My sub used to just not play if it hit really hard and low. Does that mean the speaker can't handle it or the amp? Mushashi? Anyone?
Substeroo, It could be due to many factors; examples, the type of enclosure your using, the freqency you have setup on your crossover, the type of music your listening to, and what brand your using all will be a factor to what your trying to achieve. Best way is to resolve or prevent these types of issues it preplaning or just tune your equipment the type of music you like to listen to. A good piece to have on almost every setup regardless of size is a good external Crossover. Happy Hunting Chong
We need to talk more. I don't have much time right now though. Do you know where to get some Dynamat or something similar for cheap? That stuff's expensive.
Tell me what your trying to achieve and I'll tell you what I think is the best way to get there ) Chong
Ya, you need to be a little more clear on what is wrong. You might just have some cancelation problems. I know with the subs behind my seat (in my truck), and my 6.5's in the kick panels, some music I have some cancelations (loss of certain tones). Depending on what kinda and how much, I might have some dynamat for sale. I hvae a big roll of the extreme (stuff with the foil on one side). Russ
Thanks guys. Russ, it sounds like a cancellation prob. I have a 10" Sony Xplod Paired with a Kenwood 300 watt amp In a sealed box. No capacitor No crossover When the music plays in a really low frequency, the speaker just cuts and 'waits' for the frequency to go into a higher range again. It sounds really powerful in certain frequencies. Chong, I want to get the vibration dampened. There's too much rattling. I don't know where to start. I guess just try to pinpoint where the rattling is and focus on one point at a time? I know it sounds good when there's no rattling, just smooth bass. That's what I want. Also to reduce the road noise. I have to have the radio way up to hear it on the highway.
Substeroo, Depending on where the noise is coming from, there is a couple of ways you can eliminate rattling. A: cut gapped metal out of your car. B: inexpensive way-Use underbody Rust proof spray (the really rubbery brand)to spray the area's where your sub box is located C: look at your sub's owners manuel and see if its recommened for ported or sealed box enclosurers. *Just remember that if you really want to get rid of all the rattling you will really have to get familar with your car, meaning, you will have to take everything off where the sound is perjected. *note: Sealed enclosures will hit harder and deeper bass, but a ported box will be much louder. Once you have done this, I can tell you ways to cheat to make your car sound even LOUDER then someone who may have twice your power Happy Hunting ) Chong
Sweet. I like the sealed. I like how 'tight' it sounds. Would that rubbery spray work as a sound deadener too? Thanks Chong.
Yep, the spary will work for that also, just not as good. The purpose of the deadner is to add mass so it is tougher to vibrate. If you want you box to hit harder, pull your sub out, and any filler, and spray the whole inside with undercoating (couple of nice thick layers). That will make a big difference. Also, you said there is no crossover?? Not even on the amp?? If you don't have a crossover, start there. You should not have a sub playing over 75-80hz with a 12db slope. Start with the crossover, make sure you have one so the sub isn't playing full range. Then get your gain level set up (remember, its not a volume control). If you want, I could possibably help ya out. I worked at Circuit City for about 5 years doing this stuff. I like closer to ya now that ya moved. I live over by the 3m on 94. Russ
You could have the best sub's in the world, but unless you know how to cater to sub's spec's you can forget about it. Key: custom box. If you want to make a strong sealed enclosure, then you are going to want to seal the joints with silicone and reinforce the walls with fiber glass resin. Its going to take a lot to blow this box up. Believe me IMO I dont like to stuff the box with cotton or fillers, since there is a lot of air moving around at a very fast rate, it would suck to have cotton in the sub, or it there is too much heat, you could start cooking. Whoop there it is! Chong }
I'm not running mad power though. The sub I just got is a single voice coil with a 1200 Watt peak and 300 continuous. I'm getting another for the dual sealed box I have. What do you think about what Russ said about the rubber spray?
I looked at my amp and it has a LPF switch that I have set to 'on' and an input sensitivity dial. The guy that sold it to me said to turn the music up to the loudest I would ever listen to it and adjust the dial until the bass and the music matched. So neither the bass nor the midrange music was dominating. Then he said to turn on the LPF 'lowest point frequency' switch so the sub only plays bass and not everything. Is that input sensitivity dial the crossover?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Substeroo I'm not running mad power though. The sub I just got is a single voice coil with a 1200 Watt peak and 300 continuous. I'm getting another for the dual sealed box I have. What do you think about what Russ said about the rubber spray? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Substeroo, What I have suggested so far has been IMO fairly inexpensive, the quality will depend on how handy you are. I already suggested using that undercoat spray on the metal, recommend taking the plastic interior piece's out before spraying, use as much as needed. Dispite how good or bad your sub's are, a really good box will make a world of difference. I hope your not bumbarted with info now. I guess you can start your own Car Audio shop now Chong
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You have the amp set up correct. You want the lpf on (that is your crossover), and the dail is your gain. I guess I would have to listen to it. As for fillers, they are a good idea (if the box is small and sealed). Just like a turbo, when the air conpresses (when the speaker moves inward), the air heats up. If you are into listening to alot of bass (you wouldn't want a sealed box) the air inside the box gets real warm from the air molecules bouncing off of each other. We all know that warm/hot air is not as dense, so the effective volume of the box gets smaller. Now, when you add fiber fill, the air molecules are not bouncing off of each other as much, and the air stays cooler. The rule of thumb what for a 1 cube box, add 1 pound of fill would give you a 30-40% increase in box volume. That means the a 1 cube box with 16oz of fill would be the same as a 1.3-1.4 cube box without fill. Wow, I guess all those years of training and certification paid off... I would get the specs for the sub, and figure out your box size and see if they match (or are close). if you are running a sub for a 2 cube box and it is only in a 1 cube box, you will have some problems, and the revers is also true. Russ
Yeah, the guy also told me to put in 1 (not any more) package of cotton balls. It seemed to help. The box I got for the two subs has two seperate chambers, one for each sub. I'll have to check the specs though.
