i have an 02 wrx and recently i noticed ticking sound. it comes at right about 3k rpm and gets feint as the rpms climb. gear 1 and 2 are the worst sometimes in 3 i cant even hear anything. i took off my cat back exhaust to quiet it down a bit to monitor if it gets worse. im running 10w30 oil. so what do you guys think it is? valve tick? piston slap? spun bearing? rod knock?.... maybe detonation? but i think thats less likely although it did start shortly after i stopped in to get some gas when it was just about empty. mods: catless DP cat back catless up-pipe 95k miles and rarely mashed on. what do you guys think it could be?
piston slap thats all i can think of...I am sure others have a better answer..I know my car ticks and thats what it is.
Definately NOT piston slap. If it was piston slap, you'd likely hear it at idle and it'd go away after the car was warm. How long have you had the Catless up/dp/etc...? Do you have any sort of EM or tuning? The stock WRX fuel system in conjunction with a free flowing exhaust will likely cause much leaner conditions. Possibly problems over time. But not certain that would cause it. Might want to get a stethoscope on that block and see if the ticking is coming from the block and from where. If you haven't had an oil change in a while, you might want to try that. The valvetrain is commonly very noisy. Also, I'd run a 5w30 oil in that engine if I were you. If you are really concerned about good oils, go pick up a couple jugs of Shell Rotella T 5w40 from Walmart. It's a full synthetic and has great wear properties. Especially in colder months. A thinner oil will move around better in the engine during cold starts and such. Oil change, and if you can, collect your oil in something that you can view it in. Look for metallic particulate in the oil. You can do this by scooping up some oil from the bottom of the collection bucket with a cup, then pouring it back into the bucket while shining a flashlight through it. If it sparkles, you're likely ****ed. Any metal particles you see will likely indicate a borked bearing in the block. If you don't see metal particles, fill the oil back up and fire it up. Let it run for a few minutes, and see if the sound is gone. All subaru motors are noisy on cold start up. Wait till your dummy temp gauge is all the way to the operating temp position, if the sound is there, you may still have a problem.
changed the oil already with a light on it; its all clear no metal. no EM had the mods on for a month if that. i put 10w30 in it hoping to give my bearings a little float... because i fear its rod knock.
well a catless exhaust on a 2.0 wont blow it up, its not optimal though, you should let one of us listen to it, subarus arent generally the quietest engines, but alot of us have come to know the sounds they make.
When my car was new to me I noticed some ticking, and with the use of a long screwdeiver I listened to various areas and found it was the injectors clicking on and off. these make a decent ammount of noise which is drowned out at higher rpm's.
its time for you to get your t-belt replaced, while you are in there ide look at the timing belt tensioner, we sell at least 3 a day, its common
Clinking sound could be coming from bcs if its loose or does not have rubber gromet. If its detonation that's bad, but you could easily figure out if its that by logging your car. Easy way to tell. You need em if you have exhaust. Don't buy oxi(sp) gas it is bad for the car. My car knocks like crazy everywhere if I get gas from SA. And do the t-belt. While you are at it do water pump, oil pump seal and if you see any oil around cam seals do them too.
taras, please leave the advice to people with more experience, you dont want to give him the wrong info, oh and i'm speaking in general, most of your post is correct, accept for the gasoline part, its not the ethanol that messes with your car, its the other detergents
Is there anything wrong about my advice? Emily is giving people advise and she just got a subaru. So STFU and mind your own $hit!
Oxygenated gas isn't bad for cars. Jesus, where do you come up with this stuff. Almost all fuel is oxygenated these days. Waterpump? Oil pump seals? If they aren't leaking, leave them alone, no sense in replacing things that aren't likely related to your ticking sound. Cam seals if they are leaking is kindof a given. And it is highly doubtful that the BCS grommits are the problem. Like AWDL said, stay out of the help threads.
Yes, there is plenty wrong with your advice. And you and Emily are in the same boat as far as I'm concerned. Just because you can log an ECU doesn't make you knowledgable. I could teach a 6 year old how to log a car. It doesn't mean he knows what he is talking about with regards to the car.
definitely want to narrow down where the noise is coming from. take a large screwdriver, socket extension, ratchet, etc. and hold your fist over the end of it and put your ear on your fist. then you can put the other end in different places on the motor and listen for noises. pretty hard to do it at higher rpms, and impossible to do it under load, but you still might be able to hear something just at idle. and you'll be able to identify exactly where it's coming from. check the accessories (power steering pump, alternator, and A/C compressor), and the tensioner pulley for the A/C (put your "stethoscope" on the bolt in the center of the pulley). then a few places on the block, one on each head, and a couple places close to the center of the motor.
