I ordered some por-15, its an anti rust paint that is supposed to stop the rust if its early enough. Im not sure if anyone else has thought of this but I bought it for my rear wheel wells. The plan is to remove the wheels and to paint the inside of the well with the anti rust paint to keep clean rust free wells. I will post some pictures of the before/after plus steps so people can see how well it does or does not work. Any one else try this? Im going to give it a shot this weekend.
Besides grinding the rust away to clean metal, it's pretty hard to stop rust from continuing once it starts being that it's a chemical reaction. I would suggest doing this (grind) on any surface rust before putting the por-15 on. Anything beyond surface rust is pretty much too late to stop. Something tells me there's something in the paint to help slow the rusting down, but not completely stop it. Not trying to rag on your post, just giving you my $.02 I'm interested to see what this does though
you are right there sir! I suppose i mis worded it, its a rust preventative paint. I do not have anything beyond surface rust, so this is for people whose wheel wells are still clean. I bought a 25 dollar starter kit which includes a bottle of Marine Cleaner (degreaser),a bottle of prep and ready ( used after the marine cleaner I assume ), and a pint of black por-15 which is claimed to cover 6 square feet 2 coats (never 1 coat when painting something, always 2). the 6 square feet should be more than enough for both rear wheel wells. straight from the products website FAQ, found at www.por15.com MANY PRODUCTS CLAIM TO STOP RUST; SOME ARE PAINTS, SOME ARE CONVERSION PRODUCTS, SOME ARE RUST TREATMENTS. NONE SEEM TO REALLY STOP RUST PERMANENTLY. WHY IS POR-15 DIFFERENT, AND WHY SHOULD I BELIEVE IT WILL WORK ANY BETTER? Rust is caused by moisture coming in contact with metal, which causes a chemical action called oxidation. All paints provide a measure of protection for a while, but since they are eventually softened and weakened by moisture, it is only a matter of time before moisture penetrates the painted surface and attacks the metal below. All of the so-called rust preventive paints on the market (except POR-15) are weakened by exposure to moisture. POR-15 is strengthened by exposure to moisture. Notice the hardness of the POR-15 coating. It doesn't chip, crack, or peel like ordinary paints do, and its hardness will resist the wear and tear of every day life. My main interest in buying this was the claim of moisture strengthening paint, something I have never heard of painting houses, and to of course keep my wheel wells immaculate. Im going to do weekly and monthly checks too with pictures to see how well it really holds up.
like rhino liner? sounds better than por15 but I feel like you would want basically brand new metal so the metal isnt compromised at all and bonds better. how long have you had it on and how well is it working? I was thinking of adding some metal bonding paint additive ( an apoxy based hardener bought at sherwin ) just in case since im not worried about ruining the color.
This stuff works great. I used it on the front end suspension of my Datsun and the parts ended up looking brand new. I also used some that i had leftover for the very same reason you want to use it. I put some on the fender walls of both of our winter vehicles that were showing rust, its held up thus far, and I’m sure it hasn’t stopped the rust, but it sure has slowed it down a ton.
The paint part is very runny, so watch what you are doing when you are using the paint. It also doesn't like to come off anything. I use it primarily on seat rails when repairing those. I also used it on my old 2012 WRX when I rolled the fender lip(spot where the rubber strip comes loose).
Yea, I need to exactly exactly what you did to your 2012 on my 08, I've just been lazy. How did you apply it on you 12? Did you tape at the very edge of the inner side of the lip?
POR15 is freakin awesome. It's really thick, and soaks into the pores of any rust that wasn't removed and stops it from spreading. It's MUCH better than paint or bed liner. It's better than powdercoating, I've seen powdercoat get scratched, and the rust will spread under the coating and the coating will just flake off, but POR15 just stays sealed in, the scratch will rust, but nothing else. I hope you got Marine Clean and Metal Ready when you ordered the paint. As always, the prep is extremely important, and that stuff makes it so easy When I first built my light bar for my celica, I painted it with Rustoleum professional primer and black spray paint. It began to rust through in a few months. I pulled it off, sanded it down to bare metal, and painted it with POR15, and it's held up for years. Several road trips, a couple of them across the UP of Michigan in January following a truck/trailer/rally car (Sno*Drift). The color is fading (the website and instructions clearly say that it should be top coated....I never did), but there is zero rust on it now several years later. I cleaned up the rust on the rockers and wheel wells of my 4Runner with it. And I plan to do the same with the '96 Outback I picked up last fall. Ground to bare metal: and treated: and top coated with bed-liner: back bumper how it arrived: and POR15ed:
Yup, thats what i did to ben's inner fenders. Grind, clean, mask, por15, bedliner. Marine clean and metal ready are a bit spendy unless you get them in a kit. But yes, they do work just as well as most prep solutions. Ime, brushing por15 on works best for areas like the wheel wells or inner quarters. For an outer body panel or something like a light bar i'd rather spray it.
