throwing a cel.... so if I install the down, and drive reasonably.. is it going to throw a cell while I wait for my engine management to arrive. and is this really bad for the car?
Dude, if you can afford a $30k car you should be able to do this the right way. Get some form of EM for when you install your tbe.
I have it on it's way.... Just wondering if it's really dangerous to throw it on for a week prior to it's arrival, and drive with care. I have the spt catback - now an invidia v3 divorced (thanks import) and the 2.0 is on it's way to the house... I'm just curious if it's really bad for the car to run the down for a bit prior to EM.... with a hard reset.
Problem solved!!!! temp 4.00 fix!!!! WOOT! 1.Go to your local auto parts store and buy this: or you can also use the #42002 version, all your preference: 2. With a 1/2" drill bit, bore out only ONE of the anti-foulers in order to accommodate the size of the o2 sensor head. Screw in your o2 sensor into the bored out anti-fouler then screw that into the other untouched anti-fouler and voila!
Dude, the CEL should be the LEAST of your worries while running a tbe w/out some sort of engine management on your car. Just wait for your AP to get here and then install your tbe. Your engine will thank you.
Yeah, I hear you. I have my tbe sitting in my garage right now from my old car, but need to wait until the weird timing issue with the '06 WRX gets resolved. Look at it this way....is it worth the extra week or two of grins & giggles to potentially damage your car -- and then not even get to drive it for several weeks while it gets fixed? I'm just looking out for you, that's all.
I was just trying to save on install time. throw it on, drive easy.. work, home maybe a friends house.... didn't think it would cause THAT much chaos under the hood if the ecu is reset, and handled with care. I would think the ecu would be able to adjust to a point.
drive it easy... ha ha I like how we all say that until we drive the car with the new parts.... easy aint a word I would be using when talking about upgrades... ha ha ha
ive got my cobb TBE on right now and it sucks because i will get fuel cut at about 5k in 5th. i am waiting for the new AP but it keeps getting DELAYED with a new glitch everyweek. just be easy on it
lol thats exactly what i thought. yea i;'ll take it easy till i get the EM but then you hear that rumble and there is a wide open road in front of you and it just happens. i need the AP!!!!
Weird I ran full cattles exhaust on my 02 for like two months before tuning it. Never had a problem or a cel. Why is this a bad idea? Can anyone explain that?
So, this is a noob question, but I know that the Cobb AP has an option to use the stock map or the "economy" mode...what would happen if you used those with the TBE? Would it cause issues?
no point in running a base map with realtime maps if you have stage to in your hands, and on your car. take the 15 min and flash your system, or with the new ap 2.0 .... 5 min.
my buddy has a TBE on an 05 sti, no form of engine management because he can't afford it.... has had it on his car with a cel fix for over a year and some. no physical issues yet. still doesn't mean his engine is happy, but it's also not self-destructing on him in a speedy manner.
Not every STi is the same. There is a potential for boost creep on the VF39 on the 2.5L with a catless TBE. I think Cobb compensates for this in their Stage 2 mapping.
when you say bost creep do you mean. when you step on the gas the turbo spools high and drops back down to a normal spool... or spools up, and then slowly keeps climbing? I get confused by "creep"
Correct me if any of this is wrong . . . Boost creep is when your wastegate can't flow enough air, so your turbo starts spooling uncontrollably at higher RPMs. It can be caused by the wastegate being physically too small or by a problem with the wastegate actuator plumbing or the engine management just not opening it all the way. Boost spiking is when you overshoot and then boost comes back down due to the wastegate actuator not responding fast enough.
boost pressure is controlled by the wastegate, which allows exhaust gasses to bypass the turbine wheel. In effect, it creates an alternate route for the hot exhaust coming out of the motor to take, which means that any gas passing through it will not spin the turbine wheel.if this wastegate cannot flow enough to bypass the required amount of exhaust, then that means that too much of the gasses are going to go through the turbine wheel, meaning that it will have too much energy put on it (it will be spinning too fast). As the exhaust gas amount gets greater and greater, the turbine wheel spins faster and faster, and the boost level rises. Creep happens ANY time when the wastegate cannot bypass enough exhaust gas to keep the boost under control. Basically, it sucks lol
Well, em will fix a boost spike, but em won't always get rid of boost creep. If you are creeping cuz the wastegate can't flow enough air, there is no em in the world that will fix that. if it has to do with the wastegate duty cycle, em MIGHT fix that, but there are no guarantees. Russ
If you have a boost gauge and pay attention to it when you're on the gas, you'd probably be alright, but why would you want to do that when you can just drive the thing in its stock, safe configuration? Resetting the ECU isn't going to help you. The car doesn't learn anything that has to do with boost control.
Why is everyone telling him to not run the tbe?? It will be fine, and worst case is you get some boost creep. 90% of the time, boost creep is mechanical, so even if you get some kinda of em, it will still be there. I ran my wrx for a whole year without em. Yes, you are not going to get huge gains by running the tbe with some form of em, but you will still have gains. The best thing to do is just watch your boost gauge and don't do any 5th/6th gear pulls. Russ
I don't wanna step on toes, but my 2cents is to just leave it stock until you get the entire package. Better safe than sorry.
i agree. I have cobbs catless TBE on my sti right now without any EM. It is completely fine in gears 1-4 and if i keep it at WOT into 5ht at about 5k EVERY time, i will get fuel cut(which is actually nice that it is so consistant becuase then at least i know its not detonation ). It sucks but as long as you arent doing any high speed runs you will still be able to goof around in the lower gears and be fine, just wait till you get some sort of em before you start ripping it in the higher gears...
Agreed. I've datalogged a few cars that were running TBEs without some form of a tune, and ALL of them knocked. The problem is that the stock ignition map is only mapped out to the maximum loads that a STOCK car will ever see. Adding a TBE will easily push more air and thus increase your loads higher than what the map is calibrated for. What happens is that you are litterally running "out of bounds" of your stock map -- the ecu will try to compensate for this by running the last cells on the edge of the map. But the problem is that these cells are intended for a lower load and not the higher load the engine is creating. In other words, the engine will try to run a timing value that is too high for the situation. The end result? The car knocks. Over time the car will figure this out and pull the reigns in and pull a ton of timing out (via fine ignition learning and by reducing dynamic advance) to keep you from killing it. Just because you can't hear it doesn't mean that the car is knocking.
