I think he was serious. You'd probably electrocute yourself, though. I found some 16v 1/4 farad caps at some electronic surplus store in the warehouse district a few years ago for like $12. You might want to try and find that place (no, I don't remember what its called) or look around at Axeman.
Got a 1.25 FARAD X-treme Impulse cap. Don't know much about caps but these are the specs on the side of the cap. 20/24 VDC +-5% 95 degree C'. The mounting brackets are installed already so all you gota do is screw it to your sub box or where ever you want it. Works perfectly with my SONY Mono 1200WATT amplifier but since my amp is broken i dont need this. asking 30 lmk
are you traveling back in time or just to the future? but seriously a cap is useless. if you really are running that much power you need another battery and maybe a high output alternator.
I am not so sure i would conduct an experiment that has a bold heading titled "Signs of Trouble:" lol Also I am not sure that the Axeman special would be such a great idea I was under the impresion that the car audio stuff was slighly different then industrail stuff. but who knows at my level they are both capacitors.
btw how is sub4 a subie master? he doesn't understand anything about subarus enough to be a reliable source, let alone own a subie... sorry there's bad blood, he just screwed me over a few times... whatever bump the buick
Hey Angus...whatever beef u still feel please take it through PMs...don't bring it on Sub4 thread or threads he starts...
Um can i suggest upgrading your electrical system IE alternator before you spend a whole bunch of money on another current drain for your already inadequate system?
A cap will be useless for you. It's useless to most anyone who has them (not all...just most). Since the discharge rate is so fast, it's 100% drained well before the waveform that caused the increased power draw is completed.
Unless you have an alternator that is capable of putting out enough current to support the amps its only going to be another load in the system. Im assuming your looking for one since your headlights dim due to voltage drop since the alternator/electrical system isnt adequate. If you had a high-output alternator and had only the very occasional heavy hitting note a capacitor would help. But i would suggest upgrading your Big 3 and maybe a HO alt depending how much equipment your running. Just a thought sorry if im thread hijacking, not my intent
Get yourself some 4awg wire, terminals, heatshrink, ANL 100-150amp fuse/holder. Run a fused wire from the alternator directly to the battery, a wire from ground to chassis, and a wire from ground to the block. Dont remove any OEM wires, just add to them. This should help out and is pretty cheap to do.
alex you dont need bass that loud, all you hear is rattles keep it simple, maybe 2 10s or 1 12, 400 watts maximum.
Personally it would be one of the last things in a very nice system i would get. Running ~400 watts RMS w/ a big 3 upgrade shouldnt pose much voltage drop on your system at all. I really wouldnt worry about it. If you get it all in and still want to try it its up to you. I ran 1400 watt rms on my sub and 175x4 chan bi-amped components back in my stereo days with minimal light dimming and no cap. *shrugs*
