05 saabaru. It's about a teaspoon every week. There is a small valley right behind the ps pump where the oil pools. The pic shows a paper towel in the crevice where it accumulates. It's not ps fluid. I'm puzzled. Thanks
My memory's a little rusty location-wise, but could it be leaking out where the 'low oil light' pressure switch threads in?
I had the same leak from the oil pressure switch on my 04 wrx. They eventually leak but are cheap and easy to replace once the alternator has been swung out of the way.
The only reason I thought of it is because @Sjogun just replaced the one on my 05 Saabaru because it had started weeping... Seems like they all start doing it after ~10years!
Yup, that's right where the oil pressure switch is. Probably just needs to be replaced. You like likely need to remove the alternator, and I believe it is a 22mm deep socket to remove the switch...don't quote me on that size though. Def needs to be a deep socket.
I just replaced 2 oil pressure switches on an NA Forester and a 15/16" deep socket did the trick. Little buggers made quite the mess. Old vs New
Can you tell where they actually leak from? If it's just through the threads, it's interesting that they seem to fail after X years, maybe eventually the thread sealant cracks from vibration or something. I'm pretty sure they are 1/8" BSP thread, which requires a thread sealant just like NPT does... I hate both those fitting designs
It was hard to tell since both locations had been soaked with oil for awhile but looking at the switch I was guessing it was from where the plastic ring meets the metal body. Didn't appear that it was leaking at the threads. Hmmm, I didn't see any thread lock on the old ones so I didn't use any on the new switches. I'll clean up the area where the leak was and keep an eye on it.
More than most people would want to know can be found at sources like this: https://www.colder.com/Portals/0/Li...ture/WhitePapers/Documents/NPT_whitepaper.pdf Theoretically there is a leak path 'around the spiral' between the crest and the root in BSPT/NPT fittings. For applications like that pressure switch, my guess is that maybe it's not really necessary to use a thread sealant because the sensor metal is soft enough to fill in this gap path, or the oil isn't thin enough to flow through it to a real extent (would be different if it was a pressurized gas), etc. You're probably fine Any of the real mechanics on here could tell us the actual story!
I use a 24mm deep socket, and I do use pipe thread tape on it. I have used a sealant(liquid) before, but I've seen people get too aggressive with the amount they use and a dried piece breaks off and gets stuck in the oil passages, oil starving various components. Worst I've seen is a intake cam totally lock up, new head required. My 2¢
If you want to use sealant for this type of application, I've heard a number of people sing praise for the fairly new Loctite 5452 (Purple) - you can even use it to seal small scratches etc in fitting flares, which used to mean chucking the fitting or getting an expensive flare shim: Loctite® Fast Cure 5452™ Thread Sealant Loctite® Fast Cure 5452™ Thread Sealant is ideal for sealing the fine threads of hydraulic and pneumatic connectors. Like other Loctite® brand anaerobic sealants, this product seals and secures metal pipes and fittings, filling the space between the threads and curing to eliminate leak paths. The thixotropic nature of 5452™ is suitable for large diameter pipes and will seal on mating surfaces of flare style fittings – filling scratches and surface imperfections. This product is also useful with dry seal fittings, such as O-ring boss style connectors, by preventing the rotation that ultimately leads to leakage. After assembly, this product cures considerably faster than traditional anaerobic thread sealants. It does not contain any filler or particles that could contaminate system fluids, foul valves, or clog fine filters and screens. Applications Include: • Hydraulic and pneumatic fittings • Dry seal fittings or O-ring boss style connectors • Large diameter pipes • Flare style fittings
+1 for pressure switch. Throw a new one at it, they're cheap. I've done 3 in the last couple years. I usually don't have the right size socket/wrench, so I just use a channel-lock pliers. AFAIK, it's the diaphragm inside it that fails and begins to leak. If left un-checked, it can make a HUGE mess of the engine. PS. Thanks for telling us what kind of vehicle you have.
Oil pressure switch! I don't know why I didn't consider that. Thanks again to all who chimed in here.
This... It is normally the diaphragm inside that fails. Also happens to the other oil pressure sensors in the heads (had to replace one on my 06 na saabaru.... But I'm sure it's not just saabarus). I've used thread sealant, but I'm sure thread tape or that new locktite is fine too.
