2001 2.5RS NA 4EAT swap to 93 Legacy 5MT

Can I use my current driveshaft from the 4EAT?

 

I believe they are too short.

 

You would be correct.

 

The Impreza 4EAT drive shaft is about 1.5" too short and the Legacy 5spd drive shaft is about 1" too long. I found out the hard way. You might want to contact fuji and atleast compare your current driveshaft to the GD one he has for length.

 

Findings:

1. ABS can be retained by keeping the TCU connected and shorting out a couple pins to make it think it's in neutral.

2. Cruise can be kept by wiring the through the tranny rather than straight shorting it out.

Reverse lights can also be wired in (VERY important since my rear window limo tint is HARD to see out of at night, OMFG!).

 

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/electrical.html
http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1841

 

haha! I never even thought about the reverse lights. Mine always keep breaking (stuff lying around my trunk) and I never noticed that they didnt work after I did the swap.

 

LOL.

I'm considering a major upgrade to my reverse lights, given the mad tint.

Super-bright LED's for one. For two, I want to see about a custom LED light bar in the spoiler that alternates super-bright reds and super-bright whites for braking & reverse, respectively.


Wiring isn't sounding to hard - other than not being able to get the connectors to play with, meaning I'm probably going to have to chop up what I've got (would MUCH rather buy new connectors and do all the wiring hacks off-line prior to install).

Bielke55 has been a tremendous help providing wiring diagrams, also found some full Impreza Factory Service Manuals online (can't recall URL at the moment - will edit and add later).

SVX Network also appears to have more info, since the only way to get an MT on an SVX (it seems) is to do a swap. Still digging through all the stuff over there.

 

It's on.

It's on. Friday - by the afternoon she'll be coming apart.

So, the mechanic wasn't able to help with a space to work.

But, my aunt is going to let me use her garage. No impact drivers, air compressors, etc. but a much more comfortable place for me to rip my car apart, since if it gets stuck there at least it's at a family member's house.

I'll be taking Friday as a vacation day from work and reserving Monday, too, in case of an emergency.

STi tranny mount isn't going to happen quickly enough. Seeing how all this is done, though, I think I could swap that later by myself inside an afternoon.

Heck, I was lucky to even get the flywheel bolts since Morrie's didn't have them in stock (big thanks to the guy who rounded some up for me!!).

I did, however, buy some new stuff to ensure the project goes smoothly.

These are the items I will bring with:

• All the parts for the car, obviously
• Notebook PC with files and maybe some print-outs of all the how-to's on this project including some FSM's. Maybe Mitchell OnDemand, too.
• Full socket and rachet set
• 15 inch breaker with 1/2" drive
• Racheting screwdriver with full tip set
• Plain phillips and slothead screwdrivers (for prying)
• Cordless drill (fairly decent one)
• Hammer (regular old wood handle metal head)
• Side cutters
• Pliers
• Soldering iron & solder, wires, wire stripper, shrink wrap, butane mini torch, electrical tape, crimp connectors, etc.
• Subaru scissor jack
• 12 Ton, 16"+ bottle jack
• 4 x 3 ton jack stands (21" max)
• 4 pack of racheting tie downs (300lb safe, 900lb break)
• A couple misc. wood blocks
• Oil catch pan (7 qt or something).
• Halogen floor lamp
• Dual-halogen stand lamp
• Several trouble lights
• Lots of spare bulbs
• Gojo
  
• Anything else I think of later that needs to be brought

I believe there are a couple ramps, jack stands, and a rolling hydraulic jack at the garage.

We could probably use another jack or two to make sure we have enough to manipulate the trannies easily.


The underside of my car is in astounding shape. Minimal rust, no grease or dirt. It will be a pleasure to work on compared to most daily driven cars and I don't anticipate much of anything being "stuck".

 

? for anyone::

So, there are absolutely no seals that are going to need to be replaced during this process?

No seal around the bell housing or on the exhaust?

Seems like there would be, but so far I'm hearing no.

Also, I picked up flywheel bolts tonight. Do I need pressure plate bolts too?

 

Okay, so the project starts tomorrow.

We'll be at :

Ewing Ave S & W 42nd St
Minneapolis, MN 55410

Will be in a garage in the alley between Ewing and Drew, and 42nd and 41st.

