07/98 RSTi Build Thread

Discussion in 'Photo & Video Gallery' started by joebush44, Oct 17, 2016.

  1. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    Several small reasons really, but mainly the fact that this block is technically only rated for 675BHP (Roughly 550WHP) and the Black will push it beyond that. Jr has tuned several Stg2 Tuff blocks to around 600whp with good results. So my thought was if I can reach the limit of the block on a stock location turbo, why not? Also cost of UP and DP and wait time for build (even though the cost could be somewhat offset by selling my UP and DP). Lastly, space in the engine bay. I have my AOS and turbo expansion tank in that area so I'd probably have to relocate both of those if I were to go with a rotated setup.

    Just using Subaru Nationals as an example, when you jump into the Rotated (64mm max) class you're up against cars in the 9's. Knowing my current setup isn't capable of that power, I'd rather stay in the stock location upgraded class as opposed to running a 6266 or something similar in the Rotated class, but make the same power and not be competitive.

    In reality the spool is only going to be a few hundred RPM slower than the 3.0xtr that I had on there, but the Black should hold power to 8k+
     
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  2. TMF
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    TMF Well-Known Member

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    I see, makes a lot of sense. All of the little things can add up quickly. And +1 for building your car for your competition class too...so many people modify first, then get into motorsports and discover their car is way outclassed (and usually outclassed for the driver's ability too).
     
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  3. jmyhre05
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    jmyhre05 Well-Known Member

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    Rotated turbo's allow larger inductions and other benefits so you can help it breathe. The straights clean 4" inlet helps quite a bit. A rotated turbo of this size would spool quicker. But that's a pretty big step not everyone is ready to take to achieve high hp numbers.

    But yes, building in your class and means is a great idea for sure!
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2017
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  4. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
     
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  5. tangledupinblu
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    tangledupinblu Event Coordinator Staff Member

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    Baby steps Bob...
     
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  6. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    I got my Radium double pump hanger installed this weekend. This thing is so pretty, it's a shame to have to hide it inside a fuel tank. Installation was very straight forward, no issues. Running twin Walbro 450 (F90000267) pumps. The main pump is hardwired on a relay and grounded back through the factory FPC so that it still retains the 3 second prime when the key is switched on and then only runs once the engine is running. The 2nd pump is on a separate relayed circuit and triggered by a 10psi Hobbs switch that will only kick on once boost hits 10psi.

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    10awg wire from battery to 30A inline fuses, to relays, to pumps

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    Pump wiring (and dog snout)

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    That should pretty much be it for installations/changes this winter. I still need to put the interior back together and get a base map from Junior for the new changes. I also need to find some front seats...I don't think a milk crate will work very well.
     
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  7. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    I opened a big ole' can of worms this weekend....

    Windshield and door trim has been removed. It was a can of worms that eventually needed to be opened for some minor rust repair. Better to get it taken care of now before it gets any worse. A local guy who used to do windshields professionally for 20+ years was able to get the windshield removed for me and in one piece!
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    Luckily, the only rust on the car is on the A-pillars (pictured above). I'm also going to do some other minor dent repair on the hood, front fenders, and passenger door. The biggest challenge will be the large dent in the passenger rear quarter in front of the wheel. I may need some professional help on that, but we'll see. Still debating if I want to paint the car myself or just have it wrapped for now. Can't afford a professional paint job at this point. I have some HVLP guns so I may try to paint a panel from the parts car and see how it goes and go from there.
     
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  8. Krazylegz1485
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    Krazylegz1485 Well-Known Member

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    Going black again?
     
  9. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    Ideally, yes. I've never legit painted a car before. I did my engine bay with just POR15 and a HVLP gun and that turned out well, but that was a single stage application. I've never done body work, prep, primer, paint, sand, clear, sand, buff.... (I think that's the correct order of operations). It's kind of scary to think about, but I had to get this rust issue taken care of. I've thought about just getting the repairs I do into primer and then having the car wrapped, although I'm not certain that would be any cheaper to have done.

    Kind of torn on how to proceed to be honest. I'd like a gloss black finish as an ultimate goal...so I should probably stick to that goal.
     
  10. tangledupinblu
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    tangledupinblu Event Coordinator Staff Member

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    Check with Meh-gun @Legsaucy ?
     
