Well my motor is now junk, but I did find a 01 2.5RS motor. My question is will it swap in just fine? I believe its a SOHC and mine is a DOHC, will this cause a problem? I'm still waiting to hear if its a EJ25D or EJ251. In any case, can a put my heads on it with no problems to make it DOHC, would it even be worth it? Thanks
yes, indeed it would it will raise the CR a little bit, as SOHC pistons are flat. It will be very peppy.
The provisions for your sensors will not be correct. I THINK someone on here has done this swap though, maybe one of the duluth folks, I dont remember though.
If they both use the same crank/cam sensors then you can use the whole sohc. I'm pretty sure the crank is the same.
I would see if you couldnt use your intake manifold on it, that would simplify wiring. I can look at the intake gaskets tomorrow and see if they bolt up the same.
as in plug and play? Just connect the 3 plugs by Tranny that goes into the car, or swap out motor harness with mine?
What's wrong with your DOHC 2.5L motor? The SOHC as a long block does drop into the engine bay. The things you have to worry about is that your DOHC intake manifold doesn't bolt onto the SOHC heads because the bolt pattern is different. Your DOHC runs different plugs on the intake mani harness than the SOHC. If it's a DOHC 2.5L NA motor you're looking for, you have a few option not limited to a 2.5RS. 97-99 Legacy 2.5GT/Legacy Outback motors are the same longblock. same for 97-98 Forester 2.5L NA. All are DOHC. A minor detail is that the '99 LGT/Outback 2.5L are phase2 block, crank/rods, with phase1 pistons/heads. Much better option to find the correct motor or rebuild your current motor.
my 2.5 spun a bearing or two (rod, crank, somethings F'ed). Ive been looking for a replacement DOHC but with no luck. Friend found the 2.5RS so hoping to get that working. And if I can get a little more zip with putting my heads and stuff on why not. But it all comes down to easiest and fastest way to get the car back onto the road. Also this is in my 98 Legacy GT DOHC 2.5L NA auto
found this while searching "the phase II pistons dont go past the deck surface like the phase I's, so your CR would go down" Anyone clarify this?
If you are going to swap it upgrade, if not just have someone rebuild your current engine. Buying someone else's time bomb doesn't sound like a good idea anyways. Spun bearings are very common, engine shops replace them and have running again all the time. Please less threads, more wrenching.
it's pretty straightforward. If you have both complete motors, you'll have pretty much everything you need. Grayguy here in duluth has a '98 LGT with an '01 RS motor in it. I think he had to get a bit creative with a couple things, but nothing too difficult.
Wouldnt the RS motor be an upgrade, even without putting DOHC heads on it? It will cost about the same to get RS motor as rebuild. With getting motor I wont be out 4-6weeks waiting for my motor to get done.
Is he on this Forum? If you know how to get a hold of him could you ask him what is needed to be done or what not please. Thanks
I guess if you consider 5-10 hp an upgrade.................. How much is it going to cost to get your phase II engine reliable now? If you were looking for a quick replacement why didn't you find a phase I from a junkyard, probably come with a sart up to a 90 day warranty.
This is from your other thread and the best advice for a quick cheap fairly reliable running car. Your head would bolt right up to a 2.2 block then you run your 2.5 intake and sensors, no wiring new head gaskets, water pump, tensioner and timing belt and you would be set. Also would be able to do with basic hand tools and an engine lift. I bet you could find a good 2.2 longblock for sale in the cities quicker than figuring out how to get a phase II wired up to a phase I harness/ecu.
Here I am. I put an 01' RS Sohc in my 98' LGT. I basically took the wiring harnesses from both intake manifolds and spliced them together, using about 80% of the EJ25D wiring. I had to change the injector wiring, the coil pack plug, the temp sensor wiring, and a few other random things that I don't remember. The main issue I had was the Idle Control valve (IAC) and throttle body(TB). On the 01' motor, the IAC is built into the throttle body, but on the 25D the valve bolts onto the side of the intake. And the wiring is different for both the Throttle position sensor(TPS) and the IAC. I decided to use the 25D IAC and TB. I whipped up a block off plate to go between the TB and intake mani because the ports for the IAC weren't covered by the 25D TB. I also had to fabricate the piping/flanges to make the IAC work. I ended up making it so that the Valve sat in the same spot as on a stock 25D, and went into the air intake where it's supposed to, and into the Intake manifold right on top through the hole where the intake air temp sensor mounts on the 01' RS motor. It all sounds kinda complicated when I write it out haha. I'll see if I have any pics...
If you use your heads on the 2.2 it wont lose that much HP, 10-15 max, and it will be better for boosting later. The 2.2 has a slightly smaller bore, and a shorter stroke, it will wind up quick, you'll like it. We had a tech do this exact swap into a forester that needed a shortblock, he said he couldnt tell the difference, and he POUNDS on cars.
^ I would take his advice, used 2.5 short blocks seem to be too unreliable, next time one of our 2.5 goes boom it'll just get a 2.2 short block or an eg33 swap depending on what we want to spend at the time.
wait....what? 2.2 heads have a smaller quench volume than 2.5 heads. This is why using a 2.5 block with 2.2 heads will bump the compression (and displacement over a standard 2.2), and give great torque. You're trying to tell me, that putting a 2.2 shortblock in place of a 2.5 (lower compression AND displacement), is going to yield the same power as the stock 2.5 that was in there? huh?
