I'm going to be doing the timing belt and such on a 2002 wrx. I'm looking to see what everybody else has done with locking the cams when replacing the timing belt. I'm not doing anything with the cam seals. I know Co. 23 makes a locking tool for like $50 plus shipping. I was hoping you guys would have another solution. The tricks I have used in the past wont work on a Subie. Any ideas, hints, tips would be welcomed. Thanks
I don't recall using any special tools (other than Blackozone) when doing my timing belt last summer.
Get a paint marker or crayon, mark the belt/cam/crank in two places for each cam and crank. Transfer the marks to the new belt, line up the new belt with the cams and crank and boo ya, Panda Express!
I dont remember needing one when i did mine. just do this: http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/diy-subaru-wrx-sti-timing-12617.html
Subaru has cam marks on each cam you just need to line up its very simple to do and no special tools needed.
No, My DOHC experiences has been with domestics. But the majority of my engine experience has been single cam, chain driven engines Chry 318's, Ford 351's, Chevy 350's, Chry (jeep) I-6's. I'm familiar with the timing marks on the cams. I got a taste of the Subaru timing belt system last summer when I did my sisters boyfriends Water Pump. But he has a Legacy Outback with a SOHC. I've seen You Tube clips of the DOHC belt replacement with out a "locking" device, Looks easy enough, but the engines were out on stands. Everything is easier when its out on a stand. I guess I'm paranoid about messing it up seeing as how its my DD, only mode of transportation and I don't have "new engine money" laying around. I'm not afraid to admit when it comes to Subaru's I'm a Newb. When I looked in to how its done on the WRX engine, Company 23's "cam lock" tool kept showing up so I think I just assumed you should lock the cams if you were not doing anything with them. For me doing anything with timing and interference engines gets me a bit nervous. It's not an every day thing I deal with. More so when its my only ride and x2 when theres more than 1 cam involved and I have minimal experience with that type of engine. If you guys are able to do this without an (OMG you NEED this stupidly expensive tool because you will seriously die without it, why because we said so now buy our stuff) Tool Then Im sure I can too.
im sure it helps keep things held in place while your routing the belt through all the various pulleys and the tensioner. I just had a extra set of hands when I did mine that helped but know plenty of people that have done it solo and when it was inside the car ontop of it. All in all would the tool be nice sure if you want to spend the money. Do you need it no.
A lock tool is handy for getting the pulley bolts loose, but you shouldn't have to do that just to change the timing belt.
Thanks all for the responses! I plan on tackling this Sunday, without spending money on an OMG you NEED this stupidly expensive tool because you will seriously die without it why because we said so now buy our stuff ........ Tool.
Get yourself a 10 mm allen wrench to rotate and hold the cam gears in place. Have you pulled the timing cover off and taken a peek to see if any of the cam seals are leaking?
[Yup!E="whitey, post: 754624, member: 5156"]Get yourself a 10 mm allen wrench to rotate and hold the cam gears in place. Have you pulled the timing cover off and taken a peek to see if any of the cam seals are leaking?[/QUOTE] Yup! I looked everything over best I could including cam seals. All appears to be good. I wasnt able to swap stuff out today like I planned, but I'm hoping Thursday. I looked over the current belt and was kinda suprised how good it seems to be. No glazing or obvious cracks and the markings were still there.
GOT IT DONE!!! Thanks guys for the confidence of not needing fancy tools. It was Straight forward and not difficult for the most part. The two hardest parts were the crank bolt and my paranoia of making sure all the timing marks were perfect. Must have obsessed over it about a dozen times before pulling the tensioner pin.
