Save money and headache by re-booting/rebuilding your own axles, instead of buying remanufactured ones that are likely to fail in short order. you will need a couple specialty tools to complete the project that you wouldn't need for the removal of the axle. These are a snapring pliers and a CV Boot clamp tool. with some patience and cussing, the snapring can be removed without the tool, but the cost is worth it, even if you only use it once. the clamp tool can be rented from some stores. Both are readily available at any auto parts store for less than $10 each: DSCF0669 by Numbchux, on Flickr you'll also want a roll of paper/shop towels nearby. as there's a lot of grease in there that'll need to be cleaned out. and a good hand cleaner and a solvent. NOTE: it is possible to replace only the DOJ/SFJ boot (on the tranny/diff side), but it's only about 5-10 minutes extra work and $5-10 extra cost to replace the outer while you're at it. whereas you have to do the whole project to replace the outer boot. so just do it while you're at it, and then you don't have to worry about it! first, remove the axle. This is a fairly common topic, and write-ups for your specific subaru can be found all over the internet. once you've got the axle out, and on the bench (or the floor....). Start the disassembly. DSCF0664 by Numbchux, on Flickr now you'll need to remove the clamps: DSCF0665 by Numbchux, on Flickr For future reference, this inner joint, with the squared off cups is a DOJ (double-offset joint) or SFJ (Shuderless Freering tripod Joint) on newer models. both of these designs allow the axle to telescope, and change length a bit. this can be done with a cutoff wheel, tin snips, but I prefer to pry the clamp apart with a chisel or screwdriver: DSCF0667 by Numbchux, on Flickr This outer joint is a CVJ (Constant Velocity Joint), it does not telescope, but does allow higher angles without binding. DSCF0668 by Numbchux, on Flickr now pull the boot back from the axle cup: DSCF0671 by Numbchux, on Flickr ewwww....that grease is very contaminated and worn out. once most of the grease is cleaned out, use a screwdriver (or tip of a pliers, or even a pen...) to pry the circlip out of the axle cup: DSCF0672 by Numbchux, on Flickr then pull the joint out of the axle cup: DSCF0675 by Numbchux, on Flickr now, if your joint looks like this, you have an SFJ, which doesn't need to be disassembled. skip the next few steps to pulling the snapring off: 2017-08-04_10-14-35 by Numbchux, on Flickr here are the components of a DOJ, cleaned, layed out, and labeled: DSCF0681 by Numbchux, on Flickr wipe some of the grease off, and then rock the retainer back and forth to force the balls out: DSCF0676 by Numbchux, on Flickr once all 6 balls are out, rotate the retainer a bit, and slip it off the inner race onto the shaft: DSCF0677 by Numbchux, on Flickr then use your snapring pliers to remove the snapring: DSCF0678 by Numbchux, on Flickr DSCF0679 by Numbchux, on Flickr then you can slide the inner race off the shaft. at this point, be sure to take note of which side goes where. the first time I did this, I used a couple dabs of white-out on one side of the race and retainer so I knew how it went. now slide both boots off the shaft. now comes the task of cleaning out the CVJ. this is a little more difficult, as it cannot easily be disassembled (I know it's possible....but I've never done it without destroying it). this one is pretty nasty, dried up and crusted with dirt. DSCF0682 by Numbchux, on Flickr I prefer to work some petroleum based hand cleaner (like Goop or Gojo......make sure to get the petroleum version. easiest way to tell is look at the directions for use. if step one is something like "do not wet hands", you've got the right stuff), and work that into the joint: DSCF0683 by Numbchux, on Flickr then rinse it repeatedly with a solvent (gas works....if nothing else) DSCF0684 by Numbchux, on Flickr once cleaned out, you should be able to move it around fairly easily. don't be alarmed if it binds up while dry. it takes quite a lot to damage these irreparably, once you've worked some grease in there, it should free up quite a bit. now to put it back together. fill the CVJ with grease (go ahead and use the whole pack), and then slide the boot on the shaft. then the small clamp. next slide the other smaller clamp, and the inner boot. now slide the retainer on, followed by the inner race (make sure both are facing the right direction....remember those marks you made?). then install the snapring, and re-assemble the retainer and 6 balls (again, not necessary if you have an SFJ). DSCF0202 by Numbchux, on Flickr put the joint into the axle cup, and re-install the circlip. now, open your other pack of grease and put a bunch in the axle cup, and the rest in the boot. slide the boot onto the cup, seat the boots in the indents on the shaft/cups for the clamps. now install and tighten the clamps. and you're done! DSCF0203 by Numbchux, on Flickr now move the joints through their range of motion repeatedly to work the grease into the joints. re-install in the car. and enjoy!
