2004 Forester Xt. This morning it was idling rough, but drove fine. This afternoon it threw a CEL and the Cruise light was flashing OBD2: P0304 - Cyl 4 misfire & P0021 Camshaft position Actuator A - Bank 2 timing over adv. I cleared the codes with the scan tool and it idles better but the Cruise light still flashes and I have not drove it since. Any ideas
If you cleared the code with it running, the cruise light will remain on till you shut the car off, and then restart it. As far as the codes, Cyl #4 is bank 2, and that's what Cam it thinks is over advanced. #1. Check your oil level. #2. Make sure your oil is clean, and not black... #3. If you haven't done a timing belt, get ready to do it, because taking the ACVS filter out for the LH head requires removing the timing belt and both LH cam sprockets.
Thanks for the speedy reply and help! I cleared the code with the car off and after taking it to the parts store to get oil, it remained off. No CEL there or back. I do need an oil change, so I'll do that *edit* tonight. How soon would you suggest I do the belt and ACVS filter? Thanks again!
The T-belt is due at 105k, and you don't replace the ACVS filter...you remove them to prevent more problems with the system.
Now that I have done some looking online and I'm curious. What does the system do? And is the filter a tiny filter inside of a banjo bolt fitting? I'm sure I'm clueless, but why would oil be needed at the connection between the cam sprocket and the cam? Is it a form of hydraulic timing advance? I found this:
Wait, what? Both filters are in the banjo's on the AVSC actuator block on each head. I have never seen one in the banjo behind the T-belt cover.
Look on the banjo's for the turbo oil feel line, and the feed from the head on the LH front. The filters are set into the banjo's with the extruded nipple on the heads. That is the "retainer" for the filter. There are 2 for the whole car. 1 in the turbo oil feed (back of RH head) and 1 in the LH oil feed (off the front of the LH head). Those are the 2 bolts that have the filters that get removed.
Swapped the control valve selanoid tonight and it seemed to run better. Brian, you have been a really great help. I will keep you posted, but thank you for all you've done to help me!!! I'll update the thread tomorrow when I get 'er hot and load it a bit.
Over in Lexus Land these things (VVT-i oil control solenoids) are on intergalactic backorder due to astronomical demand. RX300 and ES300 years 1996 - 2003 (and who knows how many Toyotas) are in dire need of these oil control valves. I don't know why, but I think something in the oil has changed to make these all go bad at once. One tiny difference tho. The Lexus/Toyota valve has a sensor in it too, I'm told.
oil HAS changed in recent years, alot less ZDDP (zinc) what effect it has on these valves who knows. I think its just a sign of how cheap **** is made now days, by EVERYONE. The old saying is true, they dont make em like they used to, which is good in alot of ways, but IMO terrible in others.
A lot of the oil has changed through out the years.... but not recently.... The main reason for the change is Emissions regulations.... Ex: California, Arizona and other crappy states..... I do believe Rotella T still has a good amount of zinc copper and other soft metals that help give the oil more cushion...
After letting the car warm up to normal operating temp, it appears that the control valve/selanoid seemed to do it!!!
yeah, I'm awful at keeping track of that so yesterday I got a piece of tagboard to hang on the garage wall. I blame it on a 1 and 3 year old and a wife that must have paranoia about an open day on the calendar.
We have engine flush here for about 15 bucks mnsubaru, come get some, I bet your problem goes away, IF you stay on top of your oil changes from now on.
Can I call with a card over the phone and send my wife in to pick it up? She drives by Mtka Subaru on the way home. The goal of the tagboard is a heads up reminder. My life is busy enough where I need that.
Awesome, thanks man!!! Do I drain the oil, throw in the cleaner, drain that, and fill with new oil? How much will I need? I truly appreciate the help!! Really!
You put it in the oil that is in there, let it run for however long it says on the directions, change the oil and filter, baam, no **** stains in your underwear.
You can easily get to the driverside AVCS solenoid banjo. Take it off and pull out that banjo if it's in where the solenoid is. If the filter has broken and fallen in, you simply unbolt the solenoid and pull it out.
I've also seen that screen get lodged inside rotor housing of the intake sprocket. Sprocket never advances. Pretty easy to take apart and clean. I recommend using an old camshaft to align rotor to case, and blow compressed air through oil passages to ensure proper operation.
