I don't see how you can try to play the victim here, honestly. You listed your issues, and the set up, people identified the issue... two of which work at Minnetonka Subaru and see it directly in the Subaru community at its most public level. There have been plenty of scientific tests showing the oil's break down, more than enough of us that have even changed M1 after a couple thousand miles and witnessed it coming out like water, and yet this isn't reason enough. How do you think the rod bearings wore in the first place? is this some ancient alien technology that's gone wrong?
The noise was diagnosed with the videos, the issue is there, the cause has been identified. I don't know what else you want here.
subarus, by nature make some noise upon start up, especially in colder weather. having water for oil isnt going to help anything
The noise you have? absolutely, but the damage is done. that slightly louder "slapping" and "knocking" noise is super common in boxer engines in colder weather due to design and layout. But when you run stuff that's known to be crap, its not going to help anything, and in this case hurt it. Its like that stupid slogan, put good in, get good out. That wasn't the case here. Simply stated, M1 is like water, and in an engine that has natural oiling differences to other designs, you're just adding insult to injury with oil that's functioning like water with some coca cola in it.
my fingers and eyes are high technology (possibly ancient alien technologies)...so trust me, I'm a doctor.
Well that would require a lot of pictures so you understand the findings... plus I don't think there is enough science in there for you to believe it in the first place.
I'm pretty sure they were posted on here before (the comparison that is) but I'm entirely too unmotivated to search for that right now. I THINK Russ might have posted it before. Funniest thing about M1, Euro Car formula. its INSANELY expensive and broke down super fast as well. Ran that once in my buddy's Jetta, that was enough.
this came up in the Leggy forums after 3 seconds of searching, directly Subaru related, directly M1 related. Look specifically at the copper, still not sure about M1?
I have about 15 readouts from my 06wrx that look similar (but worse). No way im scanning them and posting them when the point has been made ad nauseum on here and on bitog.com The Sti on amsoil synth and castrol dino looked much better. Got 4k plus miles out of both of those oils despite 3-4 autoxs and tons of logging/high speed full boost pulls on each change. Also, still loling at mature curly is maturerer
like I said, its been well documented and covered. And Sheen, I'm still immature, don't you worry about that.
Sheen, log into their site and they are in PDF. Look look I got one too... "KURT: The universal averages show typical wear for the Subaru 2.0L 4-cylinder after 4,400 miles of oil use. Your oil was in use for 2,800 miles and most wear looked good in comparison. Copper, from bronze parts, was high. This could be from poor wear at a bushing or another bronze/brass part. We've heard rumors about Mobil 1 causing higher metals in this engine--have you read these threads on Subaru forums? Usually we don't think oil type will change wear, but it's possible. If you want, try another oil. But 12 ppm is not a major issue, and all else looks good. Check back." Switched to Rotella T next change. Two years/50k later and copper is at 3 ppm. Don't know much about RP, I pick up my oil at Fleet Farm. Good luck with your knock and stuff.
Max, The knock you have is Rod Knock. No oil, no matter what weight, brand, synthetic or not, will not fix it. You have a badly worn rod bearing, and it will continue to get worse the more you drive it. Call me as mean or immature as you want, but you did ask a question, and it seems you got the answers you weren't looking to hear. IF you still want an answer to how else to diagnose your noise, pull your engine, heads, oil pan, and all engine components. Pull your pistons, and grab each connecting rod where the wrist pin goes through. Pull and push the rod, if you can feel any looseness, that's the bearing or bearings that are bad. Easier yet, just pull the pan. If it looks like you could mine it for gold, order a block. Then very closely inspect cams, and heads for scoring and grooving, as if you have already done damage, you better order those too. Then get a new oil pump, and oil cooler, and anything else that engine oil travels through, as you won't be able to get the metal fragments out.
