05sti. Why is my cruise light flashing?

But following these instructions will get me where I need to be, correct? I'll do this tonight, just swap 2 of them to see if the problem moves. Keep your fingers crossed.

 

Got the injectors swapped between cylinder 2 and 4 (the two on the drivers side). Car still runs. Sounds normal, no leaks, ran it around the block a few times to see if it had any issues. None so far, so now the waiting game to see if it comes back and where. Hopefully this will help narrow down where the real problem is. Thanks for the help and suggestions so far guys.

 

Swapping injectors won't make any difference if one is bad, it's still one of four cylinders not getting properly fueled. Swapping injectors or coil packs only locates a problem if you've got a specific cylinder misfire code. Sorry if you did post a specific CEL code, I didn't see one.

 

They are both EJ motors, i think one could figure it out. He did.

 

I fully understand that swapping injectors won't fix the problem. Just like you said it is a troubleshooting step to determine where the problem stems from.

If 'when' the misfire CEL comes back it moves from cyl 2 to cyl 4, then the problem 'should' be the injector and 'hopefully' replacing the bad injector will eleminate the problem for good.

If 'when' the misfire CEL comes back and it is 'still' in cyl 2, then I have bigger problems, internal problems.

Is there anything else I can do on my own if I get another P0302 CEL, or am I best to just bring it into a dealer and have them run their checks?

 

Well, I got the P0302 cyl 2 misfire CEL again today. Same exact conditions. Engine barely warmed up, slow acceleration from a stop. It comes on practically before I even move from a stop. It's not there, and then by the time I've looked for oncoming traffic, started to move and have a chance to glance down, the CEL is on.

From what I'm hearing from everyone, the next step is a compression test or a stop into the dealer to hand them $115 to run thru their diagnostic checks. I'm told that with what I've already done for troubleshooting, I should take it in and do the above diagnostics first and that it is most likely valves and this can be a $2500-3k job.

Does this sound correct? Should valves be done at a dealer or are there other shops around the cities that can do it as well or better and for less cost? If at a dealer, any specific location and mechanic or just take it into Bloomington where I bought the car?

 

We can help you out with. Do you have a way of getting freeze frame of the cel?
A freeze frame will tell you the conditions when the cel came on. Like fuel trims, load %, tps opening, coolant temp etc.
If it's the valves then you're looking at a head gasket job plus machine work for the heads. Nowhere in the $3500 range. I don't think it's even in the $2500 range.
But make sure that is the problem first.

 

You didn't mention how many miles are on the car. But I remember you saying you've had for 3 years. The oxygen sensor is also known to go bad after how many miles and is a maintenance item. You might need to get a log of your trims and verify it with a wideband to see if your o2 is on it's way out. Your fuel trims will be off if it's bad or about to be bad. It doesn't alwas throw a cel because electronically it's still functioning but might be giving out wrong reading.

 

I do not have a way to get a freeze frame of the CEL as far as I know. The only thing I have is a COBB v.1 access port and their standard software that comes with it, not the pro tuner or anything. If there is a way I can get the frame with this equipment, I'd like some teaching.

I have about 84k miles on the car and have never changed the oxygen sensor. At what mileage point should this be done?

Before doing a valve and head gasket overhaul, what other things can be done in attempt to clean out and junk that could be causing the problem? I've read some posts that talk about sea foam. I'm not familiar with this. What is it, what does it try to clear up, how does it work, how do you use it, etc? I can't spend $2k+ right now on the overhaul, so I'm looking for the low cost, less involved possible fixes.

Thanks.

 

I think the first step is figuring out the problem. We don't know yet if you'll even need an overhaul. If the car drives fine and doesn't seem to have an obvious power loss, it could just be a simple fix.

 

I appologize if it is obvious, but what then is my next step? Getting the CEL frame? Doing a compression and leak down test? Something else?

 

Check plugs, swap injectors around, then do leakdown test.

 

I've installed new plugs after swapping, I've swapped injectors, all per previous posts. Current question is where to get the leakdown test performed? RS is close to me, assuming they are still in the same spot in Burnsville off of 13.

 

wow!

its super anoying when the a thread starts about something interesting and when people actually get in and talk about it the OP goes MIA and never gives enough info or follows though on steps to find out what happened. so if anyone has the same issue they are screwed or in my case, just wasted time reading a thread with no follow through....

 

My code reader reports all the freeze frame data...but I live pretty far out in Buffalo.

 

I'm sorry if you didn't read the entire post. What did I leave out, or are you referring to Binx159 who started the thread? If you are referring to myself, how am I not following thru? I believe I've provided all of the information that I have and all of the steps that I've taken to try to resolve this cyl 2 misfire CEL. Anyone else with this problem should be able to read thru, follow the logical troubleshooting steps that were recomended and that I took up to this point.

 

I'm in the south metro. Do any shops here or up thru the north west metro have a reader to get the freeze frame the next time I throw the CEL? If the freeze frame and potentially a compression leakdown test are my next steps, I'd like to get where and how I'll get these checks accomplished prior to the next occurance.

I reset the ECU for the timebeing so I can get some more of this figured out.

Thanks.

 

If its not an injector, its not a coil pack, and its not a plug, then its a mechanical issue. Contact bikerboy, he works at RSmotors, and they are in burnsville.

 

PM'd him. Thanks.

 

So I had the CEL come back today. Same sorta conditions. Only thing I didn't do today that I had been doing was let the car warm up for a minute or so before leaving. I was running behind and had to get going. I drove maybe a mile further than it ususally came up, but again occured while slowly pulling away from a stop with cars in front. I didn't notice any hesitation again or anything. Only thing different is that I did just this morning before filling up the tank, pour in a bottle of the same fuel injector and intake valve cleaner that I had used back in december when I thought the problem went away. I'd driven probably 45 miles since filling up when the CEL came on. Guess it's time to stop by RSMotors. Any other thoughts would be helpful though as usual. Thanks.

 

Here's another question for anyone. I recently had to change the O2 sensor in my fiance's Trailbalzer because it brought up a CEL code about it failing. It got me wondering if either of the O2 sensors in my car could be malfunctioning to some degree and causing changes in the AFR and therefore affecting the cylinder 2 firing? I've got a catless DP and am using the mechanical fix (pair of spark plug extensions with one drilled out to house the sensor and the other with the small hole to allow just enough exhaust gas thru to the sensor). Just a potential troubleshooting question that hopefully someone may have some insight on.

 

I'm assuming the rear o2 sensor?
If so, it's not going to affect it.
If front o2, you'd automatically get a CEL.

 

On the 32-bit ECU I've read that the rear sensor does actually effect the fueling of the car. Get a proper tune and run with the sensor in like you should.

 

on the 32bit ecu, NOT having the rear o2 will affect the fuel trims.
he has the rear o2, getting the CEL disable will not do much except the light not showing up on his gauge cluster.

 

Okay, perfect. Thanks for the correction.

 

Ok, so in otherwords, any problems with my rear O2 sensor (which is installed with a spacer to keep it from getting all the gasses that go thru without having any cats) will have nothing to do with my cylinder 2 misfire codes. I'm meeting up with bikerboy tomorrow to go thru some additional tests.

 

I stopped by RSMotors yesterday and bikerboy did a compression and leak down test on my engine. Pressures were at or above 140 psi on all cylinders, so we've ruled out an internal problem. He did find that all of my spark plugs were not as tight as they should be and instructed me on the proper tightening technique to fully seat the crush washer on the plugs. Now it's drive until it happens again and get all the CEL data pulled before going too many drive cycles to get the ECU to reset like it did over the weekend.