  11. MrBlue
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    MrBlue Active Member

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    You can do it!!!! prep, prep prep... just remember to keep a wet edge on the paint while spraying, use the appropriate reducer temp and it will be enough open time so you don't get the orange peel look. I would also rent a proper spray booth so all the dried mist floating around won't end up in the final spray
     
  12. Krazylegz1485
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    Krazylegz1485 Well-Known Member

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    Gloss black is pretty much the hardest color to make look good. You'll see any imperfections in both the paint/clear as well as the body work underneath (which is really what makes a good paint job look good).

    I'd absolutely use a booth to do it if possible, just for the sake of cleanliness at least, but also so you get proper ventilation to allow the products to work properly.
     
  13. tangledupinblu
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    tangledupinblu Event Coordinator Staff Member

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    How you going to get a solid paint fume buzz going with ventilation?
     
  14. Krazylegz1485
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    Krazylegz1485 Well-Known Member

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    Just don't wear a mask!
     
  15. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I haven't even shopped around for a professional paint job. I already know it'll be more than what I want to pay right now. I know I can get all of the prep work done properly, just the painting I'm not so sure of. I've seen a few DIY paint booths so might have to look into that more. At this point, I'm not sure if I'm ready to completely strip the car and paint...I'm just looking for stuff to tide me over till spring.

    If I can't get a killer deal on a wrap (been talking to a couple of places, one of which is a potential sponsorship deal), I'll probably just seal my body work and shoot some black paint on the bare spots for now and call it good for this season. It'll be kinda fugly, but at least it will be rust free. I'll also be shaving the door trim holes and the antenna while I'm at it.
     
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  16. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    Update: Car is now in 100 pieces. That can of worms has now turned into a barrel of worms :eek:

    I finally got some Argon/CO2 for the MIG welder. It's really a night and day difference using gas and solid wire vs flux core wire. No slag, no splatter, not as much heat is needed and an overall better weld. After getting the welder dialed in I started filling door trim holes. Being a novice welder at best, there was definitely a learning curve, but I'm getting better.
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    This is a handy tool for filling holes as long as you have access to them from the backside. The weld won't stick to the copper pad so it allows you to build up some material without it blowing through as easily.
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    I had time to get 3 of 20 of the trim holes filled in last night. Then I also plan to shave the manual antenna on the driver side A pillar as well (2 holes and 1 oblong opening that I'll need to fill by welding in a little filler piece). My biggest challenge still lies ahead in fixing the damage to the passenger rear quarter and passenger door. I have a lead on an OEM rear quarter (possibly one of the only OEM ones left in existence), but I'm going to try to repair it before pursuing that further.
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    Lots of work left to be done, but I think the final result will be worthwhile. This is all new to me so I'm learning as I go. That can be both fun and honestly kind of scary.
     
  17. tangledupinblu
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    tangledupinblu Event Coordinator Staff Member

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    You have 6-7 months to finish! :D Keep it up mang!
     
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  18. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    HAHA. It may not be realistic, but I'm hoping to be done by the end of May :unsure:
     
  19. tangledupinblu
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    tangledupinblu Event Coordinator Staff Member

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    Atta boy. Set the goals high
     
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  20. 02subbieRS
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    02subbieRS Well-Known Member

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    Cosmetic welding is always a little scary. which is why they make bondo ;)
     
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  21. pleiades
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    pleiades Well-Known Member

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    Good luck with everything, Joe. I'm hoping to be done with my Biscayne around the same time and from what I can see you have a little more left than I do.
    You-can-DO-it-meme-18134.jpg.35db7023a07e8c65a32df87ac5313a9b.jpg
     
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  22. idget
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    idget . Staff Member

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    Lol yeah, self shielded flux core on body panels would make more work than I even want to think about.

    esp on thin ass panels... just gotta stitch/skip around a lot
     
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  23. Chux
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    Chux Well-Known Member

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    Looks great!

    FYI, they're not terribly rare. There are a total of 13 of the RH side in stock in US warehouses as of right now. 51403FA381 is specific to the 2-door RS, and has an MSRP of $499.99.
     
