Alright, I'm not getting out of subaru's, and im not even changing cars for awhile, but these are my thoughts. I have a nicely modified 2002 WRX wagon, and am happy with it. I have a few small plans with it in the future, (a little exhaust work and a good tune), but thats about where i'm planning on stopping spending money. It is building up a lot of miles however (just rolled over 126k). I have 5k left on my loan. I am trying to figure out, how much life I have left in my motor, as I'm not running any crazy setup (or plan to), and it appears to have been taken care of, but by no means sounds like a "young" motor. I have noticed that my transmission is chattering at low rpms going into 1st every once in a long while, so my flywheel needs to be resurfaced in the next 10k. If I'm going to that kind of work, the tranni will get a new (needs it) clutch, pressure plate, and bearings. Not exactly cheap, but not rediculous. I will also probably need some new struts within the next 20k, and definitely a new set of rotors, pads, and fluid up front (something NOT stock). Again, add the tune and about $400 for some exhaust work, and now Im upwards of $2k worth of stuff, if I am doing all of the labor. Now throw in a motor rebuild, and I might as well have just sold the car for cheap, paid off the loan, and walked away with an extra grand. The WRX's insurance isnt exactly CHEAP at $130 a month either. With the mileage I have, I'm not upside down on my loan, and its really not depreciating all of that much, which I like. Here's my thoughts and what I need help ruminating over. The angel on my shoulder's thought: You have another 3 years in the corps, just keep it, drive it into the ground, and HOPE that the motor has enough life in it to get me that estimated 40-50,000 miles? How much do I need to start pulling together to rebuild the motor, with slightly better components? (I have researched but everyone has their own numbers). This eliminates the possibility of "trading it in" essentially as the car will have 180k on it at that time, correct? I like this option as it builds my credit score, and saves me money as long as I dont end up replacing the motor. The compromise between the angel and devil on shoulders: Drive it for now. Replace transmission components, brakes, and do exhaust/tune over winter. Hope motor lasts until You deploy in April. Pay to store car, and pay for storage insurance and loan. Come back to between 14-18k hard cash. Trade in Suby with estimated 130-132k on it. (any idea what I can get for it?) Get 05 or newer Legacy GT with 20-40k. Drive until next deployment, store, trade in on new STI or new Toyota Tacoma before ending active service and returning to MN. No worries, even if I get the truck I will be getting a subaru project. The devil's thoughts. Scrap future plans to modify car/long term preventative maintenance. I KNOW I can get at least another 10-15k out of my current clutch, and the brakes can be turned and get new generic front pads. Trade car in on low mileage legacy 2.5i. Build suspension. Live paycheck to paycheck until deployment after which you pay off car. Devils thoughts #2: Start research on 3.3 swap into GD chassis. Hire chux to do engine harness. Buy SVX motor and rebuild for all motor (N/A). Again, this would require a lot of help from the subaru community because I have no idea what features of the car would be lost, and I would REALLY be stuck with this wagon for many years to come. ::see; impossible to sell or trade:: :laugh: I should also add that I have done a lot of preventative maintenance on the current REX. Timing belt, water pump, thermostat, tensioner, scotties cocktail, basically all the fluids, mobil 1 oil every change, new turbo, etc.
I like the 3.3 option, it's rare and sounds cool ... literally the exhaust note is sweet!! All in all do what you think you will love. There are other cars out there other than Subaru's and although very fun to drive and practical in Minnesota winters, sometimes one just wants something else. Best of luck!
I've heard what sounds like a crack in my exhaust manifold, or piston slap. I've noticed it since I bought it, and havent seen ANY changes in its severity, or in the cars performance. I am going to investigate the possibility of it just being a crack this weekend. Thats part of the reason for this thread, especially the concern over the life of my motor. It doesn't seem like a big deal, and may just be the subaru sound, and I will pay close attention to it if it changes. That being said, estimated rebuild cost on the 2.0 if it does go down?
2.0L's had piston slap quite often. Mine has it, as do lots of others. If it's only piston slap, don't worry about it. Just drive it. As long as you keep the oil clean and full, you shouldn't have any issues.
seriously? there's a question of whether a lightly modded 205 will make it to 180k? keep it as-is. take care of it, get the brakes and suspension how you want them. and when you've got some money in the bank and time on your hands, drop a 3.3 in it (seriously, IMHO the EG33 is the most underrated subie motor ever!). oh yea, and keep your eye out for SVXs. maybe in a year or so find a rusty one and buy it as a daily driver for a while until the tranny finally gives up, and then use it as a donor.
I think that your motor will last a lot longer than you think it will. I would wait alittle on everything. Resurface and replace the clutch when it needs it. all new clutch, pressure plate, bearings can be had for ~250 shipped (http://www.clutchcityonline.com/products/KSB-03.shtml) do your brakes when they need to be done, rotors are like $30 ea. for just generic ones that work fine for me. KYB struts run about $100 a corner. Then keep it until you dont want it anymore. IIRC up here a WRX w/ high miles 180xxxish will sell for around 8k or so. That all depends on the condition and the market for it. I have no clue what a WRX sells for in CA. If you are going to do a 3.3l swap why not go all out and get a GC shell and do what Dao did. You save a couple hundred pounds of chassis weight. You could find a decent impreza shell for about $1k or less w/ a bad motor. ideas...
Drive it into the ground. Save money. With the way **** is going. It's better to have cash than an exhaust or pimped out old car with 3.3/tranny. By the time the thing dies or if it really needs repairs before April you'll either have A.) the funds to buy something new and fun or B.) replace the part that broke Any money you throw into modding the thing to hell will be a waste when you sell it. Just my opinion
1... take a look int eh for sale thread and see just how many had the same questions you do and where they are now!!! 2.. Drive it.. love it... 3. make the decision after you arrive home SAFE from deployment with a fist full of cash and an itch to scratch... hopefully that itch aint from 'Bangkok" if you know what I mean
baahahaha nate...always rattling the cages! haha. Thanks guys, appreciate the advice. I have been coming to the same decision over the period of the night, and another suby meet out in LA that we went to. The noise I'm getting is more of a tap from the lower end, but I'm going to see what I can dig up on it tomorrow. I'm not exactly sure what piston slap sounds like or what it is per say, but keeping fresh oil in it has never been a problem.
I now think I have confirmed that it is a rod bearing on its way out. It shouldnt die anytime soon, so I've put a post/inquiry into parts in the for sale thread and will work on pulling everything together to swap in a newer, slightly more solid EJ20. Like I've stated, the more info/help pulling parts and information together the better. I may just save and see if I cant get a newer stock motor/a good rebuilt block from someone. Hopefully I dont even need the new motor, as the "knock" is very faint and isnt getting worse. I'm going to keep a VERY close eye on it from now on though. Just an explanation of the noise its making: Its a slight tap from the bottom left of the motor (from the bumper facing the windshield), that has no rhythm to it at idle, and during driving has a (still faint) offbeat tap to it at lower RPMs 1k-2k.
