Well, PDE are finally back on the grid and fulfilling orders. These things are total carnography... Stuart.
After much haggling for a discount, considering they're untested on a GC chassis, I found that their margins on these are very small. As such, the price in the shopping cart is the price you pay. The price on the web page is out of date, as it went up a bit for the v2 ones. v2 have the hole in the cap so that they work with adjustable shocks. The website still shows the older style. http://www.pde-usa.com/index.htm Actually, it's closer to 32 different settings, and 31 of them are probably wrong ! Stuart.
These ones *are* for adjustable shocks, hence the hole in the top for the adjuster. I have no idea what size that nut is yet. Think of them as being digitally adjustable. The plate full of holes allows you to fix them in place, and know which holes will get the alignment where you want it. Each hole moves the strut a given amount, rather than having to nudge it a bit, tighten it, and find that it's slipped while you were doing the tightening, which can happen with the sandwich style plates. Stuart.
I like! I chose the RCE non lowering plates this time around, but will go this route if alignment starts to get difficult.
Somebody school me on my n00byness. So this things replace the top-hats up front right? And negate the need for pillow ball top-hats? And adjust caster as well? And can be used to make camber adjustments in the field pretty accurately, without needing to put them on the rack (once they've been initially set to a know setting)? Those look pretty slick if that's the case.
Yes, these totally replace the top hats, just like the Cusco or Noltec ones would. They can be set on '02+ cars to just move perpendicular to the car for camber only adjustment, or rotated slightly (see the second set of stud holes around the edge ?) so the adjustment will go a bit more diagonally. This reduces the ultimate amount of static camber that can be achieved, but increases the amount of caster. Extra caster gives you more dynamic camber, i.e. more camber as you turn. OK, here's my plan: 1. Go see Jeff, and set the car up for AutoX with as much camber/caster as we can manage. 2. Set the toe out to whatever I decide on. 3. Mark that hole ! 4. Reduce the amount of camber/caster until front toe goes back to 0 for a nice tyre friendly street setup. 5. Mark that hole. 6. Switch freely between both settings by selecting the right hole before and after AutoX events. Bye for now, Stuart.
F-ING-BRILIANT! I believe I found my camber plates So, I'm thinking this will be my suspension setup (in time). These camber plates koni inserts ground controls (spring rate for auto-x and don't give a damn about street comfort?) front and rear whiteline swaybars with endlinks (22mm adjustable in the rear) whiteline quick-release rear strut top back rear camber bolts rear top-hats (which type/brand is best?) Anything else I need?
This apes my list of mods quite closely. What class do you plan to run in ? I'm fairly well versed in the STS/STX rules at this point. There is a whole slew of stuff missing from this list, though, if you want to go really crazy, even in ST*. Stuart.
I'm not sure. I'm used to the days of only having the option of being in sp (before they made the change to st in what year was that again? 2002 or something). Either way, I'm not as well versed in classing as I used to be. I know I'm missing a bunch of various bushings. What else do I need to hit? I'm guessing I can still be in street touring though. I think I'm going to do the easy suspension stuff first (sway bars), go stage 2, then do the harder suspension stuff last (konis/gcs, camber plates, top-hats, bushings, etc.). I'm trying to be a little easy on the wallet, so I'm trying to go the less expensive >> more expensive route. So I just upgraded the brakes, tires are next, then sway and strut bars after that, and so on.
