I'm wondering inf there is someone that knows the just around getting this done and the risks. I've went to a few and called a few body shops and all they say is "If the paint cracks, its not on me." And, now I know some people but they have lives and are super busy... I hate driving my car right now because I'm screwing up the side walls... I want to just drive this damnn thinggg.....
doing it in winter increased the chances of cracking the paint 10fold...ask me how i know...my best advice. dont roll them unless your absolutly sure thats the route you want to go now and in the future. Also if you do it what i reccomend is you then clean up the rolled over fender area with pastic dip or roll on bed liner. i wish i had done that to mine straight away and not waited to do it.
You aren't going to be able to bend automotive paint at a 90 degree angle without the paint cracking. If it was freshly painted with flex additive you might stand a chance but that eventually hardens too.
I'm a body man, and I agree with most up here: The paint will crack. My advice is roll 'em over, scuff the entire lip good with a red scotchbrite pad, tape the visible edge (outside of the fender/quarter), and hit 'em with some roll-on bedliner. Oreilly's sells quarts for about $15.00 that is ready to apply/no mixing. Brush it on, roll it, whatever. Let the paint crack, save the tires. Just my thoughts.
I would use Por 15 over bedliner material. Por 15 is a rust preventer and stops rust even if you paint over the rust with it. It also gets rock hard and is really tough. Paint the back with Por 15 and then role them over and then mask the edge of the fender and paint more Por 15 along the edge and over the rolled material.
Starkall, though Por 15 is fantastic material, it is recommended only for corroded metal, not clean sheet. Por 15-type rust converters are not recommended as a top coat, either; they are a primer and need other paint applied over them. The reason for the topcoat is that primer is porous and will absorb water allowing corrosion to set in.
If the over-sized rims and tires are sexy enough they will divert people's attention from the rusty wheel arches. Anytime you violate the finish on a daily driver in our climate you are just asking for rust to start. Narrower tires or different wheel offset are the best solutions.
it says on the can you can apply it over good metal but need to scuff first, and says that you can top coat it if you want to and to apply Por 15 in 2-3 coats. It stops rust that has started and prevents it as well.
Starkall, the only time Por 15 is any different than any other primer is when it is liquid. That's when it is "working". Does it prevent rust? Sure, as much as any bomb-can of primer will. By covering up the metal and slowing down corrosion. It's still just primer. Nater, have fun. Remember: big is better. If you're not rolling on 30's, then this entire conversation has been pointless. LOL
the wheels are on springs, and volk wheels. so the Car is lowered. I'm wondering if there is other ways instead of rolling the vender... Are there ways to offset it, change it somehow? The new rubber I put on I got with purchasing the car (had to get them put on the tires) so I didn't choose the rubber. This is how close it is and you can also see the wear in the rubber on the side wall (only in the rear its happening).
Honestly unless u love the rims and are oppossed to getting rid of them you could sell that rim tire combo for a small fortune and buy urself another rim and tire combo and then some. Either way the tires are not the proper size for your car.
it states right on the POR 15 can that it only needs to be top coated if it is exposed to direct sunlight for long periods. And being the inner fenders won't see direct sunlight it will be fine.
Nater, what kind of alignment are you running? What adjustments (beyond stock) do you have available? Some options are: 1) run more negative camber in the rear (you'll want to zero out toe. You can't do that with stock hardware.) 2) run different rear springs that ride higher (they might still rub depending on travel, spring rate, and how big of a bump you hit... is it safe to assume you're on stock struts and bumpstops?) 3) run different tires. Can't see your pic too well, but are those 215/50? 4) run different wheels that don't sit so close to the body 5) roll rear fenders If you choose option 5, it's possible to clean up rolled fenders. Ask xluben how his are holding up. It's been almost a year since I cleaned, primered, and coated them: like I told him though, it's not going to last a lifetime and you should check on it periodically.
Yeah I had mine rolled to run a 17x8" +28 offset wheel setup with 235 series tires. I had the fenders rolled and the paint cracked. Sheen's touch up has held up well so far. I might get the fenders rolled flat next summer so they may need more work, but it seems to be good for now.
That's my next purchase, I had my fenders rolled slightly, they didn't crack but he didn't roll the very back edge where it meets the bumper so I'd get a slight rub on hard bumps there. Well yesterday my buddy and I used the old school technique, a baseball bat and heat gun. I have to say that I got the back part rolled damn near flat and it didn't crack the paint at all. It actually worked better than the fender roller. I just had him push on the outside of the quarter with a dolly wrapped in a towel and I slipped the bat in between the tire and the fender and worked the lip up flat slowly adding heat. And also used a jack to get the tire and fender gap perfect for leverage on the bat.
I rolled my rear fenders on my 03 wrx myself in the summer and the paint looks perfect and it was not a flat roll but the lip of the fender in pointed "upwards" so it was about a 90 degree bend with a small channel left between the lip and fender body for drainage. I heated it up a lot and used a professional fender roller and took my time, 4 years later it looks great still!
