Picked up a Grimmspeed pitch stop mount a couple weeks back and since the weather is "decent" today, I figured I would install it. Went in like a charm but putting the intercooler back on I noticed an issue. the wiring harness at the throttle body has major interference with the intercooler piping, to the point where I can not fit the intercooler piping back onto the turbo. Could anything have moved during the install? I would assume nothing would have countered as there wasn't stress on the stock mount, but I am also puzzled as to how this much interference could have come about.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but all you have to do to swap pitch stops is remove the intercooler, swap the bone, then put the intercooler back in, right? Did you do something else that would've resulted in the wiring moving? Not trying to be a dick, just asking.
Correct. That's all I did. I didn't notice any real interference taking it off, either. That being said, I got the car back from JM for a stage 2 build and included a Blouch 20G. From my understanding that shouldn't cause any issues. I'll snag some pics later. See if I can't squeeze the elbow onto the turbo alone.
Without elbow (a little difficult to see, but you can tell there will be some interference): With the elbow on (fairly restricted):
Rotate your TB 90* so that the connector is at the top. When I was running the stock manifold with my FP Black I had to rotate the TB for the same reason - the coupler off the turbo wouldn't clear the TB harness.
Looked at the interference issue this weekend and unfortunately due to other hoses being connected, rotating was not a viable option without other major modification. I spoke with Jesse at JM and he noted that this is a normal issue with the fitment of the larger intercooler a turbo and that they have not seen any issues with the interference. I think I found a new way to re-install the intercooler and will just have to figure out another way to wiggle it on in again.
Whatever was the intended purpose of this? At some point it's actually heating the intake air, correct? Wouldn't you pretty much always want it as cold as possible?
You mentioned re-routing some of the wiring. What did that all entail? That seems like a very odd thing to run coolant at the throttle body.
I think it's supposed to simply prevent freezing. I can't imagine a situation where if your engine is already running that the TB ever gets cold enough to freeze. And with the car off, if the TB freezes, your coolant is likely cold too, so what good does it do really? A bit of a mystery as to why they went through the trouble... Hmm, not sure that I see mention of that. The only thing you might have to do is de-loom a little bit of the wire harness (DBW harness and MAP sensor harness) if you find they are a hair too short, but shouldn't need anything major whatsoever - maybe not even at all.
Emissions and to deter the TB plate from freezing shut in colder climates. I've heard that newer cars also have an exhaust pass with coolant to improve heat up times to reduce emissions on startup but couldn't really confirm
The coolant bypass "mod" is very common and you will not see any ill-effects because of it. Even without coolant going through your TB, the entire thing heats up with the engine/intake manifold anyway. Reroute that coolant line to bypass the TB, rotate that beeotch 90*, be amazed by all the room you now have. ...Or leave it as is fight with that elbow/connector interference
I will be doing this as soon as I carve out some time and will definitely post pics with the aftermath!
Make sure you take beforemath pics, too. That way you've got something to reference when you f it up. Haha. Kidding. Loop them bitches!
@joebush44, or @Krazylegz1485 if you happen to know, what the diameter of the hoses are? I've scoured the web and even talked to multiple dealerships about the part numbers to try and find hose diameter but no one seems to have it. The closest that I have was the parts guy at Minnetonka gave me a "Maybe 7/8" for one hose and 5/8" for the other." I'd like to have the necessary parts before I work on it Saturday just to minimize coolant loss.
That was my response too. I'll take a look tomorrow or Friday but I figured I'd ask to see if anyone knew.
I want to say they are 3/8", maybe 1/2" at the largest. I can take a look when I get home. To clarify though, you don't need any additional hose to make this work. I'll see if I can find a decent write up on it that explains it better than I can. Also, the only coolant you'll lose is whatever is in your throttle body, which would need to drain out anyway. I capped both nipples on the TB just to keep trash out, but that's probably not necessary.
So no good write-up with pictures (#ThanksPhotobucket) that I could find in a quick search, but I did find this picture that shows the hose. One hose goes from the coolant crossover pipe (under the intake mani) up to the TB. Then the other hose goes from the TB to the hard black pipe. So essentially, you're taking one of those hoses completely out, then just plumbing the hose directly from the coolant crossover pipe over to the black hard pipe, bypassing the throttle body entirely. Hopefully that makes sense!
Got down to business this morning to rotate the TB today. Coolant looped just fine, most difficult part was just rotating the hose clamp so that I could pinch it properly. Once that happened I went to install the throttle body back on in the rotated position. This is where I ran into the issues. First, the wiring harness, even freed from its factory zip-tied position, wasn't long enough. I may end up having to just extend it manually with some soldering, but would definitely like to avoid it. Next, and more importantly, The electronics are running into the manifold and has ~1/8" separation. The picture below shows the distance of approximate overlap to sit flush. Would simply adding a few (2-3) extra gaskets to get the spacing correct work? Or would grinding down the nub be the only real option to make it fit?
Bummer you’re having trouble with it. i hope i didn't lead you down the wrong path! The 07 manifold and harness could potentially be slightly different than 08-14 You’re referring to that little bump in the foreground of the pic with what looks like a gray line across it? My manifold didn't have that “nub” on it, so maybe thats why i didn't have any issues there. My old stock manifold was shaved so I don't remember if i shaved that bit off or if it was just never there on mine. As for the wiring, I don't recall having to deloom any of the TB wiring. The harness reached, it was a bit tight, but not terrible. You might have to unbolt the harness from the manifold on that side to get it to reach. I’d be a bit leery of cutting and splicing though
No worries! It was minimal effort to give it a try and it was something that I may not have otherwise thought of! I'm wondering how big of a change was made given that most of the engine bay is set up smiliarly. Regarding the picture, yes. The nub is ultimately what is causing the issue. I am a little wary to grind it as the other nubs seem to be ports and don't want to pop something open. I noticed the no nub when I went back and looked at your build pictures. I definitely don't want to splice and that would be a last ditch effort. After talking with Jesse at JM I will likely just refit the intercooler as best I can with the interference as Jesse said that they have never had an issue with it. Just an unfortunate inconvenience that maybe I will deal with a little later down the road. For the time being, I don't see myself really doing any more work in the engine bay, but maybe come next year, if I have more time/tools on hand I may give it a shot!
