Discussion in 'Photo & Video Gallery' started by joebush44, Oct 17, 2016.
Photo dump from last track day
Happy 2020 MNSubaru!
I finally pulled the RS out from its hibernation corner to start prepping it for the upcoming season. I need to pull the trans and get it down to Off The Line Performance for a complete rebuild. I'm really curious what let go, but my guess is a shift fork broke. I picked up some 12 ton jack stands so I could get the car up quite a bit higher. The lowest setting on these big stands is still higher than my 3 ton jack stands fully extended, so that's kinda neat. Also, doggo.
In other news, nothing like ruining a perfectly good, brand new, IAG AOS...I'm converting it over to AN fittings since my valve cover vent lines are already AN and I don't want to go back to rubber hoses. I know IAG makes a "race" version of their AOS with AN fittings, but it's $100 more expensive for that option and at the time I was planning on converting back to just regular hoses. I had the weld on fittings laying around from other stuff so I figured why not just convert it...I'm definitely a bit rusty with the aluminum tig welding though!
Besides the trans rebuild and the new (new) AOS setup, I don't have any other immediate plans for the car this year. If the stars align, this could be the first year I get to enjoy the car for a full summer without a catastrophic breakdown (probably just jinx'd myself hard, but one can hope).
Trans is out and ready for a ride to OTL...
I found this little nugget in the pan when I dropped it to see if I could see any carnage. I believe it's the ear off of the gear selector, which makes sense considering I have nothing when trying to shift to 3rd.
Here's a pic from the interwebs of what I believe broke
As long as nothing else got chewed up as this piece made it's way down to the pan, I don't think the repair will be too costly
I made some more progress on my AN conversion on the AOS. I welded a 8AN bung to the oil drain pipe
Then also welded two 8AN fittings (valve cover vents) and a 12AN fitting (main crankcase vent) to the AOS
Mounted. Hood shuts after some slight additional massaging
I'm going to route the AOS oil drain back into one of the valve cover vents as opposed to using the Y fitting that would normally be in the main crankcase vent hose. Mainly, because going from the AOS drain to that Y fitting would be slightly uphill due to the way I have the hoses routed currently. Secondly, I want to run a 12AN hose straight off the main crank vent to the AOS without any step downs. I'm planning on just throwing a 8AN T fitting right off of the valve cover and plumbing the drain line into that.
@joebush44 looks to me like you are correct. If you don't have any other signs of damage (or if your not getting any additional work done) why not replace this yourself? Having taken apart a 5MT (almost this far) its relatively straightforward compared to some other things I've seen you do. My .02, either way keep on keepin' on!
Honestly, I find it intimidating. I've never opened up a manual transmission. I just imagine for some reason, me pulling the case off and a bunch of springs, gears, retaining clips and **** come shooting out of it lol. I doubt that's logical, but I'd likely need some specialty tools to pull bearings off the shaft (possibly really long pullers to reach further down the shaft). Maybe that wouldn't even be necessary considering what broke? I'd also like everything else inspected and wear items like synchros replaced as necessary. Too many intricate parts going on and I don't want to mess it up I guess :/
I don't blame you. It may take more than I think to fix your issue. Always a good idea to get it inspected.
Like the old “can of worms/snakes”? Lol, I’ve always pictured it the same way, sounds logical to me! Hahaha!
looking good Joe!
On a 5-speed, getting to those shifter pieces requires very little disassembly, and zero shafts/bearings, IIRC. And the 6-speed design is much easier to take apart.
I understand the trepidation, though. I'm glad the first 5MT I took apart was scrap. It turned out not to be too bad, but I was nervous going in.
Finally finished the AOS hose routing and also powder coated it. I did end up routing the AOS oil drain to the passenger side baffled (nearest to AVCS solenoid) valve cover port, so we'll see how that goes. The main 1" vent hose at the top of the AOS will be routed to a catch can that I will be mounting to my transmission (in theory), so I suppose if I see that catch can filling up, I'll know my AOS drain configuration isn't happy.