Great write up my friend. I don't miss those days at all, where was this a few years ago in cold MN winter. LOL I think the most fustrating part for me was trying to get the steel band on tight enough so the boot doesn't come off and the grease seeps out. ewww Thnx for taking the time to write it up and great pictures by the way.
Nice write-up Chux. Have you tried the pipe trick? It actually works quite well. I had to do it when I put my STi CV onto my regular axle by mistake. Otherwise I used the tool I made, which I showed in my build thread.
I have not tried that. that's pretty sweet! every time I've tried it, there's been some sort of side load on it. so, yea.....not good. I might go downstairs and see if I have a pipe that would work with this XT6 shaft and give it a try.
awesome write up! I'm in the middle of doing this right now and you're write up is much needed. Quick question though; is there anything holding the axle in on the tranny side? I have everything apart and the only thing left is to get the axle out of the tranny, but I can't seem to figure out how.
probably should have researched a bit before doing it things changed a bit over the years. but if it's a 5MT, it's probably got a spring pin holding it to the stub axle in the trans. you'll need a 3/16" punch to remove that pin, and then you'll be able to slide it out.
Yeah no kidding. I didn't look anything up, I just figured how hard can it be? And let me tell you, it's hard! This write up will save me though. Again, much thanks. I will try the punch tomorrow, I did notice there was a hole all the way through the axle so I'm assuming that is where this pin is. you're a lifesaver chux
If your axle has been open for a while, it might not be able to be saved, if you dont have time, keep some grease packed into the open boot, it will prolong its life for a little while at least.
Super sweet write up for how to repack and reboot your axle joints. The trick is to catch a torn boot right away and then you can repack and reboot so the axle joints are saved. The tell tale sign is sticky nasty grease flung out all around the boot area. For a CV it's typicall right down there near the knuckle and suspension. A quick peak under the car, looking at your CV boot will usually clue you in... one side will look kinda dirty and the otherside will look like it's been painted in chocolate; a thick nasty mess. Now for the DOJs they fling grease up into the engine bay. You'll find a nice line of grease on your intake pipes, vent hoses, elec. wires, or other stuff directly above your DOJ's boot. Sometimes (like on first gen Legacys) you'll even see a neat trail of grease flung on the inside of your hood. I wonder where the point of no return is though. Of course as soon as I changed one axle the other one starts clicking the next week =P However it's still at that stage where it rarely clicks only on tight turns... salvageable by repacking? Ever repacked / rebooted one that's started clicking? How long did it last before it really wore out? Usually at this stage I just go to the junkyard and get another one =)
I've had some pretty nasty ones saved with some fresh grease. when I did the RX trans in my loyale, a grabbed a pair of 25 spline axles from a turbo wagon at upull. the joints were in terrible shape. all 4 boots were torn, and the joints were completely dried out. got them home, cleaned them out really well, rebuilt them, and drove them for 20k before I went 5-lug. they're still in my shed. never had the slightest problem. I wouldn't have trusted a NAPA reman to last that long
Finally got mine apart today. I've been working 12hr days and haven't had time to continue work on this. Everything is cleaned and the underside of the car and engine bay are all cleaned. Tomorrow I'm hoping to get everything back together. For the record, mine were a little different looking.
Great writeup... I have been meaning to ask you how quick are you with replacing boots? specifically driver side front outer one? I'd be willing to pay you to help me.
I've gotten pretty good at it, unfortunately. which car? the tleg? the biggest bitch is getting it out of the car....so who knows.
Yea the tleg..... while doing the clutch I've found quite a few things that have needed replacement. I checked all the boots during the winter and this one failed before I parked it.
So finally today I got the car put back together. Although now it pulls very hard to the left and seems like the wheel has positive camber. What could have caused this? Do I need an alignment or is this something I can fix myself?
I unbolted the lower strut bolts to be able to swing the hub far enough away to pull the axle out. My understanding was these were just simple holes, not adjustable bolt holes for camber adjustment.
nope, those are definitely the camber adjustment. which is why I don't touch them if I don't have to. although a little camber (there isn't a ton of adjustment) wouldn't make the car pull.