I always figured that if I rolled my fenders I'd be cautious and use a bit of POR-15 in there. I've heard it works really well!
Brushing always gets the paint to adhere better but spray provides that beautiful top coat. You can rent airless sprayers from sherwin for cheap if anyone is thinking of spraying lots of frame pieces. I know its just a typical non auto sprayer but itll be just fine. That Por15 toyota looks beast as a final product, hard to even imagine the first picture is what it even looked like. It makes me want to do the same and buy a cheap rusted suv/truck for pulling and por15 that bitch to new
I cleaned the surface then painters taped on the edge where the rubber came off only applying por15 to that edge. I did multiple coats. I didnt use the marine clean or other product.
I see, thanks for the info. Might be a dumb question, but how is POR-15 applied? Paint brush? lol Yea, the "blue stuff" works ok for some things, but I'll look into intertape. I'm also guessing that POR-15 doesn't dry very well in freezing temps.
Yeah, it can be applied by paint brush, just make sure its a brush you never want to use again. I've had good luck with the cheapo disposable foam brushes. Make sure to wear gloves, as its not going to wash off your hands. It can be found at Welle Auto Supply locally.
you can get inter taper at sherwin williams, although youll need to ask for it since its not usually on a shelf. its pretty cheap. My experiences with blue tape is it sometimes leaks even if properly scribed/pressed and it tears off in little bits. If inter tape is pressed properly onto a clean surface youll have perfect lines and the tape will pull off very easy. also, never slop paint onto the tape if you want perfect lines, slop it on the body and work it to the tape so your not overloading the tape with paint.
Make sure to wear gloves and even a face mask if your under the car. (had spots on my face and hands the last time I used it) This stuff takes forever to come off skin. but other then that I love the stuff. My boss likes to thin it out and use it in a paint gun.
Every use i have had with it has been with the cheap foam brushes that are a $1 each. They will be hard as a rock the next day, but paint is self leveling and wont look like you brushed it. My whole front end looks as smooth as the brand new powdercoat that is on the frame. Like said above WEAR GLOVES or this will be on your hands for weeks.
dang, sounds like this stuff is pretty tough and doesn't want to come off. Ohhh had I known...the pranks I could have pulled in college!
It depends on what the paints base is, oil paints can be painted in freezing temps. I would think por15 is oil based and can be painted in below freezing temps since its really sticky wet and very hard dry.
Came across this thread while Googling, which is nice! Is POR-15 still the way to go, or are other products better (example: KBS RustSeal or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator)? Some of the paint is chipped where a previous owner of my ‘04 FXT rolled them. It was not showing any surface rust until I got it back home to Wisconsin from out west. I figured I’d coat the rolled fenders with something and call it a day.
Sanding down rust and spraying over it still doesn't guarantee it won't come back. Especially in the humid summers we have here, once the process starts there's really no way to reverse it short of cutting off/replacing the panel. Once the metal is compromised you can only delay the inevitable.
I have painted my Jeep TJ frame with POR and seems to hold up well. Rust is a chemical reaction between Iron, Oxygen, and Moisture. If you believe the claim, POR isolates the Iron from both moisture and oxygen which halts the reaction. Now someone can tell me I'm wrong.
I still love the stuff. My 4runner still looks awesome (I will admit, it doesn't see road salt, but it's the oldest example I have). Rear suspension in my Celica was painted with it about 5 years ago, and saw 2 winters, still looks fantastic. They sell 6-packs of little 4oz cans, I ALWAYS have some around and use it fairly regularly. Anytime I have brakes apart, I paint the calipers with it. I bought an HVLP gun last summer specifically to paint the frame on my 4Runner with POR15. 20170708_153237 by Numbchux, on Flickr I replaced the trunk lid on my Celica last summer as well, the replacement wasn't in the greatest shape, anywhere where there was rust or bare metal, I primed with POR. At the same time I painted a metal flower pot holder of my wife's with it, still looks great. A couple years ago I bought their high-temp paint for the headers on my 4Runner, and I've since used it on other exhaust pieces with good results. I have 2 rusty Subarus that will be needing the rear subframe to be replaced in the next year. I'll be going crazy under there with the HVLP gun and POR15 on both cars. I bought a gallon each of Marine clean and Metal Ready (their prep products, I think the names have changed since then) when I first tried the stuff, and still have most of it. Great stuff. Just be aware, if it's in a visible place, and you care what it looks like, you'll want to top coat it with something. It turns dull and gray over time in the UV. Another tip. Put some plastic wrap between the can and lid when you reseal it, otherwise you'll have quite the fight getting it open again.
I used the POR-15 in a tube to coat the bottom seam of the tailgate on a Ford Escape that was showing rust. I was not very impressed with the longevity of the product. Once rust starts the only way to eradicate it is 5 gallons of gas and a road flare.
