EG in a GG by Eazy

Hi All,

I've met a few of you from the forum over the last year since I've been gathering parts and building my wagon. Others may have seen random pictures that I've thrown up on here from time to time, but I am finally putting it all in one place. This is a low budget build so expect a lot of used parts and much imperfection.

So I rescued this 2002 Impreza Outback Sport 5 speed from the depths of Stewartville, MN where it apparently roamed the corn fields (literally from all the dirt I am still pulling out of it) until it turned it’s bearings. $600 later I had it in my garage.

The previous owner decided to tape the tail lights together which I can only assume was so that he didn’t get pulled over when he occasionally drove it on the road between cornfields.

Pretty much every corner of this car had been caved in at some point. The driver’s side fender was no exception.


The interior was very greasy, smokey, and very stock.

Eventually my friend and I dropped an EJ25D block paired with EJ251 heads into it that we picked up. I also picked up front seats from a 05 RS and 2002 WRX wheels. The following image shows the 1.5-2 inch lift that forester springs provided.

At this point in time I decided to sell my truck (and the payment that came with it) and rely on the mighty “Black Knight” as my daily driver.

Spring of 2014 I picked up some fenders that were off a 2002 WRX and they ended up matching pretty well.

With some encouragement I picked up a 1992 Subaru SVX to be a donor for an EG33 swap (3.3L H6). We were able to drive the SVX around 30 miles back to my place with only having to fight with a blown rear tire.




Since then I have been planning the attack on EG33 swap. I recently began the work of pulling the franken EJ251D.

Decided to go with a 4.44 drivetrain so I picked up a 5MT from a Forester along with a 4.44 rear diff and axles.

So I removed the entire drive-train.

While I was at it the front U-Frame was rusted pretty badly.


To replace this I worked with a scrapper in California and besides shipping being rather expensive on a part this size the price I thought was reasonable at $125.

 

I also had some STi springs that I got from a member who was moving out of state so I decided to replace the forester springs with these. (paired with KYB WRX Wagon struts from another MNSubaru member)

I also grabbed some blue STi carpeting from him to get rid of the remaining smoke and corn field smell. Also seen below are 2002 WRX door cards.

Replaced the rear seat with one from a 2002 WRX wagon. (I know I need new floor mats)

Somewhere along the lines I picked up some front brakes from upull that were about 1 inch larger than my stock ones so I threw those on also.

I recently upgraded to a cluster from a 2006 WRX manual. You’ve got to love the drop in replacement.

This past weekend I got around to finishing installing the drive-train.



I pulled my front bumper off in anticipation of having to move the radiator to fit the EG33. In doing so I found some serious rust on the front bumper. (I had grinded and primed it in this photo)



I thought this would be the perfect time to test out my 3M rubberized undercoating spray which worked pretty well. I am going to coat my U-Frame in this stuff once it arrives.

So next is going to be lots of wiring and then finally dropping in the EG33. I am currently going to get it running with the SVX ECU but I am also installing a Megasquirt harness.


I will be updating this thread as I have progressed.


Thanks for reading,
-Eazy

 

Cool! I like the EG33.

 

Thanks! I did replace both tail lights (they were both broken). Ordered them from a Junk yard in PA.

 

What ECU are you running? Do you have a build thread?

 

Anyone interested in doing an EG33 swap this guy from Maine documented most of his swap with videos.

Also @needboxer is documenting technical details with this project.

 

This is awesome. If I had a garage and heaps of patience I would love to eg swap my 97 obs that is currently marooned in the driveway.

 

I see a few of ny old parts are up to some gehella fun good!!

Keep it up evan!!

 

This is awesome. Franken-sub.

 

Tonight I will be putting new bushings on my 17mm rear sway bar (upgraded to a stock WRX sway bar from the 13mm bar that came stock) and replacing the front and rear endlinks.

I also picked up a 2002 WRX flywheel from @Trevor Philips that I just had machined.

Along with an 03 WRX Clutch that I think also made its way to me from @yuseforester.


Then I am taking the dash apart and making room for the new wiring harness.

 

what did it run you to get the flywheel resurfaced?

 

$30 at Southern Minnesota (connected to Auto Value) here in Rochester.

