Chevy 4.3/4L60 swap into Toyota truck

Discussion in 'FS: Everything else' started by Chux, May 13, 2020.

  1. Chux

    Chux Well-Known Member

    Likes Received:
    Trophy Points:
    I still need a few things, so it's not available, but I suspect finding someone to buy it as a package will not be easy, so I'm starting early, and casting a wide net.

    Pulled this out of my '87 4Runner. Engine and transmission originally came from a '92 S10 Blazer, it had hit a deer, and already been partially parted out when I got it, and didn't have a gauge cluster. I was told it had about 150k miles on it. This is the Central Port Fuel Injected, early "Vortec" 4.3. And 4L60 transmission ('92 means non-electric, identical to 700r4, but technically called a 4L60).

    The good.
    Great compression, no knocking or anything like that. I took a couple videos of it running the day before I pulled it out. I also have pictures of the compression tests from the last time I was messing with it backed up on my desktop.
    I've put maybe 1k miles on it since I did the swap 8 years ago.
    LOTs of new parts, oxygen sensor, spark plugs, timing chain, HD water pump, serp belt, A/C bypass pulley, idler pulley and fuel lines in the manifold all done with the swap. Since then, new coolant temp sensor, injector "spider" assembly, distributor, custom MSD plug wires, IAT sensor, etc.
    Advance adapters transfer case adapter, motor mount adapters, and blockhugger headers (headers painted with POR15 Hi-temp paint).
    Custom power steering hose with Chevy fitting on one end and Toyota on the other
    '86 Toyota gear driven top-shift RF1A transfer case, standard 21-spline input
    4Crawler 2" motor mount spacers.
    My combination of radiator hoses (upper one with a T and reducer to attach the heater hose)
    Wiring stripped and modified for custom standalone installation (I will be keeping my body side Toyota plugs, but I will label the wires before I cut them).
    USB adapter hardwired to view and log ECU data via tunerpro (and the correct definition files)
    Includes factory electrical and transmission manual, and an aftermarket manual (Chilton's, I think?)
    Aftermarket (B&M?) shifter cable, with associated bracketry for the transmission side. I'm reusing the body side stuff for my new setup.
    The Toyota tcase adapter required a new output shaft in the transmission, I had that installed at a transmission shop, and he replaced several parts as needed when he had it apart. Not a full rebuild, but should be good for many miles.

    This will all bolt right into an '86-'95 22R/E/TE truck or 4Runner. To use the motor mount spacers, a 2" or more body lift is required. With this, the oil pan *just* clears the IFS front diff. This could also be done with a bracket lift instead of the body lift, or a custom oil pan. Will bolt into an '84-'85 truck with the solid front axle, but I can't speak to front diff clearance.

    It will not *quite* clear the hood.
    by Numbchux, on Flickr

    New Fuel lines will need to be made, I had relocated the gas tank to the driver's side for unrelated reasons, so my fuel lines are all different. I had to cut one heater hose to remove it....but just bulk 5/8" hose is all that's needed there.

    A CSF 3-row radiator for the 4Runner and generic slim electric fan was plenty to cool this (not included, plan to use it with the new engine).

    The bad:
    Has a mysterious running issue. Starts very hard (little burst of starting fluid and it starts right up), stumbles and hesitates, occasionally stalls, sometimes will not restart. Symptoms are very intermittent, and diagnosing it completely baffled me (hence all the new parts). I wired this same engine up in an old Jeep at about the same time that ran great, but I can't figure this one out. My theory, is that due to the shape of these headers, I cannot run the LH knock sensor (unique to this style engine), the information about that error code suggests it will just disable the knock function, but that may not be correct. Maybe you're smarter than me, or know more about this system, and can get it to run right. Or, throw a Speeduino (or other standalone) on it, and delete all the stock stuff.

    Transmission pan leaks. Had to put a dent in the rear corner to clear the front driveshaft, might not help.

    Shifting from Hi to Lo range in the transfer case is a bit of a dance with the transmission. In neutral, the transmission does put a bit of torque on the input shaft of the tcase, so it will spin and grind before you can get it in gear. Have to put it in park, let the truck roll just enough to engage the parking prawl, but not enough to load up the drivetrain.

    Looking to sell it all at once. Asking $1000. Once the dust settles on my life (hopefully this summer), if I still have this, I'll separate. But at that point, most of these things will go on ebay and fetch much more money.

    by Numbchux, on Flickr

    by Numbchux, on Flickr

Share This Page