Hey everyone. I am looking to get a little more juice out of my daily driven '02 WRX. (I am close to 140k miles on the original trans and clutch and everything is SOLID) I do not want to greatly compromise reliability etc. so I think a "stage 2" 280-285hp style tune is what I need. I want a canned reliable setup that I do not need to think about without spending $1400. I do not want the car to get much louder than what it is. It sounds great now. I currently have a Prodrive Catback Exhaust and that is it. So my plan is to buy: *SSAutochrome or equivalent Uppipe $70 *Keep my Prodrive Catback Exhaust $Free *Cobb Accessport $600 *CEL eliminator $20 I realize that Cobb recommends a turboback exhaust for their 285hp tune but that would be too loud I think. Vishnu's 280hp tune only uses an up pipe but I don't like the idea of just the reflash. The accessport is cool for the price! So I think the Accessport can be tweaked by a Cobb dealer... Could I just do a dyno run and get my tune tweaked locally? Sorry if this is an ubernoob post but learn me on your experiences. Thanks, Chad
Best bang for what you want to do: up pipe(gut your stocker - free), downpipe(ERZ ebay brand 180) mated to your existing cat back, and used 02-03 accessport off of nasioc(450). Total $630. That will give you your 280bhp you are looking for while not compromising reliability.
Ewww, no matter what DO NOT buy SS Autochrome. They are pieces of sh!t.. I've heard and seen pics of their turbos running for 20 miles and SPLITTING IN HALF because they make the turbo by halves and just weld it together numerous times.
If you have 140k on your stock clutch and trans, ide reccomed you upgrade that first before any power mods.
You need a catless downpipe of somekind to be able to run Cobb's Stage 2 maps. With just the uppipe like you have mentioned, you'll only be at Cobb's stage 1. If you're worried about noise, you can always look at getting a shorty downpipe and leaving the stock 3rd cat on there as well as the resonator midpipe connected to your Prodrive axle back. You may lose a couple of HP that way, but it should be a little more quiet if that's what you're looking for.
doubtfull you'll be able to get that kind of HP without a downpipe, bite the bullet and get one, you'll love the sound
drinyth has a similar setup (prodrive axleback, stromung DP, AP, UP) and it sounds like the car that should've come from the factory, aggressively audible but not loud. face it, there are a lot of "loud" factory cars (any VQ35-based car comes to mind) you need the downpip. you live in minnesota! take advantage of the lack of emissions testing
Thanks for the responses guys! Now is this really true? My stock clutch and trans is still quite solid. No signs of wear or anything. I don't expect the clutch to live forever but I would most likely put a stock clutch back in from what I have read. Maybe this was bad info? Also aren't there alot of people running the stock 5sp with this modest level of tune? I suppose if I frag it I would do the RA gears and rebuild (also from what I have read). Driynth, Could I hear your exhaust sometime and get a ride in your car? Also, are you running the downloadable maps from Cobb or did you get yours tweaked? BlackDUBRX, I have heard about SSAuto**** before. They glue on their compressor housings and make alot of poorly designed stuff. I would NEVER buy a Turbo, Radiator, or Intercooler from them as I would not trust it. But a stainless up pipe is a simple part. They obviously copied another tuners design and had it mass produced in China. Is there another option you would recomend? Thanks guys, Chad
Sure. Where do you live and/or work? Send me a PM and we can work something out. I'm just running the standard downloadable 1.30 91 Oct. Stage 2 map from Cobb. Haven't gotten it tweaked (yet).
PM Steve-o about getting the dc sports flex uppipe. If I remeber correctly, they are fairly cheap also ($120ish). Russ
...my $0.02 I am running a catless stealthback on the STi and the volume differences were negligible, it is the muffler that will be the primary determination of sound volume. As for the clutch...it should not be moving at 140k with the stock clutch (I am assuming that is the original clutch). Getting 100k out of a clutch is pretty good, 140k is amazing in my eyes. You will fry that clutch if you go to the power levels you are talking about, no not because it is stock, because it is worn. I like the idea of gutting the uppipe, adding a catted dp (or cat in the mid-pipe) and adding the AP, that will leave you some cash to do the clutch before it decides to go...