 

Seriously? Scharf charged me $50.

 

Haha yeah, Headwerks charged me $60...I felt stupid after I realized how much they overcharged.

 

Is that the Dakota Digital tach signal divider?

 

nope. This one:
http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_tsd/


I did a group buy about the time idget was finishing his swap

 

Nice, looks like that will save me about $40.

 

Yep. Been used in several subarus, for different reasons. Works great.


Not the right signal for the digidash in my turbo 4Runner....but that's not it's fault.

 

Can you explain the multiplier that you have to pick for the TSD?

 

Manufacturer response:

What multiplier do I need?
This might not be a simple answer, and we certainly can't answer this for you. If you are unsure, all we can say is that you should purchase the ATSDr (Adjustable TSDr) module, which has most of the common settings that you might need.

To determine which multiplier you need, the best way is for you to figure out by what factor your tachometer is currently reading incorrectly. If the tachometer is reading 50% higher (or 1.5x) than what it should, you would need a x2/3 multiplier to correct it. If it is reading 1/2 of what it should you would need a x2, and so on. You can also make an educated guess, if your new signal is from an engine that has 6-cylinders and the old one (that the tachometer was made for) had 4-cylinders, you might expect that your tachometer would read 6/4 (which is 3/2 or 1.5 or 50% too high), so you might need a x2/3 to correct it. But this is only an educated guess, it would still be best to confirm how far off your tachometer is reading, by seeing the tachometer's readout at known RPMs.
Multipliers for other signal sources:
Coil On Plug - In the case of COP (Coil On Plug - where your engine has one coil per cylinder) you can tap into one of your coils low-voltage triggering wires (typically the negative) for a signal. Using this method, you would typically need a x4 multiplier to drive a 4 cylinder tachometer properly, or a x8 to drive an 8 cylinder tachometer properly. Our standard ATSDr does not come with x4, x6 or x8 settings. When purchasing the ATSDr just let us know (in the comment field, or via email) that you need the "ATSDr_High version" which comes with x4, x6, x8 (along with x1/2, x2/3, x3/4, x1 and x2), or order a TSDr module with the appropriate setting.

Wasted Spark- In the case of Wasted Spark systems (where your engine has one coil per two cylinders) you can tap into one of your coils low-voltage triggering wires (typically the negative) for a signal. Using this method, you would typically need a x2 multiplier to drive a 4 cylinder tachometer, a x3 to drive an 6 cylinder tachometer, or a x4 to drive an 8 cylinder tachometer properly. Our standard ATSDr does come with a x2 and x3 setting, but not a x4 setting. If you need the x4 setting, just let us know, when purchasing, that you need the "ATSDr_High version" which comes with x4 as one of the eight settings, or order a TSDr module with the appropriate setting.

Fuel injectors- Another option is to tap into one of your engine's fuel injectors triggering wires (typically the negative) for a signal. Using this method, you would typically need a x4 multiplier to drive a 4 cylinder tachometer properly, or a x8 to drive an 8 cylinder tachometer properly. Our ATSDr does not have a standard x4, x6 or x8 setting. When purchasing the ATSDr just let us know (in the comment field, or via email) that you need the "ATSDr_High version" which comes with x4, x6, x8 (along with x1/2, x2/3, x3/4, x1 and x2), or order a TSDr module with the appropriate setting.

What multiplier do I need?
This might not be a simple answer, and we certainly can't answer this for you. If you are unsure, all we can say is that you should purchase the ATSDr (Adjustable TSDr) module, which has most of the common settings that you might need.

To determine which multiplier you need, the best way is for you to figure out by what factor your tachometer is currently reading incorrectly. If the tachometer is reading 50% higher (or 1.5x) than what it should, you would need a x2/3 multiplier to correct it. If it is reading 1/2 of what it should you would need a x2, and so on. You can also make an educated guess, if your new signal is from an engine that has 6-cylinders and the old one (that the tachometer was made for) had 4-cylinders, you might expect that your tachometer would read 6/4 (which is 3/2 or 1.5 or 50% too high), so you might need a x2/3 to correct it. But this is only an educated guess, it would still be best to confirm how far off your tachometer is reading, by seeing the tachometer's readout at known RPMs.
Multipliers for other signal sources:
Coil On Plug - In the case of COP (Coil On Plug - where your engine has one coil per cylinder) you can tap into one of your coils low-voltage triggering wires (typically the negative) for a signal. Using this method, you would typically need a x4 multiplier to drive a 4 cylinder tachometer properly, or a x8 to drive an 8 cylinder tachometer properly. Our standard ATSDr does not come with x4, x6 or x8 settings. When purchasing the ATSDr just let us know (in the comment field, or via email) that you need the "ATSDr_High version" which comes with x4, x6, x8 (along with x1/2, x2/3, x3/4, x1 and x2), or order a TSDr module with the appropriate setting.

