well i am fairly new to the turbo world. i have not mastered reading flow charts, or memorized compressor wheels ect... so i am asking for some advice and input from all you knowledgeable people. heres the deal. ej22t w/ wrx heads, 9:1 CR, all forged insides, Cobb AP, Helix DP (which i want to use again, so turbo must bolt oem style DP), massive injectors. i want over 300whp/wtq. think 18-20psi is doable, or too much? thoughts? td05 16?18?20? td06? vf22? green? hampster wheel??
Get better flowing heads and slap on a GT30r @ 25psi. If you go with a vf series turbo I will slap you. If you go with a Mitsu turbo like the 18g or 20g get the Td06 housing, it will own with that ej22. I ran my TD05 18G @ 19.5psi on my stock ej20 and made 300.3awhp.
TD05 18G is right in the sweet spot for the lowest lag for 300WHP on a 2.2l I think. you should be able to get 20psi out of a deadbolt TD05 18. Imprezme02 odes make a good point, you wont have a ton of headroom for more boost though.
GT30R kit...U got the block to handle it...you won't get full boost until 4500-4700RPM. Are you planning on increasing your redline? P&P Heads and new retainers, valves, springs too? I'm interested in what your results are...I'm planning on having the same setup as u but with a Gt30R,35R, or similiar turbo Kit. Cranking it to 2.35L though, and doing Headwork also...
I wouldnt recommend a turbo that doesnt full boost until 45-47k unless you want a dyno queen or a drag racer, I'd go for more useable power than that. Its just not as useful on the street or track with that kind of lag.
What you want to do with those WRX heads are bigger cams. You need a bit more duration so it'll up the power up the rev band so you can make some more power. A GT30R turbo kit will be just perfect for you.....but since you want stock flange, then it'd have to be something like 18G-20G. ..unless you want to make the IMFAMOUS, THE INFAMOUS by going with some GT35R or something......hahah *I know nothing*
i would think a lower pressure, quicker responding setup would be better in a 9:1 aplication... gt10?
if the setup is efficient, it'll spool quicker. Yea just bolt on a GT30R and you're expect it to come at 4500revvs.....do some porting and having it flow well and you can expect it to be at 4000revvs. ALSO race fuel and pump fuel will effect it's spool up time too when you have different tuned MAPs for pump fuel and race fuel.
I'm planning on a 8200-8500RPM redline...and it will be more of a (Dyno queer) and a 1/4 run/drag. I'm actually hoping for that full boost @ 45-4700 with a GT35R but I don't think it will be that soon...maybe another 2-300 RPM with that turbo kit. Who knows after the project is done w/headwork and tuning...
it actualy wouldnt be a bad idea to upgrade you valvetrain, i would have to reccomend the helix kit.... from what i have read about it, it is the best kit for your money out there to date..... and also remeber that the higher compression is going to limit you on how much power you are going to be able to put down on pump..... you should be able to put down 300 without a problem on pump..... most people that do hybrid swaps can get to 400whp without having any detionation issues while using pump gas.... i would say it wouldnt be a bad idea to invest in a meth injection kit of some sort
Helix kit is nice but only works on 2.0l WRX heads if i'm not mistaken. edit: and after rereading I guess martin is going with those heads, so that will be nice. I want a set as well, but I ain't got no money! But another thing is, a lot of people seem to want to get the biggest dyno numbers out of their cars but aren't terribly worried about the lag issues created buy the really big turbos. I think overall useability wise a shorter spool time is going to make a better, more fun to drive car. I mean 20g's that put out 350+whp are really nice, but seemingly excessive for most purposes, whereas a quicker spool time and maybe 50 less whp woud lead to actually using the boost you have more. Just an idea....
I don't understand why everyone wants to stroke the EJ22T. Is the extra .15L really worth the hassle? Pistons and rods are availible off the shelf for a reasonable price to throw in the EJ22T, and are much beefier than stock. Besides, with the wiseco's, at .020 over you are at 2.24L, and at .040 over, you've got a 2.26L. roughly that is....
actually wanted to amend my last post to say that i'm probably most strongly looking at a vf37 twin scroll for my next setup. that will probably get me in the 250-300whp area, but with a frighteningly low amount of turbo lag, so i'll be using all of the power i'm getting. I've been in tooo many races where its nice to have all that power up there high in the powerband, but it is going to take me too long to get there, or the lag kick will upset the vehicle dynamics in a corner or entering or exiting a turn. A smoother less laggy delivery works better for my needs. However a vf37 twin scroll probably isnt enough for over 2 liters, or so a lot of people are saying. It also requires an STi oil pan and a new header and up pipe and gaskets, but i think twin scroll is the way to go if you want to really minimize lag and make power lower down in the rpm range.
