Ultimate power has little to do with it, and everything to do with it. Honestly, a great tune involves a dyno tune, then more tuning on the road, then more tuning on the dyno, then back to the road. Timing can be done on the road, but you can do it faster and get closer to optimal on a dyno. Then you hit the road and its all different, and you make adjustments. OEM's spend months and several continents tuning their cars. The more you can vary the conditions while tuning a car, the better.
If you're serious and not drunk: A "tune" is a "tune" doesn't matter how it happens. Google those terms because it sounds like you don't know what they mean???? Also google what "wheel horsepower" means and how different "dynos" can give different readings.
LOL. Cars pro tuned on dynos grenade on tracks, and road tuned cars can perform poorly on a dyno. You cannot replicate all conditions on a dyno, and there is no way to find an optimal calibration without a dyno. It is what it is.
ORLY.... Check my out my dyno sheet at rs motors yesterday road tune by NUKE http://mnsubaru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34822&page=17
I'm no turner but I will agree with Piddster. I've had cars dyno tuned and I find issues on the track. Than we road tune the car and we get to the dyno and the car needs some more tuning. The dyno cannot replicate real road conditions, but is suppose to keep you legal while doing it. The question most owners often don't get is what are your intentions for your car? Are you just looking for a tune to just optimise your new mods or are you looking for a tune that will give you the best performance for your driving style and the demanding conditions you put your car thru, like say a road course where you utilize a board power band and need more than one gear to tune and are often upshifting and than downshifting.
I pretty much agree with most of what folks are saying in this thread. A car tuned in one situation (ie on the dyno or on the road) can hit different load cells when it is moved to the other. However, a good tune should tune all cells so nothing bad happens when those cells are hit on the road (accelerating up or down a hill, for example). OP, are you asking which one is better? A dyno is a tool that can better replicate specific conditions, so it is easier and better to do fine tuning with that tool. However, a dyno cannot replicate the exact conditions of doing a pull on the road (no airflow for the IC, for example). When road tuning, you can test the exact condition's the car will see every day. Both tools can produce a good, safe, and powerful tune, but it is my opinion that all dyno-tuned cars should do a pull or two on the road to ensure they do not overboost or underboost.
Lol, thanks Nuke. "Can" does not mean "most" or "always" or "do." More like it is a possibility. For instance, Derek's car was doing quite well on the road, but on the dyno yesterday the turbo was not acting like it usually would. In the end, it comes down to patience or cost. Most people aren't willing to pay someone to spend days tuning a car. Most of the cars here that can use Romraider have it easy. All the little stuff is taken care of like various compensations for temperature, pressure, and other enrichments. Starting from scratch with a standalone is bit more involved and can take a while to get the last 10%, and will cost a lot if you are paying someone to do it.
i am an example of this. mine was road tuned worked great on the road no knock all systems go. got on a dyno and got knock up top killing my 300hp goal just short of the goal line
Vangsta...What were your readings on the road tune?...if you don't mind sharing. And TRUE road conditions count more to me.....i like reality not THEORY:laugh:
Are you implying that the car didn't reach its maximum hp/tq? I will agree it sounds mean on the streets for the little i heard it.
LOL Pheng knew nothing of his car That was the first time he had really seen his car ever since we've been working on it. :laugh:
The garage was rich of exhaust fumes. That hurts performance some. On the street, fresh air all the time besides engine heat. But it is what it is on the dyno at that boost level you see on that graph. Better boost control and you'll see a bump in HP up top.