Wasted Spark- In the case of Wasted Spark systems (where your engine has one coil per two cylinders) you can tap into one of your coils low-voltage triggering wires (typically the negative) for a signal. Using this method, you would typically need a x2 multiplier to drive a 4 cylinder tachometer, a x3 to drive an 6 cylinder tachometer, or a x4 to drive an 8 cylinder tachometer properly. Our standard ATSDr does come with a x2 and x3 setting, but not a x4 setting. If you need the x4 setting, just let us know, when purchasing, that you need the "ATSDr_High version" which comes with x4 as one of the eight settings, or order a TSDr module with the appropriate setting.

Fuel injectors- Another option is to tap into one of your engine's fuel injectors triggering wires (typically the negative) for a signal. Using this method, you would typically need a x4 multiplier to drive a 4 cylinder tachometer properly, or a x8 to drive an 8 cylinder tachometer properly. Our ATSDr does not have a standard x4, x6 or x8 setting. When purchasing the ATSDr just let us know (in the comment field, or via email) that you need the "ATSDr_High version" which comes with x4, x6, x8 (along with x1/2, x2/3, x3/4, x1 and x2), or order a TSDr module with the appropriate setting.

 

The new U-Frame showed up from California at the end of last week.

After cleaning it with mineral spirits I sprayed it with the rubberized undercoating and then put it on the car.


Tonight I am going to de-pin the SVX wiring harness to get rid of unneeded wires.

 

x2/3

 

I got around to working on the SVX ECU harness. I double checked all the labeling of the wires I did about a month ago and all seems well. I oped not to remove any pins at this point since I don't know exactly which pins I'm not going to use(there were only a few that I knew for sure were not needed)

I pulled the wiring harness grommet out of the firewall (engine room view)

(Passenger room view)

I also pulled up the interior carpet and removed the glove box and the blower.

2002 OBS Stock ECU

Randomly I decided to fix the Timing belt cover with some epoxy since the previous owner had the crank pully come off and the belt wore through the plastic.

It's not pretty but at least less dirt will get into the timing belt.

 

Yuck....doing it the hard way. No fun.

 

Update:
Last weekend I was able to make good progress on the swap with the help of two friends.

Saturday we were able to do a full timing kit including water pump and thermostat. The EG33 is the easiest DOHC Subaru engine to replace the timing on since the top two cam pulley's are connected to the bottom by helical gears (under the valve cover). We also replaced the rear main seal along with valve cover gaskets and spark plugs. Seen below is a inexpensive crank pulley that the previous owner used to replace the stock one. Since it rubs on the timing cover I likely won't be using it but any stock EJ crank pulley will work.


We also installed the coil packs:

And here is a shot of when I was putting the flywheel on:

We had a goal of getting the engine in the car on Saturday night but ran into a snag with the clutch. I had a 2003 WRX clutch which is the wrong style for the 2006 FXT transmission (push vs pull).
Also I have to modify the transmission and put a stud in it for the second starter bolt.
So I decided to cut the manifolds off of the SVX exhaust and clean them up.


I also cut out the center support for the crossbar where the radiator is located along with removing the hood latch:

Then Tuesday the Saab 900 turbo radiator (Nissens 64059A) showed up.


With nothing but moving that support I was able to set it in place to get an idea of fitment:

Size comparison with the stock radiator:

Also we were able to get a good start on the wiring harness. See here for more details.


The rest of this week I will be fitting exhaust and looking at fitment for the radiator, fans, and AC condenser.