  24. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    Good to know! He mentioned that he thought it was the last one in the US, but you're obviously more in-the-know. If I do go that route, at least I know I can get another one if I bugger this one up lol
     
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  25. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    Began work on the mega-dent this weekend. I'll be able to avoid having to hang a new quarter or piecing one together, luckily.

    Started with this..
    [​IMG]

    I made a slide hammer out of a cheap vise grip, a steel rod, an old socket and the center part of a grenaded timing idler from my daily. It worked pretty well actually and I see it coming in handy for other things around the garage in the future.
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    This was after paint removal and a couple pulls in the center of the dent
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    Who needs a Unispotter stud welder...used roofing nails as studs to pull on.
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    I got it this far. It could still use some massaging, but it's getting there. I'm planning on getting it a little closer then using some fiberglass reinforced body filler (aka Duraglas) to level everything out. Then some regular mud on top of that to make it all smooth. The tricky part now will be to get the door gap even and match the door profile to the rear quarter. I haven't started repairing the door yet.
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    I also ordered this JDM flat fuel door from Flatirons Tuning and got it test fit installed. They sell a complete kit that includes the door, the cable, the lever assembly, the plastic lever assembly cover and the lever handles. Looks much cleaner than the stock door.
    [​IMG]

    Lots of body work fun left.
     
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  26. Krazylegz1485
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    Krazylegz1485 Well-Known Member

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    Your ingenuity with the slide hammer is awesome.

    Also, Duraglas ftw. That stuff is hard as hell to fine "shape", tho.
     
  27. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    Haha thanks. It's kinda fugly, but gets the job done. And yeah, I've read that it can be a bitch to sand too. I'm just going to rough it in by filling the larger valleys then use some Rage Ultra filler over that to get it perfected. I'm going to skim coat all of my welds where I filled the trim holes with Duraglas too (probably even on the back sides) - just for extra insurance in case there are some pin holes I can't see as well as using it for its waterproofing qualities (compared to regular filler).
     
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  28. Krazylegz1485
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    Krazylegz1485 Well-Known Member

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    I commend you for using good products. It makes a huge difference (you obviously know this). I just can't stand hearing people refer to filler as Bondo, because Bondo brand is junk compared to the good stuff (I know it's kinda like Kleenex, but still).
     
  29. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    I've been doing a lot of research lately. I've probably watched like 20 hours of youtube videos in the last couple of weeks on top of hours of researching forums etc. A good resource I've found actually is the "Auto Body and Paint" group on Facebook...learned a ton there already and easy to bounce questions off of people.

    You're right, the term "Bondo" is just like the term "Kleenex"...it's a brand name that became a blanket term for a certain type of product. And yes, I've read actual Bondo brand fillers are trash. I decided to go with Evercoat Rage Gold Ultra after some research - sands easy, very minimal pin holes, and less shrinkage (because we all know that's no good), compared to actual Bondo. I haven't actually used any yet, but looking forward to see if I can tell the difference vs. Bondo. Also, fwiw, I'm using Evercoat Everglass as a fiberglass filler. Duraglas is kinda like the term Bondo, but for fiberglass reinforced fillers, as you probably know.

    Anywho, this is all new stuff to me. Nothing like diving right in and learning on the fly. That how I've done everything else automotive related anyway :thumbup:. Any and all suggestions are welcome!
     
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  30. Krazylegz1485
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    Krazylegz1485 Well-Known Member

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    Awesome. Sounds like you're well on your way to success.

    And for the record, this is the Duraglas I was referring to (and honestly haven't heard that one specifically as a blanket term, yet).

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    This is the stuff we used at the shop I worked at for a bit. For the few different kinds of "fiber" reinforced ones I've used, it seems like the most user friendly. Doesn't have what I would consider like noticeable "hairs" in it that can make spreading it smooth somewhat difficult, unlike some others. You can almost spread this stuff as nice as regular filler.
     
  31. joebush44
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    joebush44 Well-Known Member

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    Yep, that's the stuff. I thought it might be better to stay in the same Evercoat product line so I went with their version instead. Hopefully that wasn't a mistake. I'll find out how it works soon!
     
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  32. joebush44
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    A couple of before/after/in progress pics of the big crater. It still needs shaping, but it's pretty close. This Everglass surprisingly sands like butter!
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