Anyone in the area is welcome to pop in and for look if they want.

I'm expecting we'll be there most of the day Friday and some of the day Saturday, but it'll just depend on how quickly it goes and how early we start Friday.

 

Ill be over around 4-5 oclock after work

 

wow I just mapquested this bitch and you are three miles away from southdale. I'll be over there at 5 on the nutz

 

Awesome. You guys are the sh***.

Tim, when you coming with the rear end?

 

I am going to be out of town this weekend or else I would drop in and lend a hand. Looks like you have gotten pretty much all you need.

if you drop the exhaust as a whole piece you wont need to replace any exhuast gaskets. Aslo there are no gaskets between the bell housing and the block. You should be good to go.

It might be scary lowering the 4eat with a bottle jack, very tippy. Make sure some one is there to help. Also you "can" put the 5spd in without a jack, but it is very difficult and tricky. But it can be done, I have seen Fuji do it. (Fuji = amazing)

 

I keep hearing FujiK=amazing.

I should also have a couple of regular hydraulic jacks on hand, too. Picked up the bottle jack as an extra.

Thanks for all the info on how to do this, too.

 

Judging by everyone's schedule, I'll probably be diving into the wiring first while I'm waiting for people to arrive.


FSM FTMFW, y0!!

 

I will take a couple more pics and add them to th How-To tomorrow AM. Hopefully they will be of use.

 

Check your email, I sent you my how to with a few more pics in it. let me know if it helps.

 

This looks like fun, good luck man. I helped do this on an L wagon and it was a bit more involved than I thought. We somehow stripped out the speedometer cable coming out of the tranny and now his car has no speedo lol.

Is that a cable clutch I see? The manual 01 RS comes with a hydro clutch, I don't think it'll be a big deal though, unless you were looking to do an aftermarket HD clutch swap later on down the line to hold more power or whatever. Pedal pressure will be really hardcore on a heavy duty clutch if you use a cable clutch. Not that hard to go hydro later if you want to though.

Was the 93 legacy a cable (mechanical) or wire (electrical) speedo? You should probably look into that. The 01 RS is a wire speedo and your speedo will not work if the tranny is a cable type. I'm not sure but I think you can just screw in the sender unit from a wire setup tranny and hook up the connector to that.

I almost wanna stop by to see how you guys are doing and maybe lend a hand, but I might be busy tomorrow. I'll see.

 

Yeah, cable clutch. Seems fine for now. I'm running stock NA 2.5L and it will probably be a while before I can do much for more power (STi swap eventually, I think).

I think it is a cable speedo tranny - there's some big fat thick wire/cable looking thing coming out of it that was clipped. I have read that you can put the sender from the auto in it and keep the speedo.

I certainly welcome you to stop by. Not sure how far we'll get tomorrow - hopefully through the vast majority of the mechanical stuff, leaving interior and wiring for me, since right now I have no help lined up for Saturday.

As a reminder, this is where we'll be:

 

I forgot to mention this. You should be able to remove the speedo sender (17mm box end wrench I think) and just srew it right into the new transmission. That is what I did, seems to work out alright. Dont loose any of the little bits that pop out when you unscrew the sender.

 

Excellent. I had read that over on NASIOC or rs25 or somewhere, but like pretty much all the posts regarding a tranny swap there isn't much that's specific and definitive.

 

Got a start tonight.

Here's a shot of the workspace, some of the tools including the floor jack that was in the garage, and the car once I got it up on jack stands.

Drained the 4EAT and the front diff. Couldn't break those rear diff plugs for nothing, though (forgot my longer 1/2" drive bar).

Used diff oil smells funny, and the super fine metal mixed with the oil that's on the drain plug is interesting (there was more of it than I expected).

 

Lookin good so far. Make sure to try an not get any of that old ATF on you, it smells terrible and is kind of sticky/slippery.

 

beautiful, this is going to be slot of fun. I'll we you around 5:45 man! Give
me a call, Eric

 

Don't think I have your number. Just head over. Or call me.

 

Alright, I'm leaching off someone's unsecured wireless that's within range of the garage.

Rear diff is drained.

