might have to say goodbye to my engine...

for those who don't know, it's an 02 wrx with stage 2 and a tune

so...i was coming home from st paul today and was doing some sprited driving. while i was in fourth, when i let go of the gas, instead hearing my bov go off, there was a big flutter. after that, i got off the highway and everytime i shifted, bov don't go off but only the flutter sound. i got home and put the stock bpv in and took it for a drive. it still made the noise but this time, there's a clicking in there with the fluttering. i thought about if it's the y-pipe might of gotten loose, but i was hitting target boost fine. so i let the car cool down and went to start it again, now at idle you can hear the clicking and it's LOUD....coming from left side of the engine. any other thought of what it might be..??

 

Like this?

 

so everyone with a 2.0 should run at least 10w-30??? I'm scared since I'm running M1 5w-30.

 

yeah...like that...what do i do now..?...is it safe to drive..?

 

rebuild the engine?

 

If you stop driving it now, you could rebuild it. Otherwise you'll need a different motor.


I vote 257 shortblock.

 

but if you go with the sti shortblock dont you have to pnp the wrx heads cause they need to flow a lot better than stock?

 

The mass airflow sensor takes care of any issues related to how much air is flowing into and out of the motor.

 

so you are saying if i wanted to i can just swap in a shortblock and wam bam i'm good?

 

All EJ series shortblocks are interchangeable with all EJ series heads(and associated hardware), for the most part. If he wanted to, he could use an EJ22E for $150 from the junkyard. Not that it would be a good solution, but you could.


If rod knock is the problem, a new shortblock would take care of it. Otherwise rebuilding it would be cheaper parts wise, but its not for the faint of heart.

 

sell the car to me

 

^ shouldn't you be in bed?

 

interesting idea. the wrx heads would drop the compression probably into the 8:1 range. not ideal, but an interesting cheap fix (EJ22E FTW!)

 

lol, i was doing the opposite, WRX short block with RS SOHC heads.

 

so if i do want to go with the sti 257 block, do i need sti cams and ecu to go with it..?

 

STI cams are different due to the AVCS

 

no, you dont need the cams, you can use your existing everything, it will be a potent package

 

and word to the ej22e being a very cheap upgrade, the only downfall i could see would be you would need a tune, but you would need that for a 257 anyways

 

so a stock sti ej257 block pretty much bolts rite on to my heads and tranny with no problem and i shouldn't need anything else..?

 

and from what i could tell, all the accessories and sensors swap over without much effort at all

 

how long...if i drive very carefully will this last me..??..because my student loans don't come in til around jan 14...

 

well, you'll probably throw the rod if you drive on it for too long, and that can cause even more damage. do you have another vehicle?


Oil pump, water pump, timing belt gear, crank pully, coolant crossover, etc will all swap over from your EJ205 shortblock.

 

Would you see any performance increase with the 257 or are the heads the bottle nexk?

 

no the heads flow really well, you would gain alot of low end torque because it ups the CR a couple points and its larger displacement/greater stroke

 

port them anyways!!!! lolz Since they're OUT, might as well! hahahahaa (I know nothing!)

don't drive anymore. THe more you drive, the more shavings there are going to be in the oil pan, and the oil pick up will pick it up and throw it into the pump, and the oil cooler....then the filter. PARK IT!!

 

You are going to NEED a good tune and hope that your engine doesn't throw phantom signals that the ecu will think is knock.

IMHO, get a UTEC if you decide to go this route.

 

Please......so with that rationalle, you should just be able to slap on a gt35r and let the MAF take care of things for you? :eek4:

I don't think so. The car WILL need to be retuned.

 

alrite...the car is sitting in my garage rite now...lucky enough...it's winter break and dont have to drive to school...only to work though...but anyways...in the process of taking out engine tonight...this is my first so it'll be interesting...any pointers or tips out there...and does anyone have a 257 block they wanna sell..??..or else i'm just gonna go on nasioc and get one off there...anything else let me know...and if anyone wanna lend a hand...that would be awesome...

 

No you don't unless you prefer to have them.(about the sti cams)
If you're engine is knocking now. It will cost you almost the same to rebuild it that just to buy a STI short block. STI shortblock is the way to go considering the cost and upgrade from a 2.0 to 2.5 You better hurry thou since non of the local dealers will sell you an STI shortblock anymore unless you own an STI. Last one I did we had to order from a dealer in Colorado.

 

ok...almost everything is off now...just need to go buy a crane so i can lift out the engine...man...i should really buy a block first...now i have everything out and nothing to go in yet...anyways...thanks for all the help and suggestions...

 

alrite, since i'm taking everything apart anyways, mine as well do the turbo too.
power wise...i would like to get somewhere in the 330-350whp...

turbos i'm looking at are the 18G and 20G...
injectors somewhere between 750cc-800cc...
perrin ss fmic
walbro fp
a very good tune...
anyother suggestions...??

 

I meant all things being equal besides the shortblock.

Maybe I give the factory ecu too much credit...

 

just a little off-topic to the person who questioned oil thickness. In reality you can use either 5-30 or 10-30. The 10-30 is only thicker when the oil is cold. Once both oils are at operating temp they are the same viscosity.

 

should this be everthing i need for the swap...??

http://www.thekingofparts.com/servlet/Detail?no=48&sfs=5a6525c8

 

and a retune basically, yeah should cover it i think

 

oh yeah...what head gasket do i buy..??...the sti gaskets because it's an sti block..?? or wrx heads gasket because it's wrx heads..??...cometic have head gaskets that are 1.0mm/040...and 1.1mm/045...and 1.3mm/51...which one do i choose..??...or should i just buy the oem head gaskets for the 2.5l...??

 

i think Jason used the STI cometic ones...not sure tho to be honest, i think* either would work

 

and alot of people on nasioc is saying since i have it out already...to have my heads checked too...so i'm gonna need you subie techs out there for this one...

 

You need the sti gaskets. You also need to clean the heck out of anything/everything the oil touched. If you're engine knocked, most likely you have all kinds of bearing shavings mixed with your oil. Ignoring this will result in another knocking engine.

 

^ THIS



Cleanliness is a huge part of engine assembly. I learned the hard way...

 

one of the engine mount nut is rounded off...any tips on how to get this sucker out..i've tried heating it...and it's too tight of a space to cut it off....

 

is it UNDER the engine crossmember???? come on.....I haven't stripped one of those ever...well at least not yet. lolz The previous WRX engine build (not mine) the owner stripped his. Poor soul....

How rounded off is it??? If it is, you're going to have to unbolt the engine mount from the engine. This requires a WRENCH to get the one between the engien and crossmember. The other bolt is easier because it's towards the front of the engine. Gonna be TIGHT!!! Need to take off uppipe, downpipe, turbo, possibly headers.