hey. i am in the final stages of wiring this damn perfect power. (so close yet so far) i have intercepted teh signals from the PP and i have everything wired as it should be. when the PP units is plugged in teh car wont run. (makes horrid nioses and wont fire) whne i put in the short/cheater clip to bypass the PP the car runs perfect. so obviusly my problem lies in the PP unti itself. it is most likely the ignition settings. currently i am on mode 12:2 ignition advance and retard. but there are other signals like missing tooth, single ignition advance retard + fuel frequency, single ignition advance retard + road speed govenor, single ignition advance retard PWM fuel, and odd signal retard. does anyone have any clue what settig i should need to have? heres a diagram of how it is wired.
if i cant get this to work w/ the ignitors then my only other chioce is to use the crank sensor. if i use the crank sensor i cannot advance timing at all, due to the odd signal.
ok, you struck out with your TRIPLE post. Give people some time to visit the site, not everybody is a loser like myself and surf the board allll day.
Martin, Can you use a cam sensor instead of the crank sensor, or is that the same signal as the crank sensor? I guess i'm not up on the perfect power system so I don't know how it utilizes the sensor output.
it all depends on what kind of signal the cam sensor puts out. the crank uses an odd tooth pattern, which is hard for the PP to predict and thus there can be no timing advance. the signal to the ignitors however is nice, because they are square waves, which are easily predicted and can be advanced and retarded. the only way i could really tell if the cam sensor was an odd tooth signal would be to use an oscillispoce on it. i will have to look into this, as another option though.
I like how every one of your posts reads "Last edited by Dynapar on 33 Oct 2010" you sneaky time traveler, also lol @ 33 Oct
after several hours on the phone, and re-wiring my car............................wont start. it through a code p0304 p0303 (mis fire 3&4). and since then it hasnt started. so i am going to test my coil pakc, ignitor, and ecu. then regap plugs and hope for the best. if tha isnt it then i have a broken/grounded wire, that isnt suposed to be. looks like a long cold dark night for me. wish i had a ninja trick for wiring
Do you have some kind of map on your PP?? It should fire up, the only wire that was cut is the maf wire. I would check the pp before going into all your ignition stuff (if it runs with the pp bypassed). Russ
ITS ALIVE (for now). ok i checked my ignitor, coil, and ecu they all were A OK. so that ment it had to be a wiring issue. either someting was getting grounded or there was a broken wire or some other BS. after some thinking i undid some electircal tape that i used to hold the spliced MAF input to another wire (which i now know is its shield wire) so the wire must have grounded itself through the shield. tried it and it fired right up. now i am gonna insulate those wires, and finish soldering in my ignition (for the 80th time). know i need to figure out why the car dies at idle occasionally when running a map on the PP. i think it may have something to do w/ fuel trims. cause its enough to stall the car, and then it wont start for a bit after, if i try right away i get a backfire into the intake(?????). just seems to be the idle when it stalls though, but i havent driven it more the 2 min w/ the map on it. hopefully tommorow i can figure the map stuff out. in the mean time, does anyone have an OBD2reader that will read fuel trims at idle? i think i am going to need one inorder to get a base map runign correctly.
just finished up for tonight (i hope). i re soldered all my ignition stuff and re taped it. i hoked it all back up and i was only runnign on 2cylinders 1 and 2. i used the bridge and i still ran on 2 cylinders, so i took my multi meter to it and found i had a bad connection on one of my ignition wires (odd one i had to t into). i re teed it in, and no it runs perfect on the bridge. it still runs on 2 cylinders w/ the PP in (i am confused by this). but that can wai tell tommorow.
got the car to run on all four today. tried to do some work w/ the fuel trims. they are tricky to work with, but i got them down under +/- 10% wierd thing is after about 5 min at idle the car will just die. it dont matter if uyou have it floored or in closed loop the thing ust shuts off. then the next time you put the key in the on position it sounds like its fires on 1 cylinder, just alittle poof. gonna have to wieght to figure this out tell monday i think. but atleast my car runs fine w/ the bridge in.
