So..I have an auto with 20g, 785 ur injectors, aps tmic, perrin fuel rails...etc. When I am in second and accelerating hard up into the high revs of 2nd, if almost feels like fuel cut. It sputters. Like a slow rocking motion. I had a p0340 the other day, but it just did it(slow rocking) and thers no cel returning. I have the sensor and plan on changing it. But, would this sensor cause that? Or could it be something else? Its really annoying. Could I be "out of tune"? Its a jorge tune from last years dyno day. 02 wrx wagon. Thanks, - Justin K.
If its det, what would be the causes? Intake temps, not a cool enough charge? I do have to clean my air filter and change my pcv. My dp/up aren't wrapped or coated. Any of these things attributing to det? Could it be something mechanical? I have an smc injection system, but I haven't installed it. I imagine that would deter det. Wouldn't I get a flashing cel from det? Or a cel in general? Thanks, - Justin K.
Detonation would sound like BB's hitting a tin can, or if bad, BB's rattling in a tin can. Could be caused by lower octane gas, and high IAT's. What did he tune, AP or UTEC?
There was no bb's or noise...just the slow rockin motion. Like I was out of gas or something. Its an AP tune. Thanks, - Justin K.
Sounds almost like a boost oscillation. Do you have a boost gauge? If so, it will wave back and forth when you would feel the surging.
I have a boost gauge.......but it stopped working a while back I can plug in my AP and see if it does it again and watch for oscillation. I have noticed a bit of a whistle from my turbo. Doesn't seem to be the normal turbo whistle. I sprayed every line I could see dealing with he turbo with carb cleaner, and I had no change in idle. So, not sure if its a boost leak. But it only seems to do it, when the auto is accelerating hard in 2nd gear at over 4k. :-/ if I just floor it with it in 3rd, it doesn't do it. Hmmm...
Hrm. I think you need to get someone with a laptop to pull some logs...and get some gauges that work!! :eek4:
Yeah, tell me about it. Stupid autometer! I have the connections and a laptop with ecuexplorer. I only used it once or twice. Can that give me some data logs? I just got on it(car) in 2nd and nothing happened. Ran like normal :-/ hmmm...
I don't have a "tantric" cable just serial connections and the AP cable. It seems to be running fine now...maybe it was just a strange occurance. But, I think there's more to it.
yep might be a slipping clutch. Floor it in fifth gear and if it seems like the rpms are rising too quicly and the speedometer is struggling to catch up your clutch is on its way out.
I wasn't paying attention all that much until it did that. I could've hit the rev limiter for all I know :-/ if it happens again, then I know I have an issue!
So, gonna do that this week. One question...do I have to have the perrin recharge kit for the perrin big maf? Or can I use something else? K&n recharge kit? Thanks, - Justin K.
How fast do Subies go through plugs? Or better question might be, what is a good suggestion as to when to replace your plugs??? I have about 56,000 on my 04 with same factory plugs... Thanks!
Every 50k, so says the manual. Mine have 30k on them. And I run 92 and 110oct. That may take a toll on em. Not sure.
So, would anyone be able to give me some info if I posted some logs from ecuexplorer? I have some from a couple pulls Thanks, - Justin K.
not sure how to so that it makes sense...But basically, my car is pulling 10 degrees of timing under WOT, on 110oct. I havent changed the plugs yet though. gonna do that this weekend. Until then, I'm driving Miss Daisy.
Email me the log. If you're looking at a "knock correction" value, or something labled similar, I think you're reading it backward. Positive knock correction values are good not bad. I personally would put stock in the possibility of it being plugs. EcuExplorer would have a value called "Dynamic Advance Multiplier" It's going to be a value between 0-16. 16 means perfect. If it's between 14-16 I wouldn't worry at all. 10-14 then something is definately amiss, loose, torn, broke, etc. Less then that on that value and something MAJOR is wrong. Send the log off to [email protected]. The other thing to keep in mind Justin, is that P0340 is a camshaft position sensor error. If it's not the sensor, it could be the timing belt being stretched, the tensioners, idlers, etc. In short. If it is a cam timing issue, DO NOT beat on the car until you get it figured out. If you seize a idler, you'll throw that belt and launch the entire motor out the hood. If it's a cam timing issue with the sensor, it's throwing off your dynamic ignition timing which CAN cause detonation, and blow up the car!!!!
I'll send the logs off to ya. I only got the cam sensor code once. Since then, it hasnt returned. Even during the sputtering. The plugs should be here in the next day or two though. My ignition timing under WOT was in the mid to upper 20's. Thanks, - Justin K.
Positive KC can be bad as well, you have to cross refrence the actual KC with the map KC to actually see if there is timing being pulled. I had that happen, my IAM was at 16 the whole time my timing was all over the place. Bad tuning
well, Jorge was my tuner, so I imagine he's on the ball when it comes to my map. But, anyway, I just did a couple pulls, and my multiplier is at 15. I am guessing it's my plugs as well. We'll see once I change them. The logs have been sent Jorge. Thanks
I just took a gander. Maximum KC in the map is 10.5. You're running a solid 10. So as far as the map is concerned it's happy. See your emails for other info.
I installed my new plugs today. Everything is happy!!! No stutter, no hesitation, just rock and roll baby!!! My multiplierr is back to 16 as well. Thanks Matt & everyone else! I appreciate your help Jorge
