02 WRX to 98RS Swap Question

Wouldn’t make sense that it fired on the first try and now it won’t start, but did you double check timing? It sounds like you’ve confirmed spark and fuel.

 

I like @joebush44 's theory on timing. I would try to get a reading from the cam and crank triggers while cranking with a multi-meter, or an oscilloscope.

The way it sounds reminds me of when I had my coils wired completely wrong. I know you paid for a professional harness, but can you test continuity between the pin at the ECU and wire at the coil?

I also agree that it does not make sense that it fired the first time and now won't run. Unless it was running on 2-3 cyl, but I still think we would hear some kind of combustion happening.

Seems like either the timing is off, or the ECU can't correctly identify where the engine is in it's stroke.

 

I am leaning towards the timing being off somehow as well.

I have taken the timing covers off and checked the tooth count and all seems correct.

Any suggestions on pins to test for the cam & crank sensors? (I can refer to the fsm later)

When you say the coils were wired completely wrong, do you mean like it was trying to fire coil 3 instead of 1?

When the engine was running, it was running the best it has ever been. Definitely sounded like it was firing on all 4s.

I appreciate the help guys! I will check on those things tonight if I get a chance.

 

When you say 'checked the tooth count', do you mean looked at the trigger wheel? I'm talking about monitoring the electrical signal that comes out of the sensor and into the ECU. It would be obvious if say you were not getting any signal that a sensor is bad, or it's wired wrong. You should see it going from 0 -> someNumber of volts while cranking. Cam less often than crank. Here is an example of what I get from my cam and crank signal:


Top one is the cam, which is one pulse for every 12 crank pulses. This is an H6 so yours will be different, but I thought this might be informative none the less.

The pins to look for are crank trigger signal, and cam trigger signal.

That is what I mean for coils, I had 3 of my 6 wires going to the wrong cylinder and it still ran (though very poorly).

If it ran good I doubt the wiring is the problem, but I would confirm the signal from the cam and crank.

 

Yes I was referring to the tooth count between pulleys on the timing belt. I have not checked the electrical signal coming from either the crank position sensor of the cam position sensor.

That graph helps me visualize what is going on. Out of curiosity, what did you use to log those graphs?

I will double check the coil wiring just to be thorough.

Thanks again Eazy for the help. I will try and get out in the shop tonight and do some tests.

 

I have an aftermarket Megasquirt ECU so this screenshot came directly from the Tuner Studio software, but essentially with the multimeter you should see more than 0 volts on the wire, and see it jump around when cranking.

 

Gotcha. I didn't get a chance to work on it last night. I'll chime back in when I get a chance.

 

So i was able to work on the car a bit over the weekend. Tested both the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor. Both sensors showed varied voltage while cranking and I also performed the sensor resistance checks in the FSM and they all check out.

I think I'll be starting to look around for a good shop to help me out.

 

Gonna be dropping the car off at JM Auto on Monday afternoon. Hoping to get this train rolling again!

 

Heard good things! Never been a big fan of shops doing my work so I've never really looked into them all that much.

 

They are a fairly recently established shop. But do great work and have great customer service.

 

Update:

Well, got the car over to JM and they are a good group of guys. Pleased with the service.

On a sadder note, it appears I am in need of a motor.
They did a compression test and came up with the following:
Cyl 1: 55 PSI
Cyl 2: 20 PSI
Cyl 3: 50 PSI
Cyl 4: 0 PSI <---Not a typo

Leakdown test has air coming out the crankcase and out the exhaust on cyl 2 & 4.

So, currently exploring options. Find another EJ205 to swap in, rebuild current motor with some stouter components, upgrade to EJ207?

Not looking to make big numbers, just a fun street machine that I can do some track days with.

 

Sigh now I feel like an idiot...I had this happen with a guys car I went out to California to help swap. We did the swap and in the end could not get the car to start. Turns out after we left he took it to a shop and had the same thing happen. Blown motor. Sorry

 

Eh, s*** happens man. Super bummed but I'll figure something out. Too deep into this one already to give up!

 

Yep, as tempting as all those options are, they are unfortunately too rich for my blood right now. I think I'll be going the JDM EJ205 route without AVCS as a cost effective option.