Finished product. Also finally coated my intake pipe that's been raw since I built it
Preview of the catch can setup bolted to the trans (before I took it to OTL last week). I'm just not sure how close to the axle it's going to be...will have to wait until it's back in the car to see if I need to move the mount. Again, the 1" hose from the top of the IAG Comp AOS will vent/drain to this -16 catch can fitting. And, doggo stretch
POWDER. COAT. EVERYTHING.
Got some transmission carnage pics back, for your viewing pleasure. As suspected, one of the ears for of the shift selector barrel broke off (3rd gear). Parts are on order and should hopefully be ready by next week. Everything else inside looked great so that's good news
Pic for reference again of the piece I found in the pan when I took it off
Haven’t been on here in ages, but I dig your build !
Reminds me of when I finished mine back in 2009.
Where did that video go of you pulling that sub 9 second pass dipp? Also, welcome back!
There is one on YouTube, car currently is apart again. After cylinder #3 wrist pin decided it didn’t want to remain in one piece. Gonna get an IAG block this time turn the boost to 45lbs and go for an 8.
Atta boy! Good to hear that you didn’t sell it. Looking forward to that future 8 pass!
Social Distancing/Quarantine update! Hopefully everyone is staying healthy.
I got my transmission back a couple of weeks ago and was able to get it back in the car last week. I mounted up the catch can where I was hoping it would fit and it's a perfect fit. It has comfortable clearance near the axle and steering linkage and sits just under/behind the starter. It 's also in a spot that I can reach to drain it without even having to jack the car up, which is pretty convenient.
I installed some Aluminati solid trans x-member bushings as the tranny went back in. I hooked up the shifter linkage and wanted to test 3rd before filling it with oil. 3rd works! But, WTF, I no longer have a working reverse lockout. I fiddled with the cable some more, but came to the conclusion it had to be internal. I had to undo most of the work I had done, but luckily you can drop the tail housing without dropping the entire trans...
This is the reverse lockout plunger mechanism. There is a pin that needs to be dropped into the hole I'm pointing to before the plunger is put back in. That pin rides on a "cam" that releases the lockout when the lever is pulled. My theory is, that with the transmission sitting vertical so that it's on the face of the bellhousing - if you were to remove that plunger the pin would fall out without you even knowing. The plunger would right back in without any issue or knowledge of the pin falling out...until you see it laying on the bench once you complete reassembly lol
OTL was quick to send me a replacement pin and after A LOT of cussing I was able to get everything back together. Having never taking the tail housing off the trans...it was a learning experience to say the least. Honest mistake, but it's all good now
Lastly in transmission related news, my output shaft is a little twisted so when that breaks at least I'll know how to replace it (OTL did let me know that it was twisted, which is fairly common)
Another project I was working on in the meantime was converting my TBE to all v-band flanges. Mostly for the reason of being able to quickly and easily change between an obnoxiously loud axleback to the quieter Q300 axelback, but also to eliminate some minor exhaust leaks from under the car.
("muff" was short for muffler side )
First time welding stainless on an actual project. By the 4th flange, I was getting a little better
Back on all 4's (the car too)
A little walk around of the dusty girl, because testing a new GoPro and why not...
3rd gear works . In hindsight, not the greatest view with the GoPro on the head.
(this was on e30 so it's turned down a little lol)
Excited for another track day to see how deep in the 10's it can go with a tranny that shifts.
I thought that the borders are closed? How did you get into Mexico for that pull? Looks and sounds great Joe!
And that oil catch can sits nice and low, nice work!
I bought an 18' steel trailer from a buddy last week for a pretty good deal. I've been casually looking for one and anything "decent" is in the $2500+ range so I figured this would be perfect to tide me over until I can buy something newer.
Well...unfortunately I needed to use the trailer much earlier than anticipated - two days after buying the trailer due to grenading 2nd gear while sendin' er a little too hard. Pretty bummed considering I just got the trans back in the car less than 100 miles ago. This failure is completely unrelated to the previous failure and/or service done to the trans over the winter. This repair will likely be a little more costly than the previous. Not sure how quickly I'll have it back together yet
That sucks man
Ehh **** happens...self inflicted as usual LOL. Should've named this car "The Curse" haha
It’s not too late!? Lol
Damn, Joe. There's gotta be a "you blow more trannies than..." joke in here somewhere.
