-2006 FXT. -unknown ej25 longblock -Code for Crankshaft Position Sensor -Idles poorly, varies RPM Purchased an ej25 DOHC AVCS w/ a plastic intake manifold. Was told it was out of an outback xt. Was also told it had low miles. Lol. She was toast, so Metro Engine refreshed everything, and I reassembled the whole longblock with all new internals. Pulled engine from my XT (only CEL at that time was for timing over advanced. Presumably due to clogged avcs screens) I transferred the intake manifold, tgv, fuel system, and cam gears on to the new engine. Crank sensor didnt want to come out of my old oil pump, so I just bought a new one from morries. Finished installation and fired it up. Has a tough time idling smooth on its own. Instantly throws CEL for crank position sensor. Drives smooth, it sometimes does not want to go under boost (like it has a bad boost leak) but other times it will come up in boost completely normal. (I haven't let it build more than 5psi yet) Upon clearing the CEL, it stays off for one ignition cycle, but will return the next cycle at start up. Ohmed out sensor, checks ok. Checked for boost leaks audibly and vacuum leaks with ether. None found. Changed out my bpv, no change. Thought my vf22 sounded a bit loud while spinning. Checked if it was getting oil, it was. Swaped it for a vf39 thats newly rebuilt. No changes in runability. I was going to check for a short in the harness, but with the crank sensor unplugged the car will not start. So I dont think there is a short anywhere. Does anybody have an idea of what I should troubleshoot next?
I would check all the wiring harnesses, be sure they are plugged in CORRECTLY and SECURELY. Last time I had my engine out, I did not securely attach one of the main engine harness connectors and it threw some random codes - mostly MAP sensor. The harness connector was together but not snapped securely, visual inspection overlooked it, needed to physically check.
Battery good? Timing good? Crank gear teeth look good? Sensor plate flat/spaced correctly (ie keyhole is lined up correctly and the spacing between the sprocket/sensor are correct)?
Thanks for the replies guys. I will resnap my harness connections and add some dielectric grease. Battery needed a charge and the car was jumpstarted, but now it starts on its own. Timing is on. I will dig down to the crankshaft sproket and see if a tooth is bent.
If you had a hard time getting the crank timing sprocket off and used a prybar/screwdriver, it's pretty easy to break a tooth off. I've also made the mistake of retiming an engine and then running it without the crank pulley bolted onto it. I just wanted to fire it and make sure all was well before I put everything back together. Instantly threw a crank pos CEL...tore everything apart and put it back together...same thing. Next day I realized the crank sprocket had walked forward enough where it was "out of sight" of the crank pos sensor because the crank pulley wasn't bolted to it to keep it pushed back and in alighnment with the sensor pickup. Life lessons were learned. You also mentioned you reused your AVCS cam gears - what happened to the motor they came from? I've taken them apart and cleaned them any time I've had metal go through the motor. Ideally, you replace them with new, but they aren't exactly cheap. I'm not certain how that would relate to a crank sensor CEL though...probably not at all
I used the crankshaft gear off of the motor that was machined. I visually inspected it, but could have missed a bent tooth. The funny thing was, it went ON very hard. The key did not want to sit into the crank. I believe its sitting back far enough now. Half of the key sticks out for the crank pulley. Its a cobb pulley, I've heard of those throwing misfire codes, but should I try bolting the stock one back up just incase? Old motor popped a head gasket, and just had a lot of blow by. Consumed oil at the rate of a two stroke too. Probably will have it machined as well and drop it in one of my other subies.
I'd suggest at the very least pulling the cobb pulley and inspecting that area. If everything looks good, try the stock pulley (assuming the keyhole and key are still good...) after a hard reset of the ecu. Re: the tough install it could just be the paint/powdercoating on the cobb pulley or it could be a deformed key. Either way, any play there is... not ideal.
The pulley went on fine, it was the crankshaft gear that went on tough. I might just throw a new key in there. It didn't move much, but the gear did have a tiny bit of wiggle after it was on. Thank you for the replies guys, hopefully I can have this resolved soon.