Good call on the powersteering/alternator/ac pullies, if those are out of whack, they will make lots of noise at higher RPMs. And also agreed on the low RPM stethoscope deal. The audible sounds might not be as loud at low RPMs to the ear, but if you get in there with the steth (or scredriver) the ticks might be noticable. Has it gotten any worse since you first posted? I know when my 22T block started ticking, it was low at first, but after about 6 more miles of driving it was really bad. At first I thought it was something just rattling around, but it became evident that it was engine related once I got the car in the garage.
Hugs are free, and no, you can't log or protune it. It doesn't really have any settings that can be altered.
Readymix D-bag and you will have to live with it. I dont give advice if i did not go through a problem related to it. And please just put me in your damn ignore list.
Sorry, I read your post in here because I care about the original poster since he is asking advice to an engine related issue. I don't trust your advice, and after reading what you posted, it further cemented my views on it. What does that even mean? Proofread your posts, retard. That makes no sense. If I am a D-Bag, that is your opinion. I'll deal with your opinions the same way I always do, but realizing that retards never have legitimate opinions. When someone I give a damn about has an opinion about me, I'll be sure to listen. Really? You had mechanical knock in your engine and replacing the water pump and oil pump seal fixed it? This guy is likely having rod knock. Which a water pump or an oil pump seal wont fix. Nor will a cam seal leak. Why would he want to go digging into those areas for a problem that will likely not have anything to do with those things? Oxygenated gas is bad? Then why is it that I've run oxygenated gas in every single tank that I've run through my car and I've NEVER had an issue? Any guesses on that one, genius? Probably because you have no clue what you are talking about. And this guy is getting ticks at certain RPMs, how on earth would a BCS being loose have anything to do with it? If a module is rattling in the engine bay, it would likely rattle at all RPMs. It could cause rattling, I'll give you that, but why not go for the more pressing issues, like potential rod knock. You don't know what you are talking about, you give dumb advice. That is that. And if that makes me a douchebag, so be it. I'd rather be a douchebag and give good advice, then be the benevolent retard giving stupid advice. Again, GTFO of tech advice threads.
Actually, I just finished a battle with a sound in my engine that sounded exactly like a bad timing belt tensioner and was very similar to rod knock in terms of the ticking noise. It ended up being a combo of my GM BCS and a failing timing belt tensioner making the sounds. In my case, it was between 2k-3.5k rpm and at VERY LIGHT throttle positions.
The timing belt tensioner was already mentioned though, and I would imagine that would have been the problem that was likely making all the noise.
You are an idiot. You have a comprehension problem yourself. Someone made a comment about T-belt and i said that while doing that he should do the seals too because they are prone to leaks. And i did not make that up i have read about this on NASIOC. BCS if makes a clicking sound if rubber grommets are not used. And only when you are in boost. Oxy gas with a certain tune does make a difference. My car knocked badly with the gas from SA and did not with BP gas. Keep your comments about me and my knowledge to yourself. Go post in "Taras Thread".
BP gas is oxygenated. Just like pretty much every gas pump in this state unless otherwise noted. And 100% of the cars rolling off the dealership lot are tuned to accept the oxygenated gas they pump. And while the pumps and such are prone to leaks, they don't need to be pre-emptively replaced. And why go through all the trouble of removing all that stuff if that isn't where the problem likely lies? If the dealership is replacing his timing belt then they will take note of any possible leaks and inform him as such. His concern should be finding the problem he has NOW. And that is the ticking sound. Which is more than likely either a timing belt tensioner or some sort of internal bearing failure. Those are the likely culprits, and should be the first places he looks. Not oil pumps, not water pumps, not BCSs. He can continue to pump oxygenated gas, because he doesn't have EM and can likely continue to use it since his car was meant to run standard premium gas from the pump. While he's in there he can check for leaks on those things, but if they aren't leaking, why bother replacing them?
When you can make a thread that doesn't contain brutal spelling errors and poor grammar, and can make an intelligent response to a thread, then I'll CONSIDER allowing you to call me an idiot. And even then, looking on your past history of failure around here, I'll probably still deny you. There are people here that can call me an idiot, you aren't one of them. For now, I'll just direct everyone to your WMC thread if they need any information as to why you are such a toolbag. I have the pavlovian response to your posts, and that is, whenever you post, it is likely going to be stupid. Because in the past, every post you make is full of fail. Until you have proven yourself to me, you wont recieve a bit of leniency from me with regards to your posts.
