. far easier then messing with wires to the ecu, trust me i have been there. trouble shooting wiring around the ecu is no fun. Go on RS25.com and look around the electrical section there is alot of info for EMs for 2.5ls there.
I was talking to piddster tonight about management....I honestly would go standalone. I'm gonna build my bottom end to be very strong, and full standalone ECU/wideband. Those are the 2 things I'm not gonnna cheap out on to get my car running with a turbo setup.
Don't even bother with an Emanage or a Perfect Power. Derek has been running the MafT Pro for quite some time and I'll attest, its a great unit. To run it, you need the firmware update from the main dude, but no big deal. If you can score and older Link Plus for $400, then do it. It'll be significantly more powerful. Don't get me wrong, there is a major difference between the G1 and the G2, but in your application, it really doesn't matter. Go with whatever is fiscally sound when you get there(other than the greddy or perfect power).
Well the only reason I am hesitant about the MafT Pro is i can't find any info about putting one in a subie. Is your friends car OD1 or 2? Did he use a differnet Maf, or what? I'm worried about maxing out the stock one. I think you mentioned running a GM one or something...
Ive been looking getting some form of management aswell. Anyone ever put an AEM EMS in their subie? I have a line on an epic deal on a new one. Anyone know if the self base tune is based off the old sensors? IE the MAF that im trying to get rid of so once its above 5v its blind and i will need to get a tune beyond for the MAP?
AEM will work jsut fine. I swear every once in a while on RS25 a link plus sells for around $400-$500. I'd say bang for the buck wise its the best deal. Its as easy to install as a hydra or any other standalone and has good options. I ran one on my yellow car and it never gave me problems and was fairly easy to tune.
Well if I let my car sit for an extra month, I could afford to go stand alone, but I was under the impression that standalone wasn't a good idea for a DD car that needs to be able to start when it's -30 like it will now... Also, if I do break down and buy something like a new Link, what besides the actaull unit do you need, cause the G3 with a harness and internal MAP sensor is like $9XX, but would I need to buy other stuff for it to get it in the car?
All I had to buy other than the unit and the harness was an Inlet Air Temp sensor, since I'm running in speed density. Don't worry about wether or not you'll be able to start it in the cold, you can adjust for that. Its kinda the point of a standalone. It takes some time, but you can get it dialed in really well. If you can get a used link for that cheap, or if you want to spring for the G3, I'd say go for it.
Well I have a feeling that I wont just happen upon a used Link before I need it. I don't really want to sit around for months waiting on a deal. If I find one randomly in the next month or so that I'm doing everything else to my car, great. If not...maybe I'll be springing for the G3. I really know nothing about tuning, so if I went with the g3 I'd be rid of all the Maf bs right? It would probably work out better in the long run too since I will need standalone once I save $ for a new tranny and more boost.
i just finished puting in the link g2 wire in unit in my car. the wiring process takes a while. however if you take your time on it it gose pritty easy. i havent finnish tuning the car yet. but so far every thing has gone really smooth. and if you need igniters i have ones that i didnt use due to not knowing that the coil packs have ones in them. and you can get rid of the MAF senser like you asked.
In my opinion, when it comes to building a engine dont rush it just to get it running. Take your time and build it the way you wnat it to be when it is done. If you rush into it just to get by now, and change it later you will be spending more in the end. I have the Link Plus plug in play, I am very happy with it very easy to use. When I bought it I was running the stock rs 2.5 sohc heads, and when I went to the 2.0 dohc heads I had to send it to link to get a new chip because the firing seguence is different. I think the Hydro is very similar to the Link. Either one would be a great buy.
