Prosport Triple Gauge Install

Discussion in 'Tech, Tips, Newb Info' started by Se7enrex, Feb 26, 2008.

  1. Se7enrex
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    Se7enrex Well-Known Member

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    Step 1...get ready for at least a couple hours worth of work, make sure you have plenty time and a nice open place to work.

    General Tools needed:
    socket set:10mm, 12mm, 14mm
    flat head screwdriver
    fillips head screwdriver
    soldering iron
    solder
    stretch rubber electrical tape(ace hardware)
    heat shrink for small wires
    wire clipper
    lots o' zip-ties
    thread lock/jb Weld

    Specific extras/tools:
    11/32" High speed steel Drill Bit
    1/8-27NPT 11/32" TAP

    Tools that might help
    A welder
    Extra vacuum hose
    zip-lock bags for bolts
    a heater for the garage

    ****Make sure you order the sandwich oil filter adapter from prosport for the fuel pressure/temp gauge*******
    Also you might as well change your oil while your at it...otherwise buy two quarts of oil to be safe
    Step 2

    Lift that dang car up in the air..plenty enough for you to monkey around and get comfortable under there
    remove the plastic skidplate...theres a couple bolts and poppy things on there..EASY

    OK...now we are gonna do the EGT gauge First

    Take off the upper heat shield on the drivers side header---it has 3 bolts, they are all 12mm

    then remove the driver's side portion of the header, i believe these are all 14mm bolts...there are 5 of them..2 on the connection to the crossover and 3 to the block

    pull it out and set it down...smile
     
  2. Se7enrex
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    Se7enrex Well-Known Member

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    Now you are gonna want to drill a hole 6" down the cyl.3...you want to do it on the outside the manifold..ie on the fender side there is a little circular tab...drill and tap it!(it is the exact size!)
     
  3. Se7enrex
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    Se7enrex Well-Known Member

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    Step 3
    Now you may choose to use threadlock or you may choose to weld...I did both!*****make sure you remove the sensor from the bung if you weld so you don't hurt it...just weld the bung!
     
  4. Se7enrex
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    Se7enrex Well-Known Member

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    Step 4

    re-install the header portion with the sensor removed(make sure the bung is on though....test fit the heat shield again and mark it and cut a hole in it where the bung is located so you can run the sensor and wire!

    Now I painted mine black to clean up the look and stenciled on EGT just so if anybody else climbs under there they know whats up...its just convenient!:)
     
  5. Se7enrex
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    Se7enrex Well-Known Member

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    Step 5

    Now..as far as the oil pressure goes you have two options...buy the sandwich adapter...or buy the plug that goes where the oil galley plug goes(which is located under the inlet to the turbo on the block...its a 1/8" hex bolt!--I chose the sandwich..its easier..a LOT EASIER!...

    so unscrew your oil filter and put the sandwich on(rubber side up touching the engine)-then bolt up a new filter(its basically a spacer....)

    The sandwich has 4 holes to use for what you will, oil pressure, temp etc.... and 4 block off bolts for what you don't use!

    Your oil sender will screw directly into one of the 4 holes!

    This unit WILL screw directly on and will have plenty of clearance to run the lines to...nothing will need to be moved or cut or bent!
     
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    Se7enrex Well-Known Member

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    Step 6

    The boost gauge wiring....cut a straight line on the vacuum hose that goes from the oem/aftermarket-diverter/BOV....install the T-fitting supplied with kit....install about 7 inches of vacuum hose off of the 3rd hole...place the little metal air filter supplied on the other end..then take the rest of the tubing and attach that to the other end of the little air filter...
     
  7. Se7enrex
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    Se7enrex Well-Known Member

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    Important

    NOW__IMPORTANT___

    STEP 7 RUNNING WIRES

    there is a hole about 2 inches to the left of the steering rack underneath the pedals on the floor of the driver's side foot well...rip that little piece of rubber out and it creates about a circular 1.5" hole...perfect for running wires to the engine...

    the hole pops out in the engine right below the brake booster!

    ****I tried running wires through the engine a million different ways...do what you are comfortable with..try to keep all of them away from hot stuff(obviously!)

    Step 8

    Ok.....Rip your dash apart NOW!!!!! Don't break anything!

    start the snaking process...NOTE: it helps to run a wire Down and tape it to the leads and drag it all back up through the dash so that you are not trying to push wires up through....
     
  8. Se7enrex
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    Se7enrex Well-Known Member

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    Step 9

    Now You probably already have put the gauges in the pod(I have an ATI) so flip them around and look at the back

    each gauge has a power hook-up on either side of it(so two per gauge) This is so you can Daisy chain the gauges together and only have to tap once for power...not 3 times!!!

    Then on the last gauge take the supplied power cord that has 4 colors that are raw wire on one side

    The colors will be black, white, orange, red ( for amber/white gauges)

    or

    black, white, green and red(white/green gauges)

    Take the leads of the wires and connect them to the back of the gauges!

    NOTE: You are probably like" hey, how the hell do i connect the vacuum hose...there is a solenoid included in the kit...plug the vacuum hose on one end and mount the damn thing where you like....then connect the sensor to the back of the gauge with the others!
     
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    Step 10

    Time to wire that power......

    so here is the run down on wires....it is 100% correct

    PROSPORT--SUBARU CLOCK WIRING
    Black--Black
    Red--Blue with Red stripe
    Orange/Green--White with Red stripe
    White--Yellow with Blue stripe

    Then solder and wrap and heat shrink and cover it safely....DONE

    Now put it back together and enjoy!:biggrin:


    ***** Video of them in my car on youtube*********....
     

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