 

I modified the transmission to fit the second starter bolt as described earlier with using a grinder with a wide disk. (be sure you use a respirator)

You can see in this next photo that the bolt won't spin:

On top of that I put JB weld paste over it and now it's solid.
New Clutch also showed up yesterday.

 

Weekend Update
On Saturday a friend and I installed the Clutch which went rather smoothly.


Then began the process of dropping the EG33 into the car.


Once i got the AC condenser out of the way it dropped right in.

Quite a bit longer than the H4.


Then I installed the exhaust manifolds to see how well they fit.

They will get paired to a 2002 WRX catback that I picked up.

I am also working on cleaning up the intake.

-Eazy

 

That is awesome. If you get a chance you should take a better photo and post it here.

Is that the stock RS radiator?

The radiator I will be running is much smaller and will fit under the top crossbar, but there is going to be some fab work required.

 

Are you planning to have A/C? That'll be interesting

 

Yeah I will have A/C. The condenser is going it sit out in front of the Radiator, the Saab Radiator will fit under the "cross bar" and then I've got some slim fans that I will have between the Engine and the Radiator.

 

Sounds good in theory. I've worked on at least 5 EG-swapped EJs (one car with 2 different owners and completely different goals)......almost every one with a different radiator setup. I'm not saying it's impossible, just going to be interesting.

 

Care to share what worked out best of the swaps you've done?

I'm anticipating cutting metal and welding at this point.

 

This weekend we mocked up the radiator and AC condenser. To do this we removed the top crossbar.

Had to notch out the bumper for the AC dryer, but it was pretty minimal. Also cut a few small pieces of plastic off the headlights.

Modified the drivers side to fit the AC lines.

Still plenty of room to mount the slim fans I ordered. I measured about 3.5 inches between the crank pulley and the radiator.

Top profile.

 

This past week I've been ordering a few things for the engine (coolant tube o-rings, Radiator Fans) along with planing out the AC and exhaust.

I picked up these fans from ebay:


I also figured out the the hole in the Radiator was for a cooling fan sensor:
Sensor: http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku=802 46025 743&itempk=207996&mfr=VERNET&weight=0.130


Since then I've been focused on wiring with the help of a friend. This weekend we started connecting things on the engine side of the harness.


I really like the heat shrink butt connectors that I picked up from an company in the metro area.



They seal nice so that no moisture can get inside the connection.



It's starting to look like a wiring harness. You can see where both the Stock ECU and MS3 will attach. (other connector is for the MS3X)


Here you can see the copper tape shields:


That's all for now.

-E

 

Been a few, but I am still working on this thing

The wiring harness is 99% complete with the exception of power and the Innovate Motorsports O2 sensor kit that I am wiring in.

Looks like a mess, but once you go over the diagrams it's not so bad.

I threw my wheels on to see what my new ride height would look like.

This gave me a chance to clean out the garage.

I also went to a local junk yard and picked up and external coolant reservoir from a 99 Saab 9-5.


Last night I had a friend over who kindly offered to do some welding on the exhaust manifolds.


We cut up the stock cat-back from the Impreza exhaust and tacked it in place.

The result with the help of a Y-pipe from Summit Racing. This should weld up nicely.

That's all for now!
-Eazy

 

Nice work so far! it should sound pretty mean with the UEL set up.

Mike

 

Update:

This past weekend we finished the exhaust for the swap.

You can see the bung for the wideband O2 sensor in the center of the Y-pipe.


Shot of it mounted to the WRX catback.


View of the Cat and the homemade flange.


O2 sensor installed top view.


I also put the intake on the car this weekend.


Due to the flywheel being from a 2002 WRX and the Transmission being from a 2006 Forester XT, the throw on the clutch slave cylinder was not long enough. Basically the thickness of the flywheel caused this issue. So we tacked a spacer nut in for the mean time and all is well.

Hope to install the wiring next.

-Eazy

 

I love the solution for the slave throw.
What welder are you using? Is that a 220v or 120v unit?

 

It's a 120v Unit. My friend describes it as an entry level MIG welder. Seems like this one from Northern Tool: http://goo.gl/uJUiwC

 

Yeah, I've been shopping for a 140 myself. Just waiting for a good used deal to show up.
How do you like it?