It wasn't on my car. It was the BCS that was making the majority of the racket. We replaced the tensioner and the sound was still there....pull the BCS and drive for a few days without it and the car is dead quiet. However, if the OP is running the stock BCS (which I'm guessing is the case), then I doubt this is the problem. The GM unit makes a ton more racket than the stocker. I'm going to guess it may be the tensioner since they are prone to failure. If the OP has rod knock, the engine won't last much longer or would have already died.
Sounds like a comment made by an idiot?:roll: And btw, he(Tom) has a stock bcs. Also has had the stage 2 stuff on for awhile now while running the stock EM.
He said his only mods were the up/dp/and cb. And what were you doing last night? We went to Bogarts in AV to watch Jess (from MTKA parts) band play there. We got him to say "Now bend over girl, and use them things like a broom and sweep it." (he didn't say the real line because I guess he has morals.)
yea ive been out of boost. i think im going to go another route as far as EM most likey a cobb AP. thanks for all the advise guy. ill grab my steth here in a minute and start probing around. i do know i have a bad tensioner that whines like a a jet, what i didnt know is that it could make a knock noise. ill definitely look into it. worse comes to worst ill drop the pan and see if i can find any jewels. again thanks for all the advice thus far, keep them coming. oh and give taras a break hes just trying to help
no no no, the timing belt tensioner, its under the timing cover, but the AC tensioner pulley can make noise too, try taking the ac belt off ( it wont hurt anything) maybe you'll be able to hear the other noise more clearly
Dropping the pan can be a royal pain. It is near impossible to get at the aft bolts on the pan while the motor is still bolted to the crossmember. I know a couple people that have managed it, but it is a complete pain. Easier to remove the block, or at least lift it from the engine bay to get at it. If your tensioner is bad or making noise already, then I wouldn't be surprised if that is the cause. Might want to just replace that anyway. Especially since you are due for a timing belt. I wouldn't be surprised if that was the problem. And I doubt you'll find any jewels (lol) in the oil pan if you didn't see any sparkley bits in the oil last change. And the reason we give guys like Taras a hard time is because if left unchecked, then you get a bunch of people tossing out bad advice. If you have to ask a question about a problem, then bad advice can sound just as reasonable to you as good advice. Go check with the stethoscope, but I'd say the best thing to do after that would be to take it in and get the timing belt and tensioner replaced. The belt is due, the tensioner is making noise, and odds are, the rattling is the tensioner.
Hey 3rik, Mike Wray just replaced a bearing on my car the other day. Alternator? Fan? Don't remember what it was, but it was cheap to replace and reduced my engine bay noise dramatically. Did the belts also.:biggrin:
yeah the ac belt tensioner pulley, its something like 30 bucks with the mnsubaru discount ( i'll check monday) its very common, the timing belt tensioner is right about $120 i think? again i'll check monday when i get to work
BTW readymix, BP and shell usually have a sign that says their gas is non-oxy. And legendx says he is running stage 2 without em, the car probably runs lean and knocks. even before logging anything if the IAM is low you can tell that there was knock. I am fir sure not a professional, but i know at least this part because i was faced with this problem myself and fixed it myself as well. Another thing if the has a pre turbo leak that could cause lean conditions it could cause knock, like it was with my car.
if it was detonation it would probably have popped by now, its definatly not "knocK" its some kind of mechanical problem.
Only the stations that specifically sell non-oxy gas have non-oxy gas. The BP 2 miles from my house does not sell non-oxy fuel. I only know of a few BP stations near me that do. And near is used very loosely. There is one north of 694 on 35. One down 35 at exit 18 I believe, and there was one near B-ville, but I'm not certain of that, I'd have to ask Pete. Otherwise, all the other BP stations I visit have oxygenated gas.
True too. If its serious knock cel would most likely come up. He should record it on a camera and post it.
dont know where you live, but every bp station i filled up has a note on the pump that says non-oxy gas or some sort of other note about it.
Hey Taras, not to put you on spot but, BP & Shell sells oxygenated gas at all of their stations. Only a few stations sells them non-oxygenated, if labeled. Oxygenated gas is not bad for our cars. If I remember correctly, the 02 (maybe 03) wrx responded to tbe without EM better than 04+
Interesting, well, my experience is different. Both bp in st paul that i go to are non oxy one in St louis park that i go to is non oxy as well and one it Burnsville is too.