 

......and JDM EJ205 has been ordered from our neighbors in Canadia! Should be here first or second week of January.

 

Update time! I have been making slow progress on this project. New engine showed up and I've got the old one pulled and stripped. Got almost all the timing buttoned up but the last pulley boss decided to lose it's threads. Have a Heli-Coil kit waiting for me at the parts store later today.

Anyways, Photo Time!!!!










In case anyone was wondering, this is the difference between the JDM EJ205 cam sprocket and the USDM one for the cam position sensor. JDM on left, USDM on right.



The offending pulley boss.



Finally how it's sitting right now. Will try and get the timing belt squared away tonight and get a few other little things buttoned up on the bottom side. Goal is to have it back in the car and running this weekend!

 

Sweet!

Also, more pics of whatever is to the left of it (please!)?

 

You mean the right?

 

As to the weird looking silver thing to the right of it, that's the hot rod I've been building with my pops. Homebuilt chassis, radius rods, body. My dad is pretty handy with wood (was his job for many years) so he tackled the body portion. I fabbed the frame and bracketry.

Frankland Quick Change rear end with coilovers and a panhard bar
4" dropped front I-beam axle with disc brakes
custom overkill radius rods front and rear 1.5" x 1/4" wall DOM
Early 70s Dodge 318 with the normal 4 barrel carb and some custom lakester headers i fabbed up
727 Torqueflite trans with shortened driveshaft
Need to start the titling paperwork and finish the wiring harness.



Was a lot of fun to drive like this




Morrie's sure sells some cool cars

 

As viewed, yeah. I did mean the left (driver's) side of the car, tho (as if you were sitting in the car, because I'm weird like that).

 

Made some good progress over the weekend and last night. Got the motor all put back together and it's now back in the car. Have a few more little things to plug back in and then it'll hopefully run tonight!!!! Here's hoping!

 

Photos make the world go round! Excuse potato camera photos. I am trying to keep my DSLR from the stupid cold

 

IT'S ALIVE!!!!

 

Got the rest of the exhaust back on last night and ran it for a good half hour. Got the cooling system all bled and topped off the oil. Also had to play with my throttle cable bracket since it was tweaked, which caused the throttle plates to not close enough which was causing my high idle.

Something I noticed when I put the intercooler on was that the 04 STI y-pipe on the backside is sitting right on the heater hose connections and made it a b**** to get in place. Anyone run into that before? This block came out of a GC so the driver side heater pipe on the block is in the center right next to the passenger side one VS being further to the driver side on the GD block.

 

Got some more work done on Revy over the weekend. Cut down the bumper beam to fit the new bumper cover. And before anyone comments on my sloppy work, I did go back and smooth everything out and made it all pretty

Went pretty smooth except that the bumper is sitting about half an inch too low. Anyone ever done this and have any insight?

 

Currently have the rear corners zip-tied to the fender so they aren't flopping around Still have finger gap underneath headlights :'(

 

Took advantage of the Rallysportdirect sale this weekend and ordered up an Invidia Q300. Should be a bit quieter than the melon launcher on it now

 

Love the Q300 I have on my BRZ

 

You figure out the BCS situation?

 

I was looking at a more tame exhaust and a lot of people recommended the Q300.

Got the hoses switched around and it appears to be doing it's job now. Boost is back down to 19-20 or so like it used to be. Thanks again Sheen!

 

Exhaust showed up Wed. night. Getting off work at noon today so I'll probably be throwing that puppy on when I get home

Then gonna do another round of checking bolt torques so she will be ready for the drive over to my buddy for an alignment early next week.

 

Same exhaust I have on my RS. It sounds great and looks good doing it. I've never been a big fan of the giant fart can mufflers...except for @Krazylegz1485 's 8" (?) tip he had on his bugeye...that was pretty awesome.

 

Come on now...

 

Srsly

 

If I could find a way to quiet it down a little I'd rock it on the cruise this year.

 

Just stuff some steel wool in there

 

Pretty sure I stumbled on your yt channel, P.

Found this gem featuring what may have been my first event after finishing the rsvx build.