Well as some know but most probably don't, I have been having some issues with bad misfires at the top of my tunes this year and we can't nail down exactly what is the problem. Ron called Phil at element (because I am using hydra) to see what types of things he could do with the tune to help this misfire issue. He suggested adjust the dwell and other things within the tune and hydra to help the problem... Nothing. That was after the first 5 hours on the dyno, our next thought was spark blowout, I was borrowed a set newerish set of coil packs from the awesome Nuke to try, also at the same time I upgraded to a NGK laser iridium super mega awesome park plug (12-15ea) anyway i got on the dyno made a few pulls and things looked good..... After the 4-5 pull things started going south again, got back on the phone with phil for more ideas but ended the day with nothing new. At this point I am just pissed at my car for making this so difficult. This weekend I went to Brainerd for the MAP event and ran my car down the 1320ft course a number of times 12-13 to be exact. This was pretty repetative with little break in the middle for lunch and whatnot. After reading all this yes I am getting to the point, kind of. At the end of the day run 10 or so, I noticed when I left the line that the car would start to bog (not from leaving the line wrong but some other mechanical/electrical issue) i really noticed it when i left, the car shook a little as it was trying to get traction and then it completely shut of (only for a half a second or 1 second) but then it came back on and left like a rocket (almost as if still in boost...??) and i got the the end of the line. I thought this was weird but just decided to run again to see if it i did it again. Sure enough it did, I know for a fact 100% that my car completely lost all power and then turned back on in a flash because my radio (pioneer avic z1) requires some load time to get going upon startup. After leaving the line and having it shutter/shut off it came fully turned on at the end of the strip. Now i thought it may have just been from hot lapping all day, but tonight (finally close to end of story) after leaving holiday from filling up on some corn. I left and just got into boost with my foot on the floor and WOT and the car shut off again EVEN more violently and noticeably now than before. It did this in first gear, and after i got into second i did the same thing WOT and it shut off again..... THE THE HELL IS WRONG WITH MY CAR!!!!!!!!!!! I am thinking that the misfire issue is coming from this voltage drain/change/bull crap. Could my alternator be causing this? I checked the basic grounds to the vehicle, on the battery, and on the motor and found nothing. Anybody have any idea where to go from here or what troubleshooting can be done!!!??? Thanks for all your help fellas it is ALWAYS greatly appreciated. Matt
Hum, maybe the motor torquing in the frame is pulling on something or grounding a pos. terminal. Is the battery fastened correctly?
Yes I just put the stock battery tie down back on for this weekend. Its solid as a rock now, not moving anywhere.
Now two more instances. I just took the car up to home depot to see if it would act up. I didn't get anything while i was WOT however, upon shifting into a different gear (either because its at high RPM around 6.5-7k or because of a fast shift) it would shut off. It did this 3 times going from 3rd all the way up in RPM while shifting into 4th. Now i wasn't flat foot shifting or power shifting but track speed shifting. The other thing that I noticed was that when I made a hard right turn it started to sputter and shut on and off as if there was some sort of short being made while the steering linkage was turned all the way right....? Any more ideas guys?
Grounds are funny things. You say your grounds are all sound but are they all stock? We have grounds all over and in then end are bound by what is supposed to link them, the chassis. I have read the ground mod and if you haven't done something like that you should. Personally the beefier the system the better the ground should be. High strand count wire is easy to get these days (not like when I was doing custom stereos in the 80"s) I would link every ground back to the battery. IMO: Unless you have a detailed schematic, and know what ground is for what; you have to treat every one like it's for the ECU/turbo controller/flux capacitor whatever and don't rely on the chassis to link them.. There have been guy's on my Suzuki forum that have had their ignitions cut out at exactly 4500 RPM because of a bad ground to the Tach!..
I hear ya. I did do an upgrade to all of the main grounds and power wires. They are all about 4 gauge wire.
you are leaking power steering fluid from what i remember. ( im the one with the wingless wrb sti at brainerd) lol
Yes civic 11.6 FOUND MY PROBLEM!!!! I hope to god this solves all the problems I have ever had. The Y block that the fuel comes from the trunk and goes to each fuel rail is now metal and is what caused a leak in my AC line.... Well not being smart and moving it, it slowly dug its way into the power wire running to my starter and therefor shorting out the car on the AC line. This is 150% sure what was causing my car to short out and die while making right turns, it also explains why when i would get into the powerz it would also shut off (all the G forces moving that thing around) now lets hope to god the misfires where happening because of a really small short happening and drawing the power away from the ignition and battery. Off to RS tommorow for a few parts and then fixin and back to RS for some tuning action....... (FINGERS CROSSED!!!!)
Good to hear you found a possible solution! Now you know why the oem adds all that ugly rubber foam everywhere.. lol
12.15 driving like a grandma apparently. I am going to change out that power wire and see if that does the trick, I know it will fix the car shorting out and shutting off, and im crossing everything i can that it will take care of the misfires as well too
