What have you done to upgrade the brakes on your WRX's. If you do have an upgrade where did you buy the parts from. I was on the highway and some lady pulled out right in front of me so I had to slam on the brakes. Now I think my brakes are going out because my steering wheels shakes when I put on my brakes. So I think it is time to upgrade
That sounds pretty typical of rotor warp. Did you get in on Russ' Frozen Rotor group buy? STi 4-pots are still around and getting cheaper.
I think the stock pads have some wierd compound that leads to buildup on the rotor causing the shimmy. I first noticed it on BIR slowing from 120 to 80, but started noticing it at slower speeds later on. I went with the Perrin Wilwood 4 pot setup because I wanted to keep my 16" stockers with winter tires and switch to 17" with summer rubber. The problem I've had with them is I can't find a pad that I'm really happy with. Either I get bad cold weather performance, or a buttload of dust. Perrin doesn't seem to have a pad anywhere in-between. Oh, and the noise, they squeel, like a...well, I don't want to go into that. If you have 17's year round, I would look into the STi 4 pots or any of the 6 pot systems(Stoptech would be my preferance). You may just want to try a different pad(after fixing the shimmy). True story, rotor warp, very rare, uneven pad deposits, much more common. See: The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm
I am planning on buying something that will fit under my 16's. I was thinking about just buying slotted and drilled rotors and new brake pads, but i dont know if I should upgrade my calipers as well. I also dont know whats a good brand to go with. So if anyone knows of any good brands, let me know. Thanks Evan
Oops, yeah the old STi 4-pots won't fit under the WRX stock 16s, you'd need to get RS wheels or something else to fit over them. The Evo 4 rally car I work with occasionally uses Wilwoods and it's one of the only parts that survives from year to year so I know first hand how good they are. In fact I think I heard the driver mention they're almost too good for gravel As for the warped rotors I have had that happen on two cars I've owned now. I mill my own rotors and you can tell warpage pretty easy when you get them on the mill. Only once was it deemed bad enough to toss the rotors. The other set only had the shudder at high speeds and would fade to a pulse at lower speeds. Unless pad buildup becomes indistinguishable from the rotor material itself I'm pretty sure both were cases of warped rotors. One set was on 3/4 ton truck and the other was on my 1G DSM. Haven't had the issue with stock Subaru steel.
I kept mine simple and inexpensive, I use ATE blue brake fluid, and EBC Red on the front and Axis Ultimates in the rear on stock rotors and calipers. I had Axis in the front too, but received the EBC for testing from the company. Works great for what I need. C
Wilwood 6pot front and 4pot rear with 2 piece drilled and slotted Wilwood rotors. Wilwood 570 degree fluid. Goodridge SS brake lines, Wilwood Q compound pads for street use. E compound for if I ever decide to race it.
I warped my rear rotors on the RS, as determined by my own eyes. .....and FWIW, I consider "coning" to be the same as warping. If the rotor is not flat, it is warped. Maybe just be the definition people use. I feel that article is a bit biased. If the rotor is not flat and the pads deposit unevenly, it is not due to the depostion, it is due to the rotor not being flat. I see this type of misdirection, with regards to Failue Analysis, all the time in my line of work. An even better example is the line "In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures." The root cause is not the deposition, it is that the rotor varies in thickness (or abused in the case of hot spotting). ...looks like someone is trying to avoid the real cause.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by readymix_wrx Wilwood 6pot front and 4pot rear with 2 piece drilled and slotted Wilwood rotors. Wilwood 570 degree fluid. Goodridge SS brake lines, Wilwood Q compound pads for street use. E compound for if I ever decide to race it. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Will those fit under the stock wheels on my wrx. If so where is a good place to find a price. Thanks Evan
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Speedemon <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by readymix_wrx Wilwood 6pot front and 4pot rear with 2 piece drilled and slotted Wilwood rotors. Wilwood 570 degree fluid. Goodridge SS brake lines, Wilwood Q compound pads for street use. E compound for if I ever decide to race it. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Will those fit under the stock wheels on my wrx. If so where is a good place to find a price. Nope, they wont fit under stockers at all. I am not sure, I might have the install instructions still lying around. If not, i think they are on Wilwood's website. They have the dimensions required for install. I have heard you can tuck them under 17"X8" wheels and even 7.5" wheels if the offset is right. You will need to do some math. They will fit under any wheel that the STi Brembos will fit under. Thanks Evan <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">