my thought exactly. if wanted a drag car/ dyno queen i would go 8:1 CR and get a watermelon or maybe pumpkin sized turbo. but i want streetability, faster turbo response for more power lower in teh rpm range. the 18g sounds like it might not be big enough, since i would like to have some head room on it. so how bout a 20g? as for the heads, i am looking at the helix kit with the 264 cams. prolly no matter what i do i will get the helix springs/retainers/other valve train goodies, but i have been eyeing some jdm V4 heads..... just for fun i guess... in order to use a 9:1 CR i will need to use OEM pistons. since the wisecos are all 8.5:1 (or custom :yelp. also with OEM i wont need to overbore the block. i would like to balance it to 8.5kish so i could set a redline in the 8k area. (hehehe scare people by maxing stock tach lol)
it's not for the power difference, it's bored to clean up the walls of the cylinder. people try to bore it out to a minimum amount to get the walls of the cylinder as clean as possible. If you're gonna rebuild the block, might as well make it as clean as possible! Martin: the 18G would be perfect for your setup. remember you are running a 9:1 compression ratio. you will be making more power than a regular wrx/sti would be making at certain PSI due to the higher compression. Therefore, you'll hit your 300whp with less boost compared to a wrx or STi. If you up the boost to match the boost of a wrx/STi, you'll make more power anyway..so there's still room for improvements. not to mention you'll have faster spools as well with the higher compression.
^ another reason 9:1 CR FTW! as for the hampster wheel it isnt really a viable opion it requires to much maintance. i didnt see the second page befor i posted lol. as for the twin scroll, some one on rs25 recommended a vf38 twinscroll. supposedly the legacies with those hit max tq at 2400rpms. which is tempting but i dont think the turbo would be big enough for the 2.2l.
hard question. i know i wasn't happy with the power on my 20g, the spool was right on, but topend was dead. if you want to do something crazy like borrow mine for a weekend, let me know. you'll likely want to run a cat though.
Haha, I know! When I was out in Michigan, they were working on one of the first GT42R STI's in the US. Obviously everything was custom, the intake manifold looked like a crazy scorpian or something, the turbo was about the size of my head and barely squeaked in the engine bay, and yes he had a 200 shot of nos just to get the thing to spool, though I highly doubt he would use an entire shot at once... I'd say stick with the 18G, slightly less lag than the 20G and performs almost equaly at top end. You just need to decide what you want with driving the car. If it's your daily driver and don't want to deal with lag, go with the TD05 like I had, I only noticed slight lag at mid throttle. If it's more of a weekend driver, and your maybe lookin into more mods in the future, go with the TD06, which most people put on their STI's.
^That is still up in the works...Haven't really decided what I'm gonna run with. Me and Bikerboy is still figuring everything out. For now, I know for sure I'm getting my drivetrain done this year...Front,Center, Rear Diff (PPG), Driveshaft, Front&Rear Axles, PPG Straight 1-2 gears/helical 3-4, Billet Forks, Output shaft, all I need now are the fluids...haha :banana:
I agree with boring the block a little when building the bottom end. Thats probably why the wisecos only come in .020 or .040 over. With the 2.35L setup, many keep the stock bore, and just re-hone. The factory pistons were slapping a bit, I felt a slight overbore was in order. As far as your choice of turbo, its hard to go wrong with a Garrett GT series. I know its some work to change your flanges, but so worth it in the end, and it opens up your choices down the road. I found that ATP turbos has a T25 to 3" V band adaptor. That's gonna simplify my connection to the Subaru downpipe. Just my $.02
For what I want...It is worth the wait, again it isn't for everyone. Who knows I may even go for a GT42R...haha...Get that Sum Biotch Nitrous ready! ANd a little push would help...
I would love to see a MN guy with a 42.... be prepared to spend over $20k, unless ur a wiz with custom fab.
^20k? and that's not including drivetrain...I'll let you know when I win the powerball. I would if only I could do a 1/4 from a 40mph roll...with my motor setup. hmmm...can I even spool that turbo in a 2.35L? Maybe 7.5k RPM...haha
Yeah that 20k is basically just for the turbo setup and fabrication to put it on, labor included. Think this guy had $70k total invested in his STI, but it has been in 3 or 4 projects.
i would take you up on this however, my project motor is still sitting in my room lol. the car will be my DD for a decent amount of time still. maybe some day it will become a weeknd car, but not for a while. i think td05 for now, question is what trim..... 18g or 20g?
i would like to see some numbers and prices before i would buy one of his kits.... it might look nice, but i like numers, not pretty..... but im going a whole different route then most
I think its probably too small for the 2.2, but looks nice for the 2 liter if you want a strong 17psi or so with minimal lag. If my twinscroll dreams never come true this might be the turbo for me. Also looking at a vf39, but i'd rather have a TD05 18 with the 90 degree stock inlet so i can retain my intake system. Its also a plus that I can have my current turbo rebuit into it since its a TD05 16.
Understand one thing...the stroke of the motor is longer giving you longer exhaust pulses which will help with spooling. The downside of that is increased piston speeds...not always a downside, but unless you have some serious crankwork done, you wont be spinning that thing over 7500 rpms. I plan on running my 22T to 8500 rpms. But like you, I'm keeping my WRX length stroke...because it is cheaper to do. And it makes those cams and that headwork alot more fun
i am confused. whats this refering too? anyway thanks for the map disco. do you have one for the 20g? anyone know when the turbos spool by? 18g, 20g? thanks
yeah, I know but then It would have had to be modified into a 90 degree inlet, and I can get mine rebuilt for about that and keep the same housing I have. It was a good deal though.
