Looking for some Subwoofer box. Would like ported/vented type. For TWO 12" subs. lmk what you got. Must still have the terminal connectors for the wires. note: If you want $60+ for your box then dont waist time pm-ing me. Not looking for high end boxes because my subs are just decent one.
Buying a generic sub box that isn't matched to your subs is like buying a 40R when you want to Rally Cross. You cut yourself short in a big way. I'd suggest finding out how much volume your subs like, along with the port diameter and length. Go from there.
Like i said my subs are not competition type and therefore I dont really care how it is. As long as its not those small slim ones for pickup trucks.
if you want to go cheap, mdf is not that expensive. just google plans for a sub box and cut your own.
Competition has nothing to do with what I said. A well matched box can make the cheapest subs sound great. A poorly matched box can make the best subs sound like ass. Do just a little bit of homework on your setup, then seek. That said, a sheet of .75" MDF, a box of sheet-rock screws, and a bottle of polyurethane wood glue works wonders. Or I can build you a professional quality box for $300.
For the heck of it, post up the subs you've got. Exact model numbers. I'll plug the specs into my calculator and see what the "best" volume for a box would be.
im pretty sure he said he wants a box that's less than $60 so i dont know why he'd waste his money on a custom box....plus a sheet of MDF is about $25 for a 4x8 sheet what kind of labor do you charge thats a little pricey and im pretty sure best buy or ultimate electronics builds custom boxes for cheaper than $300.......
they probably do, but the point being behind what he is saying is that the better the box matches the subs the better the sound quality. No two subs (different brands) will sound the same in the exact same box if you really are into sound quality since there is a ton of variables from sub to sub. Now i had a box for a 12" kicker square that cost me almost 500 bucks. yes i could have made my own for a lot cheaper, but when i'm dropping several thousand on a sub/amp combo i want the best bang for my buck. Now onto building a box, if you do a quick job, like i have before it probably cost me around 60 bucks to do, (screws,glue, wood) does it sound amazing-no, did it work-yes.
i used to have a 12inch type r and i switched boxes quite a bit i tried 1 sealed and 2 ported and the sub sounded almost the same everytime, so IMO box size isnt a huge deal for a daily driven car/sound system...just my.02
It wasn't an offer, really, more of a heads-up that a decent box takes a little work and some high-school geometry. $300 is a number that says hey, I don't really want to do it, but I will if a matched, quality box is desired. And yes, $60 or so can bring home the materials for a top notch box, without carpet. However, the technique, patience, planning, and equipment don't grow on trees. Kinda like people that build motors and work on cars. Weird.
Sorry guy. Could have helped you out last week. Disassembled and trashed one cause didn't figure I'd ever have subs that matched it again. piddster stated his point clearly, but OP doesn't want or need professional quality.
oh i didnt know piddster was professional grade subwoofer box builder sorry i guess i shouldnt have made assumptions....but yes anyways i also didnt know there were professional motor builders? i know there are professional engine builders...... like Thesnowman said Engines=Gas Motors=electricity
LOL, it was more of a relative comparison, but it is what it is. Motor, engine, whatever. Car guys tend to say "motor." Engineers that need to get out of the house split hairs on nomenclature. I'll buy a sheet of MDF and build a damn box if it would make people happy. I still have over ten yards of carpet left, and plenty of screws, even if its been a few years. I haven't forgot how to use the radial-arm saw.
There's a lot more math involved to designing a professional quality speaker enclosure than high school geometry, The driver (the subwoofer in this case) is a spring/mass/damper systems and has different characteristics for each driver (even for same model drivers). A vented (or ported) enclosure can be modeled as spring/mass system and it's how these two systems interact that give you different efficiencies at different frequencies in free space. Also the acoustics of your car have as much to do with how it sounds as the enclosure because it too is a mass/spring/damper system than interacts with the driver and enclosure system. That is still a very simplified model of the frequency response of a speaker, that's not taking into account other resonances in the enclosure walls or the sound waves bouncing around inside. Those effects are reduced from a well made enclosure with stiff walls and a shape that's not a cube. It's a freakin art to design a speaker enclosure and I know just enough to know how much i really don't know about it so don't go saying that the enclosure doesn't make a difference. Since i doubt you want to get into multi-variable calculus and differential equations, I would recommend finding a vented enclosure that is 0.75 to 2 cu feet (manufacture recommendations) internal volume with the port tuned at or a little lower (probably around 5 hz) than the resonant frequency of the driver to extend the bass shelf lower so it can play those lower notes. Generally a larger volume will yield you lower cutoff frequency but takes up more space in your trunk. If you want to make an enclosure yourself, I would recommend modeling it in WinISD (free software, google it), there you can see how different volumes and ports will effect how it plays different frequencies (how it sounds). Most of the time you want the frequency response as flat as possible, no bumps or dips. the type r is a pretty nice sub, i have one in my room right now and I drove it pretty hard last night for a couple hours putting about 800 watts of music into it, it can handle some abuse, the only thing is that it's not very efficient (low sensitivity), this is due to the high damping ratio, but still sounds nice. That was probably more than anybody wanted to know.
