Up Pipe and down pipe install question

How hard is it to install an up pipe and a down pipe? Is there any real advantage to getting a flex up pipe? I've heard of mecahnical and electrical CEL fixes after the install which one is cheaper and easier to install? What kind of power gains do you get usually? I know the gains are much better with engine management tunning but I'm going to bewaiting for my COBB access port for a while it looks like.

Thanks,

Chris

 

uppipe = pretty labor intensive, not all that fun
downpipe = much easier

You can get parts from Radio Shack for the uppipe-related P0546 fix for about 99 cents (1/2W 2.2k ohm resistors), and the downpipe-related P0420 fix for about $1.50 (a resistor and capacitor).

Figure 5-8whp for the uppipe, maybe 10-15whp for downpipe...those are crude estimates.

Just pick an uppipe that fits your budget, any one of them will long outlive your car, doesn't matter if it's flex or not. Proper installation is the key to no leaks--i.e., new gaskets and correct torque values.

Joel

 

What Joe said.

The uppipe is something I would not want to attempt without a lift. Is it possible? Sure. It's just really not fun. The Downpipe you can do with some ramps. You need to go the radio shack route for the EGT fix. If you don't want to DIY the rear O2, you can buy a mil eliminator for ~$20. Both are easy to install(just splice some wires), I wouldn't even mess with the mechanical fix.

If I were to do it again, I would go with a flex uppipe. A wee bit easier to install and it isolates the turbo a bit from the engine.

For gains I would flip Joel's estimates around, being as a cat is in the uppipe.

Again, don't forget new gaskets. I recommend the Subaru type. I had a composite type that lasted about a month.

 

Up pipe is hard since you have little space to get at it... PLUS you have to take the downpipe out anyways to get to 1 of the bolts...

Downpipe, I did it with a friend and it took about 1-2 hours...

total install time, 2-4 hours... about the fix, i say get Utec or something and forget about the resistors... same "trick" for the O2 sensors anyways, and the utec would be a plus...

other than that, what they said..

 

UTEC won't fix the codes. All it can do is stop your CEL from lighting up, so you're screwed if you throw a different REAL code unless you want to scan weekly.

 

true, but UTEC and the resistors do the same thing.. prevent the CEL... anyways, there Autozone to check codes..

 

Well, in my opinion they don't do the same thing.

UTEC = codes stay, but stops light from turning on
resistors = prevents codes, so there is no reason for the light to turn on, so when you throw a real one, you know

UTEC = $900 band-aid
resistors = $2.50 FIX

 

like i said, there's always autozone... with resistors, you're preventing correct fuel-o2 mix data to the ecu since it reads it as a good mix all the time, a change in atmospheric pressure or altitude could change how the car reacts... with utec, you might block all cel, but the correct data goes to the ecu, and you can correct it with the maps in the utec whenever... both resistor and utec block the cel from coming on, but yes utec prevents all cel...

 

The only thing the rear O2 sensor does is detect if the cat is working. It doesn't send any data back to the ECU to adjust trims.

So, what's the problem with using the UTEC to turn off the CEL? Well, what if you get a code for a misfire on cylinder 1, or any one of 100's of different codes? If you don't see the dash light flash when it happens, you won't know you have a possible problem. Also to the UTEC isn't blocking the CEL from coming on, the CEL is still there, it just turns off the light on the dash.

I'm basically saying everything Joel said, just trying to make it clearer. He really does know what he's talking about.

 

Hehe...there's a first time for everything!

*faints*