I'd been on the lookout as well. A friend of mine just bought a Hull trailer. Brand new is competitive with used junk...and they're built to order, so can be customized (4' beaver :drool: ). Have to drive to Iowa to get it...but less of a problem for you. www.pullhp.com
I bought a basketcase 14+2 trailer earlier this spring. Still cost me more than most of the cars I own.
Yep, same place I was looking at and will be going to when it's time! Right on the southern Iowa border. Brand new 18' manual tilt for 2599 out the door. I like the idea of not having to deal with ramps, but I'm weary of the tilt trailer approach angle with a semi-low car.
Any used tandem axle 16' or 18' trailer seem to all be priced $3k+ unless they are a complete jaloppy! I'm doing a little work to this trailer to fix it up and then plan to flip it to get my money back out of it to put toward a new trailer eventually. This trailer weighs 3250...she's a tank. All 3/16" steel. New wood deck trailers avg about 100lbs/ft so it would be significantly lighter. Just hoping my 4L60e in my Silverado hangs on long enough...not like I'm trailering too often anyway especially with the RS out of commission at the moment.
Watching my friends load their vehicles on those tilting flat bed trailers makes me cringe. It's at such a crazy angle so getting it on and in the correct spot looks like a pain. And then hope your parking brake is pretty stellar while you jump out and lower it down. Haha.
I went the cheap route and got an old, used race trailer. Sure it's nothing fancy but it's gotten me to BIR and back twice, and brought home two project cars. Does have ramps but it's not bad at all. And deck height is pretty dang low, even with the ramps.
Valid points. I just imagined it would make loading easier when alone (not having to dick with lining up ramps). I can see where once you have the car on and you open the door, you'd basically have to slide down the trailer and hope the car doesn't go sliding/rolling off lol. Might have to reconsider tilt...unless it's hydraulic and I have a remote with me in the car...but that sounds expensive
I've never seen one that wasn't gravity tilt. The equipment ones we have at work are, for sure. Once you drive far enough forward, it lowers itself. I still imagine that to be tough to do gently with a manual transmission. And it still looks like a steep approach angle.
The HP trailers have 5' ramps, and I'd love to get it with a 4' beaver. Never have to worry about approach or breakover angle again.
The skid steer trailers we have at work are all hydraulic auto tilts. The car ones I've seen (that my friends have) are either manual jack or electric assist, but both have to be lowered manually by reversing whatever process lifts it.
If you could get a car trailer that came down automatically that would be the jam. Benefits of both worlds there.
As far as solo loading goes, I put my car on the trailer once and moved it around til I got the best weight distribution. Then screwed down a 2x6 on each side to bump my front wheels into when I load. I don't care if it looks silly, it works for me. And I only haul Subaru's... Haha.
That's terrible. Definitely no tilt car trailer for me, then.
Why has no one designed a “Bluetooth” controlled trailer for the smartphone?? Lol
When you make dumb things smart, they become unreliable.
Long overdue update...I took a little break from the car and let it sit and think about what it did for a couple months.
This past weekend I was able to get the trans pulled and get the gear stacks out of trans for further inspection.
Check out my "not a how-to" thread for details on the 6MT tear down:
Carnage pics to follow. Viewer discretion advised...
So looking like the parts list is going to be:
Main input shaft (1st and 2nd drive gears are part of the shaft)
2nd gear, driven
And the bearing that is in a dozen pieces that was on the bottom of the driven gear stack
Could be worse. Putting it all back together will be an adventure, I'm sure!
Everyone: get a 6 spd, they're bulletproof.
Joe: hold my beer...
Part Number Part Name
32201AB170 (Sft Trans Main)
32275AA560 (Gear CP 3RD Drive)
806438010 (Ndle Brg 38X43X25)
806562020 (Thrust Bearing 62X82X3.6)
35211AA220 (Oil guide)
32650AA150 (Synchronizer Set)
32650AA160 (Syncro Set)
32629AA000 (Carbon Ring)
802628030 (Lk Nut 28X14.5)
803528030 (Lock Washer 28X42X2.9)
802645010 (Lk Nut 45X10.5)
32650AA140 (Synchronizer Set)
32251AA890 (Gear 2ND Driven)
I ordered these parts late July and found that 32251AA890 was on backorder until 8/15. I didn't really want to wait so I started looking into compatibility between years. As most know 04-06 are a different gear ratio. 07 was updated with the longer 1-4 ratio. 08+ has the same ratio as 07, but they also ditched the oil pump. In my mind I couldn't see why the 2nd driven gear from 08+ wouldn't work on the same gear ratio trans from 07 so I substituted 32251AA890 ('07 specific part) for 32251AA980 (08+).
