You drove the car til he motor seized. You should take a good look at your cam journals on both your heads and cams. Next to go out would be your turbo. Total cost is lots because everything that OIL touched, will more than likely have shavings in them. Your heads needs to be cleaned with the oil galleys out. Oil cooler needs to be replaced. Oil pump needs to be cleaned out with everything off of you buy a new one. Read http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2141800
Cam Journals look good, as do the cams. I'm getting a new pump and oil cooler from Subaru with the new short block. So where should I bring the heads to get them checked out? I'm heading up north for the weekend so I'm going to drop them off sometime this afternoon. Yes I'm going to be using a brand new STi short block from Subaru. A 8.7:1 is a pretty good ratio in my book. Both you guys have hybrid motors, I have seen Fuji's in person, but what do you run for boost on yours? Regardless do you guys think that the 2.5 block 2.0 heads are a good idea? I just want to make sure before I pull the trigger.
I run around 22 psi from a GT3582R on 92octane. I have unrelated fuel issues that are prohibiting me from going higher than that at the moment, those will likely be fixed when I get rid of my UTEC and Ultimate Racing 1000cc injectors.
Holy Cow Fuji! That is some interesting stuff! What is your take on not having the 2.0 heads machined?
Your first question should be to ask yourself, "what are my goals?" You can buy a Cosworth 2.5L block and have a thousand dollars in headwork done, but if you are only planning to run a VF39 for your turbo, you're wasting your money. Shape your engine around your goals for the car. Don't just do a bunch of things if they don't serve a purpose.
Right on. I'll make a list of what I'm working with. Walbro 255 Perrin fuel rails 650cc injectors VF39 Intercooler GT28/71 turbo Perrin inlet TGV Delete Grimmspeed uppipe Catless downpipe full 3" exhaust one resonator on the end stock air box Some stuff I cant think of off hand Goal-300-325whp on E-85 thats all I want
You will be fine without all that head porting. You likely wont need it at all. I'd bump your injectors up to 850cc if you plan to use e85. I don't know what a VF39 intercooler is, I'm going to assume you mean the stock STi intercooler. You might want to roll something a little larger for a GT2871. You can usually find some decent and cheap ones on eBay. Another question I have is how do you have a GT2871 on a stock flanged downpipe and uppipe? Are you certain it's a GT2871?
Yes the intercooler is stock STi, and the turbo uses the stock up and down pipes. Carl has pretty much the same turbo.
Just pulled the trigger, got an 04+ STi short block, 08+ oil pump and a new oil cooler coming from Morrie's! New stuff will be here on Wednesday!
Well the heads are at the machine shop to be cleaned up, parts are on there way from Subaru. Head studs, head gaskets, and clutch are waiting for me at MAP. The only loose ends are a tranny mount, and a face for my Fidanza flywheel. Readymix what head gasket do you run? Anyone have a Fidanza face if MAP cant get one?
If the engine was one that had a blown HG and overheated or have overheating problems, I will have the heads and block decked. If it doesn't I will inspect the heads and block. I don't really like to deck it if I don't have to. However if you're talking about chamber work, a simple widening like what I've done with then; 50cc after will allow the heads to let air out of the engine. I did this with (Dynapar) Martin's 2.2L build with the EJ205 heads. Much better flow around the valves. He also has some head work and cam to complement the port work. There will be no hot edges with this modification. Here are pics of Martin's heads. Chamber and pic of it on a 2.5L block. Stock head on 2.5L bore
I'm getting the cometic .060 head gaskets. The car had a spec stage one, but it never broke in right due to being oily from a leak out of the back of the block. But the guy at MAP wants me to get a competition clutch. They said the stage two would work great for the power level I'm going to be at. I don't know anyone that has used it. Why don't you like it Fuji? What would you recommend?
Of course the GUY at MAP wants you to get a Competition Clutch. That's his job, to sell you it. I've had experience with those clutches SOLD BY THE GUY FROM MAP, and they sucked ass. Sale rep ADAM sold them to a few local guys and had issues. Even HE had issues with the Comp Clutch; throw out bearing. The two STi's I've driven since then swapped to ACT units and work great. The WRX wag, previously own by MAP sales rep Adam, switch to an Exedy twin plate. I recently driven a WRX, who was sold a Comp Clutch from ADAM and still has issues with his clutch only coming halfway up. I run an ACT unit in my setup with my 6spd. That or Exedy will be great. Do NOT get suckered in to a Competition Clutch JUST BECAUSE HE's GONNA GIVE YOU A GOOD DEAL. **** the deal, know what you're getting.
i didn't read pages 2-4 so i might be missing some stuff but +1 for ACT and i just got a twin disc and its niiiiccceeee
I want to get a clutch that doesn't chatter or cost more than say 600, how is the ACT 6 puck? I kinda want to stay away from pucked clutches but if you guys have good luck with them I would consider it. Has anyone run a Centerforce Dual friction?
