Whats gonna be the best for the EJ257 block to run? I'm looking to get upwards towards 20+ PSI of boost. Is any one company cheaper, better, or both?
Mahle pistons are nice, and are coated. For 20PSI of boost, you could pick just about any aftermarket rod.
New Crank =$296.34 New Crank Bearings =$145.80 New Rods =$230.40 New Rod Bearings =122.56 New Pistons =$520.26 Total = $1315.36 VS. New STI Short Block = $1595.03
Pistons are over 500 now huh, I think I paid 450 for mine. Edit: http://importimageonline.com/imagep...o.php/cPath/22_34_56_482_909/products_id/1918
looking at your prices it looks like you are going to use oem bearings? get some aftermarket ones for cheaper and more safety.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car...adiZ2865QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item250257569349& rod and mains for more than you will pay for just mains
the "race" is just a series of higher quality bearings that ACL offers, you specify your engine and bearing size (im assuming std.) when you buy it. I would click around in his ebay store and look for a 1-800 number and talk to a real person. I would definately go this route though.
Is that your cost??? geez...I thought it would be aronud $1300, a stock STI block should be able to handle 20psi if tuned properly...
No no no. Call Calico for bearings. That is where Cobb and others get their bearings from. Derek paid $160 total for rod and main bearings. http://www.calicocoatings.com/
A completely stock block should be able to handle 20psi (with a good tune of course), no need to get race or forged anything IMO, and last for a long time.
Very true. 20psi is also relative. 20psi from a 20g and 20psi from a 40R are two completely different things. Specify a specific HP goal and then people can actually help.
I wanna get close to maxing out my T28. They say it can handle 28 PSI IIRC. Soooo my build is going to be the following: EJ257 New Internals P&P Intake and Heads (gasket matched) Larger Injectors 300+ WHP
Sounds like a fun setup. I would suggest forged pistons, stock everything else. You might even be better off buying a new short block from Subaru and dropping in the pistons. Good luck!
Depends on the motor. Stock 2.5 yes. Ported to hell, no its not. 20psi is running right across the most effcient region on it's compressor map. You just have to flow enough and rev high enough to take advantage of it. When you look at a 35R's compressor map, you also see that they are more happy on larger displacement motors with low boost. Not that they don't make nice power on smaller motors. The next turbo I get may be a GT3782, and hopefully someone can put together a watercooled ball bearing variant. A 3782 will spool faster and be much more efficient at higher pressure ratios than a lot of other turbos in that airflow range.
From the looks of that map, a pressure ratio of 2.5 is starting to push the limits of it's effeciency. So at sea level, a 2.5 pressure ratio is 36.75 psi minus atmospheric of 14.7 means you are at about 22psi. You also need to account for any losses like intercoolers and what not. Here is the map of my turbo. Mine will be happy up to 26-28psi before accounting for any losses.
If you have them come fall/winter time when i start the tear down. I will for sure pick these up from ya.