I took the gearsets and all my parts down to OTL and we spent an hour or two swapping stuff out. The process is very straight forward if you are familiar with a hydraulic press...press the gears off the shaft...press new ones on. The tricky part is the removal/torquing of the nuts that hold both stacks together.
The main shaft is a 38mm nut which we were able to spin off with an impact. The nut is "staked" after it's torqued so it's kind of stubborn taking it off. Reinstallation requires 289ft-lb per the service manual, then stake the nut so it can't spin off. (Note: this nut is not reusable. It also has a lock washer under it. Both included in replacement parts list)
The driven (pinion) shaft is a bit trickier which requires some Subaru specialty tools. Adapter Wrench 18620AA000 and torque wrench 18852AA000 (basically a 5ft tq wrench). Additionally there is a base18666AA000 that the gearset rests on and a holder 18664AA000 that the splines of the driven shaft fit into to hold the whole thing from spinning as you're taking the nut off. Reinstallation requires 391ft-lb (!) per the service manual, then stake the nut so it can't spin off as well. (Note: this nut is not reusable and was included in replacement parts list.)
We got everything swapped over and before torquing the nuts we gave everything a once over (luckily). We discovered the 1/2 slider will not engage 2nd gear. Go figure...that's the gear that I thought I was being clever swapping out. Needless to say, that's not gunna work so we took the driven stack back apart and I went home with the gearset in more pieces than I went there with originally. It was a bit of a wasted trip, but I learned a bunch.
In hindsight this was a bit of a blessing because when I ordered parts I ordered synchros, but I didn't order "sliders" (Sleeve Hub Assy) not knowing that those should likely be replaced with they syncros. Apparently these are what wear out more so than the synchros and the teeth on my 1/2 and 3/4 sliders are a little beat up. I'm wondering if this might be why 2 to 3 shift is hit or miss (mostly miss). So I got 32251AA890 (Gear 2ND Driven for '07 STI) ordered now that it's in stock at this point and I also ordered 1/2 and 3/4 slider so those will be getting replaced as well. Everything should be pretty fresh inside at this point!
2nd parts order:
32251AA890 (Gear 2ND Driven (the correct gear for '07 STI))
32605AA330 (Sleeve Hub Ay (1/2 slider))
32605AA310 (Sleeve Hub Ay (3/4 slider))
Side by side of the 980 ('08+) vs 890 ('07 specific) 2nd driven gear.
You can see in this close up the slight difference in where the slider engages the gear
This one makes it pretty obvious there is a difference in the "depth" of the engagement teeth
This video shows the issue. The slider (where the shift fork would normally sit allowing you to shift between 1st and 2nd) will only partially engage 2nd gear. It might kinda work, but would likely have to hold the shifter in 2nd to keep it engaged. You can't really see in this video, but it fully engages 1st no issue. So this "slider" as well as the 3/4 slider is what I'm also replacing. The teeth that guide the slider past the synchro onto the gear are a little worn on both sliders. Overall I'm just happy we caught this now.
I got the transmission all put back together and back in the car a few weeks ago. It was done 1 day too late to make the LAX cruise, but hopefully next year. Reassembly was fairly straightforward - the most difficult part was aligning the gear selector ears in their correct spot and keeping them in place as you slide the case on over everything.
So far, so good. I am really glad that I replaced the slider/sleeve for 1/2 and 3/4. The 2 to 3 shift is butter now - hopefully no more 3rd gear lockouts. I am still a little apprehensive FFS 1 to 2, but I've tried it once now and it held together.
Testing out my Hero7 with some exhaust noises to tickle your earholes...
2-3-4 full rip
Idle/normal driving clip
Good ol Mexico! My ear holes are satisfied