I bled the clutch on my 1994 Legacy SS. I used the instructions located here as a guide but I didn't use the clutch fork to prime the system. Instead I gravity bled from the bleeder screw until blue fluid (Switched to ATE Superblue since I had it on hand) came out and then had an assistant pump the pedal a la brake bleeding. While using the pump method I noticed that the pedal would not return to the up position and we always had to pull it back up. I closed off the bleeder screw and had my assistant pump the pedal while I opened the banjo on the bottom of the slave cylinder to make sure that fluid went all the way through the system and tried again. Same result: pedal would stay stuck to the floor. However, when the bleeder screw was closed off and the cap was on the master cylinder I could build pressure with the pedal and it would return to the up position. Once I started the car I could get the clutch to engage/disengage with the pedal but when I released pressure on the pedal it would return to the up position, almost. About a 1/2 second later it would 'pop' up a little more. It engages and disengages fine but the 'pop' is a bit annoying. Is there something else I should try? FWIW there has always been a little slack and a slight 'pop' when using the clutch but it is now much more pronounced. Thanks, -Greg
this is interesting because i sprayed off my engine today at work and my clutch does the same thing now, releases a little more than half way and stops, then it pops like it gets stuck on something, but my clutch is cable style so idk if it the same thing. did you wash anything off or get fluid in the bellhousing through a ripped boot or something when bleeding the system?
Yeah mine also did this. Alldata says to bleed the master first using normal brake bleeding methods. You will just have to use your toe or hand to pull it back up once the valve is closed. Once you have no air coming out of the master move to the slave and repeat. Mine would partially stick right at the top and give that pop. With the new clutch and heavy duty PP i put in it moved the release point to where you had to push the pedal through the floor. So i pulled the cotter pin off the connection to the master cyl and unscrewed it a few turns until it released where i wanted it. This also solved the sticky pedal entirely. Just dont go too far or you will ride the TOB and it will make unhappy noises.
I had similar symptoms on my old 99RS at one point. My clutch would return most of the way, stick, and then pop the rest of the way. This ended up being a problem with the slave cylinder (return spring?) and required replacing it. The pedal not returning or building pressure during the bleeding process happened as well. It was bled well and no amount of pumping would create pressure. This turned out to be the seals in the Master cylinder. If they are old, and the clutch is bled, it can damage/rip/turn inside out (I'm not 100% sure which) the seals during the process requiring a new Master Cylinder. I replaced both and had a nice, firm clutch pedal with strong return.
Hmm. I waited over night and it's still sticking. Perhaps worse. Methinks I might be finding a new clutch master cylinder. I didn't see a bleed nipple on the MC. I bled it by loosening up the banjo bolt on the side instead. edit: After further review it looks like I've been bleeding the damper assembly, not the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder on my car is located on top of the transmission housing. This also happens to be right below my nearly impossible to remove JDM Slanty Intercooler. Damn, damn, damn.