Just cracked the 6 bolts on the exhaust headers (thank god a 9/16" is close to 14mm - I have a 1/2" drive breaker, but most of my sockets are 3/8" and I seem to have no 1/2" to 3/8" step down.

Center console's out.

Changing the pedal box looks strange. I'm probably just not seeing how it all goes.

No help until later this afternoon.

 

The pedal box is a big pain. you will need to get into the car upside down pretty much to get at the nuts. There should be 4 of them that connect the pedal box to the firewall and to the brake booster on the other side. 12mm I think. huge pain, i think I used a 1/4" ratchet, short extension and a 12mm wrench. as those bolts are hard to reach. toake lots of patience and a flexible back. you will get frustrated, I did.

 

Do I have to worry about getting air in my brakes when messing with the pedal box?

Doesn't seem like it, but want to avoid it if it's possible to do, since I just did a full brake fluid flush & bleed like last week.

 

if you do get air in your lines we can bleed
them. Don't struggle to get the boxnout just so you dont have to bleed your lines.

 

True. I got a Mityvac and figured out how to use it pretty well for a one-man bleed anyway.


Wondering if this is an uh-oh? Instead of the nut coming loose the whole bolt came out. Doesn't look like it sheared off, though. Looks like it'll just screw back in.

 

See, I would've assumed things like these would need to be replaced. I guess not, though?

 

Nope you are only touching the bolts that connect the pedal box tot he fire wall, which are also the same as the bolts which hold the brake booster tot he firewall. You will not let any air into the system at all by toying with them. dont worry about it. If you cut a brake line then you will have something to worry about.

Thats fine. The stud came out with the nut, when you are re-assembling just put the whole thing back in like a bolt.

You could replace them if you wanted too. I have not replaced mine at all, and I have had the exhaust manifold off atleast 10 times, I still dont have any leaks. Just make sure to put them back in and you will be fine.

 

What dynapar said you will be fine with the rusty bolts. The bolts at the end of the header connecting to the cat are kind of pains in the ass. Mme sure you use two wrenches or else it will free spin forever

Oh wait nvm just take your whole exhaust off it will be easier to get at the drivetrain. Also

Stock headers mmmm:yumyum:

 

Exhaust is already out in one piece. Removing heat shields now. REALLY want to try to find a way to get them all back in if it's at all possible. Dynapar's write up says the 5MT crossmember doesn't have holes for em. Maybe we can make some? Guess I won't really be able see until we get the 5MT in there.

Stock headers FTL. I can haz rubblez?


Also, kind of a significant snag. EJ22Tim said he'd be here at noon. Then at 4:20 in the morning I got a PM saying he had to pick someone up at the airport at 2pm. Now it's nearly 4:20pm and no sign - cell phone's off.

Biggest problem with that is he's supposed to bring the rear diff + axles. That's going to be a show-stopper, and with no help lined up for tomorrow I might find myself fairly f***d.

/rant

(just feeling a bit nervous now - it'll be bad if the weekend ends with lots left to do I kinda need this driveable Monday and I'm quickly approaching the point of no return)

 

mike (holster) I talked to him today when he came to southdale he said to give him. Shout when I head over so that. Possibly one more
man. If worst comes to worst and we get your car all apart will you be
able to drive another car for a few days until we getit finished? Or if not and tim doesn't come through well just put your exhast back on and well do it next week.

 

I think we can get awfully far without the new rear.

Should be able to get all the way up to the flywheel, clutch, pedal box, 5MT all installed leaving only the driveshaft, rear, and rear axles left.

I think I'm far enough into it now that I'm committed to finishing, even if it takes an extra day or two.

 

Pedal box is out. Not too tough, but there was some electronics mounted to it that will need a new home

 

:wavey: got jumbled up today and I has broken car

 

Need the rear diff & axles for sure. You need a ride or something?

9blackmax6 just got here and we're pulling the axles out as I put the new(old) pedal box in.

 

New pedal box is in. Starting on some wiring.

Slow going though, could definitely use another person or two.

Cotter pins are killing us. Arg.

 

got the cotter pins out! now onto the control arms

 

Just got the first axle out - front driver's side!!


Yay!!

 

driveshafts out tranny's next! making progress every second.. bottle jack here we come.