He Guys, I just closed the other thread on Royal Purple and started this one...I got the info I need...(should have search on the web) :roll: Anyways, please post your recommendations, weight use, and any tips you have for Maintenance for your Subaru...Now start POSTING
In my car, whatever we have bulk here at the dealer...5w30 valvoline,but amsoil and only amsoil in my bikes (or kawasaki dino oil)
GC 0w30 & Amsoil ASL, not XL If you can find the green GC, that stuff is the good stuff I found 10 bottles at the autozone in saint paul (arcade st) and that was it...now they have the golden honey GC (which is still good)
I use regular dino oil. I usually try my best to get either valvoline or mobil, but in the end it's all oil. But my car is stock and at the most will be stage 2. I know some people swear by this brand or that synthetic, but I just feel that we've come so far in oil technology that some of the past concerns of crappy oil breaking engines just isn't there anymore.
Engine- mobil 1 syn, changed every 2.5 to 3K. Tranny (MT)- Scotty's Cocktail- Best mix ever! Had slight syncro issue with redline 75ns (whatever It's called). Last year I switched to Scotty's cocktail and now experience the best shifting ever! rear diff- regular mobil 1 gear lube
Went with m1 5w30 dino for the first 3 changes then switched to amsoil 5w30 synthetic. oem filter Here's my second to last oil analysis (first change to amsoil). tips for a dd: Get a fumoto valve and send in a few samples to blackstone to figure out your average change intervals. tips for Ray: Drive the car, its too well done not to be driven!
Synthetic in the engine.. DINO oil in the gearbox and differential.. (had synthetic - too thin damaged my diff) I run a Quaife LSD with Dino 75w90 with LSD additive... works perfectly
M1 in the engine. Not particularly impressed with Scotty's cocktail. Nothing bad to say about it, just feels exactly like the stock oil it replaced to me. Might make more of a difference when the temp drops, we'll see.
Mobil 1 5W-30 in the motor, Uncle Scottys in the trans. The cocktail made a huge difference in my car, shifts smoother and took care of a 4-5 momentary grind if I shifted around 70-75. YMMV
Amsoil seems to be quite popular around here, I honestly never even heard of it until coming to subaru. I guess I just never cared since my other car is a honda and would probably run like silk even if I put mississippi river mud in the damn thing. Does someone want to let me know if I've got a screw loose for my post above, or do a lot of you guys think like that as well?
you couldn't pay me to put full dino oil in a turbo car. I used to use valvoline synpower, used mobil 1 for a while, back to synpower...
Amsoil in everything but the coolant and PS fluid. As for the amsoil thing, when i used to ride alot, I started running the amsoil for 4-stroke motors in my wheeler. My oil temps dropped about 40 degrees just be switching to amsoil (over the honda gold synth). Once I put amsoil in my tranny my temps also dropped about 30 degrees. A 30 degree drop in a high stall auto tranny is a big deal. I also know that I run 8k or so on my oil changes and it comes out almost as clear as it goes in. Russ
I'll be making the switch to Amsoil 5w-30 ASL next change for warranty reasons. I hear nothing but great things about GC though. The bummer is the only place that stocks it is seems to not be doing that anymore. I'll be swaping out the tranny fluid with Subaru 75w-90 Extra-S and the rear dif with Subaru LSD in about 7,000 miles. As much as I ride my bike during the summer that could end up being early next year.
yeah, but why? I kind of like more frequent oil changes. Something doesn't rub me right about only changing the oil once every 8-10k. I'm by no means a staunch believer in one thing or another. I just know there's a lot of people who are, and I'm having a hard time finding or hearing about peoples engines or turbos blowing up due to an oil starvation issue (or whatever). But I've heard countless stories of people who've spun bearings from switching dino to synthetic. I don't know, I think I'll start doing some research.
