Hi guys, Firstly, car started up perfectly fine this morning. No issues with the battery. On my way to work this morning, my gauges started to flicker. Then the car felt like it cut out for a split second, all the gauges dropped to zero as if the car was turned off. Then everything came back to life. So it never really stalled. I instantly pulled off on the closest exit. Pulled into an empty parking lot. Turned the car off. Tried to turn it back on, nothing. Clicked, as if the battery was dead. So my first thinking right away, the battery is dead. Ironically, I am in the midst of moving so I have a spare battery from my past car that I was moving out of storage with me. I hooked it up, got a jump (it was dead from being in storage for probably 2+ years), and got on my way. The same issues started happening again. I hooked up my AccessPort and started reading the battery voltage. When the flicker/semi-stall would happen, it was dropping to 8.5v. Otherwise, while driving or idling, it was at around 14v. Luckily I made it to my destination. Turned the car off when I arrived. And can't start it back up. The battery is acting dead. So at this point do I assume it's the battery? The battery I initially took out said 2006 on it. The battery I put in had been in storage for 2+ years, and who knows how long before that it was on the car. It looks like an OEM (from the dealer) battery. Says Mitsu on it. Can just a bad battery alone cause these symptoms? Or do you think it's the alternator? A bad ground? This just came about today. I haven't seen this issue before, so it came on quick. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
I would say make sure the bat terminals are tight but if you swapped bats you should have noticed that. If you have a multi-meter i would check voltage at the bat with it running. It should be close to 14v indicating your alt is working. I would try a known good battery and check voltage again. If you aren't getting ~14 the bat has taken out your alternator.
Well I'm getting a ~14v reading on the AccessPort. But when symptoms occur it drops for a split second to as low as 8.5v. I'm assuming this is a sure sign of the alternator voltage regulator being bad?
Weird thing is, this morning it started right up. But then when the issues arose and I turned it off, it wouldn't start back up. So from starting it this morning and then trying to start it again halfway to work, somehow the battery seems to have died. I guess that just proves that the alternator wasn't working, and all of the electronics that were running just drained the battery.
Yes, the ABS light came on. I did quickly visually inspect the belt, but it could probably use another look.
ya mine were dimming and the abs light came on wile driving the other day changed my belts and worked great.
My alternator went out the other day, Everytime I hit the brake, my stereo would turn off. It finally died at a stop light. Switched out the alternator and every thing is fine again. I already had a new battery.
You can also take your alternator in to advanced and they can check to make sure it is bad before buying a new one.
Sorry, it has to be off the car. The best way to test it on the car is how you already have done, volt meter to the battery.
I would also check your grounds. At the battery, from the ground on the battery to the chasis, and the alternator.
Good to specify. I assumed you were talking about a Volkswagen or Audi since you're having electrical issues...
just bring a deep 12mm and 10 mill sockets and a 6" extension and remove it in the parking lot. remove plastic, undo bolt between ac and alt, and remove bolt below the between the ps pump and the alternator 15 mins tops. then look at your belt and buy a new one unless you changed it in the last 60k
My vote in the alternator. I'm about 98% sure of it in fact. My 02 sedan did the same thing and i put a brand new battery in last fall. My guages weren't back in the car yet, but the dash lights would flicker...along with the headlights. The alternator was working ever so slightly and would keep enough charge on the battery that it would start every time. I took advantage of the "warning" and went and grabbed a brand new alternator, swapped it and everything has been good since. Literally takes 10-20 minutes to disconnect it and swap in a new one. Definitely be the cheap route to grab the one from Chad if he still has it, otherwise i got mine new for $230-ish from CarQuest and the core deposit was $70-75.
So far I've replaced the battery with a brand new one (the one in there was 6 years old) and replaced the terminals (negative was a little corroded, and I broke the positive one tightening it down too much). So far, everything is working perfectly fine. I guess the next step would be, if the issues came up again, the alternator. Thanks everyone!
