07/98 RSTi Build Thread

Discussion in 'Photo & Video Gallery' started by joebush44, Oct 17, 2016.

  1. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    Using 4043. I've tried cleaning passes, aluminum-dedicated SS brush, acetone, repeat, but doesn't seem to improve much. I find I'm having a hard time getting the material to puddle. I've tried preheating the part to about 200* but it dissipates heat so quickly it's difficult to keep it hot - it seemed to help a little though. I think I'll throw it in the powder coat oven and get it up to 400* or so and see how that goes. I'm also only on 110v as I don't have 220 in the garage so that's probably not helping things - running it at about 140A. The casting is about .250" thick so 140A is probably a little cold for aluminum. I may have to try it in the house on 220, crank it up and see how that goes. I really need to scoop up a manifold to practice on then give the preheat a shot, maybe with more amperage, and see how it goes.
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2019
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  2. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    Also found out the hard way that just flipping the alternator actually gains more room than using the Outfront-style relocation bracket. In my case, it's crucial that I have the alternator as far to the driver's side as I can possibly get it so there is no interference directly in front of and below the plenum. If I ever get this thing that far, I'll need that room to build out the plenum.

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    Last edited: Feb 26, 2019
  3. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    I made a little more progress over the past week. I picked up a Vibrant Performance manifold vacuum block and began plumbing it. I used a couple of m6 x 1mm nut serts to attach it to the firewall. I have boost gauge, FPR boost reference, and my hobbs switch for my 2nd fuel pump trigger plumbed to it currently. There will be a -6 AN feed from the bottom of the manifold to the vacuum block. The AEM MAP sensor (pictured) will actually be placed directly onto the manifold instead of in the block (in theory avoiding any delay in signal). I am also going to plumb my BOV to the block, but need to figure out if I want to spend the money on AN fittings and hoses for it...will probably just use a barbed fitting.
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    I welded a 1/8 NPT bung onto the manifold for the brake booster. The welds were pretty horrendous looking, but it's solid. I blended the welds to make it look OEM-ish. The vacuum nipple in the background of the first picture was later shaved after I was certain the new 1/8 NPT port was going to work. Hose fitment ended up being perfect.
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    First bung weld attempt...fail...good thing I ordered an extra just in case!
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    Got a little carried away porting. Inside runners still need some TLC.
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    Stock vacuum nipple shaved
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    And welded shut and smoothed
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    I cut the center bracing section out of the top portion of the manifold so I can weld all the way around each runner.
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    Beveled the passenger side in preparation of welding the upper manifold to the TGV housing.
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    I got the passenger side all tacked up and it's still aligned perfectly when test fitting to the car. I still have some cutting to do on the driver side before I can bevel both pieces then tack that side. I have plans for the plenum in my head, but haven't bought material yet. Having never done something like this before, I think that will be my biggest challenge. Hopefully I can pull something off that works and at the same time doesn't look too ridiculous. :D
     
  4. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    The upper manifold is now welded to the tgv housings. It went okay, but it was a little rough in some spots. I ended up grinding all of the welds smooth and I'm going to keep practicing and eventually make a final pass over it again. The hardest part was welding in between the runners where it's difficult to get a #17 torch in there. I switched over to a stubby gas lens on the torch which made it much smaller and I was able to get in there and get it all sealed up. Also, preheating the part to around 220* in the powder coat oven before welding seemed to help it puddle easier too. It's a lot of mass (and being aluminum) it dissipates heat quickly so it can be hard to even get a puddle going at times.

    I used a 1/2 pipe to -8AN compression fitting adapter on the hard coolant pipe that goes from the water pump, under the intake manifold and to the coolant expansion tank. I wanted this hard line out of the way to make more room for the turbo inlet and also relocating the expansion tank since I didn't want to mount it to the intake manifold. To get the compression fitting to go on, I had to cut the flare on the very end of the hard pipe. It should work nicely.
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    It's not the greatest picture and it's still a work in progress, but I began modifying my Moroso coolant expansion tank that so that it can be relocated to to the passenger fender. I cut the bracket off that formerly mounted it to the stock intake manifold and welded it back on so it will mount to the fender. The coolant hose that was adapted with the compression fitting that I previously mentioned will connect to the expansion tank using a -8AN 90* on the back side of the tank (between the tank and the strut tower). After cutting the stock barb fitting off and plugging the hole for the coolant feed from the AOS, I drilled a new hole where I'll weld a -8AN fitting on. I'll need a new/longer hose for my AOS (which I can order through IAG), but I'll use a -8AN to 1/2 hose push on fitting for that connection. Should be fairly clean and work well as long as the welds seal :D
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    Last edited: Mar 13, 2019 at 11:27 AM
    02subbieRS, tangledupinblu and idget like this.
  5. thebionicman
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    thebionicman Well-Known Member

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    I like the new hose for that coolant line. I bent the sh!t out of mine when I was working on the car. Never thought to replace it with a hose like that.
     
  6. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    Every little bit of room helps with a stock location turbo car! It should work well
     
  7. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    I had a couple of hours to play around in the garage last night and got my expansion tank finished up. It just needs blasted and coated now. I welded on two -8AN fittings. I had to move the tank about an inch forward from where I had it mounted previously to allow enough room for the 90* fitting, but no biggie. I'm loving rivnuts for the ease of mounting stuff on firewall/fenders. :D

    Meh, I've seen worse welds lol
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    Again, the 90* fitting is connected to the compression adapter fitting that I previously put on the coolant pipe off the water pump. The barbed fitting will connect to the AOS coolant hose, but I need to order a new one because this one is cut too short for where the tank is now. The tank is a little rough looking, but hoping some powder coat will clean it up a bit. As long as it doesn't leak I'll be happy.
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    It's a bit of a mess right now, but it's getting there.
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  8. tangledupinblu
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    tangledupinblu Event Coordinator Staff Member

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    Get er done Joe!!:thumbup:
     

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