jim hello all, i kept hearing road noise coming from back of car and thought i found it when i noticed pass rear shock seemingly coming up through wheel well (see pic). however, i didn't notice any actual issue w shock upon inspection. also, it doesn't make any clatter or wheel noise when driving, so i don't know what it could be? this is on my 99Outback and probably original shocks...thanks for any advice! jim
ps you can open plastic molding and see shock but i don't think shock can be going out if i can do 70+ w/o any vibration?
How bouncy is your car over a moderate bump into flat road? I recall once my suspension was pretty much shot in a previous car and the rear would feel all bouncy like how how these guys like to bounce their hydraulics: Don't know which happened first but when I replaced my suspension one of the rear springs cracked (either it failed then the shock or the the shock then the spring). Either way if your suspension is original to the car I wouldn't be surprised if it was failing considering it would be 20 years old. Plus the road salts aren't kind to springs and eventually you get enough chips/scratches in the wheel wells that they will start to rust.
That's just moderate "wear" at this point (shock coming through the spring tower). When the shock starts hitting against the roof inside, it is time to replace.
ha! i would go outside to check the molding on the spring tower if it wasn't so darn cold! i have a feeling the molding may be just coming loose and it has nothing to do with the shock??? thanks, jim
I'm curious as to why the plastic cover has come loose. Usually interior trim panels like that need a crowbar to get them off and then 75% of the plastic locking tabs break.
yeah, me too. my latest theory is that i hit a major pothole (cant really remember but it's possible?) and it jarred the shock/spring enough that it knocked the plastic cover loose but it wasn't enough to wreck the shock completely. i don't know if that's possible but i'll stick with it for now...thanks for the input!
okay fellas, i have struggled with this for a couple weeks and think i finally found the answer (i'm trying to use logic, with zero mechanical skills i can no longer latch my seat up as the latch is waay off now. after trying the BFH and discovering the latch is attached to the strut assembly and won't budge, i decided to look at the alignment with the wheel and it definitely is towed in at the top! something, somehow as broken and i don't see how it can be fixed w/o major costs, far more than this rusted 99OB is worth i will have my wrench check it out but unless its like $500 or less i will have to part with "old Bessie". if i have to sell the engine, i will post it here as it is a good one that just had HG and valve job done last year...not to mention the brake job too! i guess until i get this fixed i should slow down from 70+ to no more than 60
Yeah... I'd say your suspension is probably fine. Unfortunately the car that it attaches to is not. Haha.
finally got the tire off and discovered the spring broke! i was kind of thinking it could be that as the front pass spring broke on same car 5 years ago. i will take it to mechanic when he gives me the go-ahead, he always has a waiting list, to see what the damages are...pretty much stuck with this car for foreseeable as i could no way replace it for equally reliable vehicle for less than $2000...
You can get some pretty sweet deals on old(er) Subaru's for around that price point. Might be a safer alternative? Otherwise, roll 'er till she totally dies. Haha.
my luck, i'd get one that needs a headgasket! at least that is the one thing i know this car doesn't need. she drives great and i was hoping to crack 300,000 miles before i put her to pasture
well, to bring some closure to this thread.., i just finally got the word that the strut tower rust issue is not fixable. i was thinking if i could find a welder i could have it patched but this video indicates that wouldn't be possible. oh well, she had a good run! if interested in a very good motor that had a recent hg job and valve job, plus addnl items like new brake assembly, etc pm me or keep an eye on the classifieds.
Safe 300,000 mile cars and Minnesota road salt are almost virtually exclusive (there will always be exceptions to this). I'm glad you didn't/couldn't fix it as that is close to a catastrophic failure waiting to happen at highway speeds and the possible collateral damage that can occur to other motorists is grossly unfair to them and would be irresponsible on your part.
hey Krazylegz, at first i thought you were crazy but i'm starting to rethink your idea. after putting the figures together, i could have made a $277/mo payment towards a Nice Car rather than my POS car for the last year and half since i dropped a bundle on her! too much to beg for someone to come get it and pay me scrap price for sure, so i have started the search for any welders here in Rochester that might be game for a project. driving around the last two days in my 02 Protege i picked up, granted in very nice condition, terrified i will wipe out if i push it much over 50mph has me crying over the loss of my OB...thanks for the inspiration and will keep you posted on the outcome jim
Call me a hillbilly, but I'd totally rock something together back there if it was a dedicated winter beater. But I like a challenge and also doing things that most people would say shouldn't be done. Have some fun with it. Otherwise, find one that maybe has a better body but needs a motor. Would be a total win win to make one good one out of two.
here's another disturbing video. the guy was sold a new set of rear struts 6 mos before his strut tower went out! geez, this video makes it seem like a lost cause