Subaru is changing their definition of "severe duty" for all turbo models in 08. Now all turbo models will require oil changes at 3750 miles, synthetic or not. Most people on Bob's forum will agree that a good dino would be serve you just as well as a synth at that change interval. There's a few auto/bike makers out there that explicitly say no snyth for X amount of miles. Then there's auto makers that ship cars out of the factory with synth it in. The only real way you'll ever know what's good for your car is to get a UOA from a place like Blackstone Labs.
Bringing back the dead thread As some of you know I'm moving up to a FP16g, etc.... Is there any reason to consider a heavier weight oil in the engine? I've always ran M1 synthetic 5w30?
I run Shell Rotella T 5w40. It's a full syn. And the guy that recommended it did alot of oil analysis on numerous built Subaru motors. He also recommends running a 200:1 ratio of Marvel Mystery Oil to Gasoline in the gas tank. Not for the cleansing, instead it is to cool the crowns of the piston.
I use M1 full synthetic 5W-30 in the engine and a blend of Redline MTL and regular Redline in my trans, the MTL made a huge improvment. I change my oil every 2K. I realy think that other than the quicker draw up at start for synthetics there probably isn't a huge advantage unless you plan on changing your oil ar more than 4k intervals. A huge part of the reason I chage oil so often is for symplicity of schedule I just change the oil every time y car hits an even thousand number.
I see there is a lot of AMSOil love, here. I'm not an AMSOil lover... I run Castrol GTX Dino 5W-30 in the Legacy. It's always had dino, and at 14 years and 110k miles, I'm not changing to synth until I get a new engine. Tranny will be Neo Synthetic. My other car runs Castrol TWS 10W-60 in the engine and whatever the great German Engineers in the sky poured into the gearbox when it was made.
I have pretty much exclusively used Valvoline Synpower. I am not convinced that it is the best, but I have had zero issues in either the RS or the STi and the RS is beat on every time it is driven. As for the 3750mi oil change...BS....there is no data anywhere that supports that need and I doubt Subaru has done any testing to actually support that (look at all the oil analysis that is done at Blackstone and tell me how anyone can disprove that). I have run nothing short of 5k on both cars, but never exceeded 6k just because I am worried about the filter. If I didn't loose half the oil while changing the filter, I would probably go 10k (every other filter change) on the STi (the RS sits too long so that is why I change that oil as often as I do). Anyway YMMV (pun intended )
So dave everywhere I go all I see is the full sync mobil 1 gear lube, just wondering a few questions 1. What made you go with dino over sync? Is it for pure lubing reason aka sync is too thin? 2. where are you finding the non-sync stuff? I'm trying to figure out what to put in my rear diff.
ryan, I think last time I changed the rear diff I got the lube at either O'reilly's or checker. honestly, I can't remember.
Mobil 1 0w30 in the engine, Amsoil 75w90 SevereGear in the tranny/diff. My primary reason is for cold weather use. There's nothing better than synthetic and Amsoil has the lowest pour temp I've come across. The tranny's still not cold weather friendly. Nothing will help that. However, it's vastly better than regular dino. Shifting problems started around 40F with dino and shifting became basically useless by 0F until it warmed up some. Now it runs a good 30-40 degrees colder to get similar effects. The car will still start and drive in -20F temps. The engine still ticks like a mofo at those temps though. Shifting has been very good with the Amsoil gear oil, smooth and good syncro action. I've had Amsoil in the car 2 years now and it's been great every day. I get similar results with the Mobil 1 in the engine. I specifically use 0w30 for winter as it stays liquid in the worst of days. It's nice to have an engine that doesn't feel sluggish starting out on a sub freezing day. I had some minor oil loss issues during the first change, oil low at around 2000 miles and went to 0w40 at the next change to help, but after that, I went back to 0w30 and it seems to stay well now, even during the summer months. I don't have any complaints with either. I've been reading up on filters lately though, and it seems I may want to check out Purolator PureOne. http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html I've been grabbing a Baldwin filter every time I pick up some oil.
I run 5w-30 Valvoline Syn-Power for winter spring and fall but 10w30 Synpower for summer. It's cuz i work there and i get huge discounts haha