I've had the ACT 6 puck sprung clutch kit for almost 2 months now. I don't notice any chaddering, it holds my plenty e85 torque well.Its so responsive, that if not carefull at the lights, just a slight lift makes the car want to jump...lol....call josh at import image racing and get a good deal on it under $600.
Get a Spec Stage2+. It's a full face clutch, and they feel like stock. The engagement is similar. If you drive this car around daily, you aren't going to want some snap crazy clutch.
This is the setup I purchased a month or so ago. Very firm and a little chatter at first but now that I am use to it no problems. I got mine from import image racing. I think it's right at what you wanted to spend and includes pressure plate, clutch and throwout bearing. My WRX is somewhere near your goals of hp/torque. http://www.importimageracing.com/p/ACT-Heavy-Duty-Street-clutch-kit-02-05-WRX.html
One of my friends ran this clutch in his 02' a couple years ago and loved it. Ill either get that or the ACT full faced. Now I still have my flywheel delema, I need a Fidanza face... Also is there anywhere in the cities where you can get a group N transmission mount?
I ordered mine from turninconcepts and had it in two days. Morries should be able to help with it too.
Well I still don't have a face for my Fidanza, does anyone have one locally? If I can't find one should I just get an OEM from the dealer? How come faces are so hard to find???
How did the Fidanza hold up? I'm deciding on having my stock flywheel machined when I do my clutch or possibly buying an aftermarket.
Well the Fidanza only had 4,000 miles on it. But it was having a small amount of oil leaked onto it so the clutch never broke in right, it slipped, and the insert has some hot spots on it. Also I had a friend remind me that you can't use a wrx flywheel on a STi block. So I'm going to have to get a new flywheel, probably just an OEM. Once I'm sure it wont work make me an offer on the Fidanza.
Alright, I have a few questions for you guys. 1.) Is there a specific flywheel that I'm going to have to run with the STi block and the 5 speed M/T? 2.) What should I do for tuning since I'm going to have a fresh engine and clutch that need to be broken in. I really can't just have it strapped down on a dyno? Right? Any place that is preferred? Then there is the question of dyno or street tune. Bullwinkle did the previous tune (Excellent!). Cobb access port is out of the question I believe.. 3) Now what kinda oil do you guys recommend? One of my friends that works at the Subaru dealership in Michigan said that the best oil out there is Rotella T6 synthetic. Opinions? 4.) Oil pan and pick-up. I'm going to need to get an STi set up right? I know that the 2.5 pan provides better oil control. 5.) Water Pump, my 2.0 had a brand new one I can use it on the 2.5 right? 6.) Any thing else I'm going to have to look out for? Thanks again guys, the input that I have gotten from you all has been excellent and very helpful!
1) Your friend lied to you. You can bolt on any EJxx Subaru flywheel on any EJxx crank. Hey guess what, my crank is an EJ205 crank for '02+ WRX, the block is a '91 EJ22T, the flywheel is from a JDM '04 6spd. You run the matching FW/clutch with the tranny you are running. 2) If Bullwinkle did an excellent job, I'm sure he can set you up for this hybrid. 3)That works. I don't run synthetic, just the regular stuff. However I do change my oil 5-6weeks 4)Your WRX one has better oil control. It's a larger capacity. However run the STi one if your headers need clearance. Your choice. 5) There are different part numbers, but you can use your 2.0L on the 2.5 block. 6)Look out for anything and everything.
Lol Yeah I thought my flywheel would work! I'm going to clean out my oil pan and pickup tonight, and try make a list of everything I'm going to need to grab when I run to Subaru, and MAP tomorrow. So what do you guys think of running E-85? Is it worth it?
Yeah... I'm still unsure if the huge decrease in gas mileage is worth the quicker spool time. I can easily attain my goals hp wise on 91-93.
Ok, well I don't want to get ahead of myself, I still have lots of work to do before it will be tuneable!
Alright, well yesterday I got all my parts minus my Group N transmission mount, Fidanza insert, and water pump gasket. I ended up getting a set of Cometic MLS head gaskets, MAP head studs, and the ACT Street disc clutch. Picked up my STi short block, Oil pump, Oil cooler, Oil filters, and valve cover gaskets from Morries. My progress last night was I installed and torqued the heads. Mainly I was just making sure I had every thing that I needed. So far it looks like the only thing that I have to pick up besides spark plugs is the water pump gasket. Is there a oil pump gasket? Do you just use a little Honda Bond? When I picked up my stuff from Morries the parts guy said that I should try not to touch boost for 1000 miles. He also recommended Rotella T conventional for break in. Then T6 after 1000 miles. I picked up some 10W-30 for break in.
