Well no where near rich really, but I now have enough to paint my car. I've been looking around for not only the right color but the right brand. I found a site that seems pretty squared away, and affordable: http://www.paintforcars.com/urethane_base_clear_kits_starfire.html http://www.paintforcars.com/urethane_base_clear_kits_5star.html The difference between the two is the clear coat, from their descriptions they're the same, I also didn't notice any primer in the kit-unless I can't read. I'm just looking for some input on brands, quality and durability. We all know MN isn't the nicest to paint jobs and I wanna make sure I do this right the first time. Any input is GREATLY appreciated.
I guess I don't understand what the project is. Are you completely re-spraying the car? I would never buy my paints in "kit" form. And worrying about paint longevity here has alot to do with how much you wax it, and how much you drive it. If this is your daily driver, you might want to simply admit defeat now. The winters and the salt and sand are brutal, the sand after the spring melt is brutal, the roads are in need of repairs more than they are repaired, birds, tires, rocks, etc...if you daily drive your car, expect your paint to be chipped to **** within a year or two. No two ways about it really. That kit doesn't appear to have primer, but here's a shopping list I'd use. Honestly, I wouldn't buy those paints because I've never dealt with them. Spend the extra and get decent paints from a PPG supplier. Or I've heard that Sherwin Williams automotive paints are good stuff too. At least 2 cans of metal/paint prep/Prep-all whatever the brand. You may need more than that. LOTS of shop rags, lint free. LOTS of painters tape, blue, 3M. If you are buying anything but 3M Blue Painters tape, you are ****ing up. Cheap trashbags, or a stack of newspapers 1 quart of primer. 2 packs of 400grit wet/dry sandpaper a sanding block A bucket rags tack cloth 1 pack of 1500 grit paper 1 quart of color. 1 gallon of clear (you likely wont use this much, but the more the merrier, urethane) Machine polisher 3M medium and 3M fine cut polishes. 6" angle grinder (for the difficult rust) 1 can of sandable black primer aerosol 1 can of sandable grey primer aerosol HVLP spraygun. Nozzles for fine and medium spray some sort of spray booth...with positive air pressure. A garden hose with water connection near by.
Either you came into a LOT of money, or are moving south. Rust ALWAYS wins in Minnesota, no ifs, ands or buts about it. It always resurfaces from the deep, dark confines where you don't/can't get a good, non-violated seal between the paint and the metal body. It will be back. Good luck.
I'll just rhino line it...no but I'll just save it up for something nice or more fun than a pretty new paint job. Thanks a lot guys. Sent from my Droid
Base, a decent high-solid clear, acid primer, sealer, primer-surfacer, (along with all the activators and reducers for those products), abrasives, compounds, masking, and a ****-ton of other stuff to properly paint my car and change it's color has easily added up to $2k or more. That doesn't include the compressor I bought and much more. Save your money. Unless you have a welder and are adept at properly fixing rust, it will be back in short order.
And Jason, blue 3M isn't for cars. It's for painting walls in houses. The green 3M Automotive Performance Masking tape is where it's at. It is expensive, but worth it. 3M's Highland is also decent, but still not the green.
hi, let me know how it goes, please post up pics of the project, i'm thinking about doing some paint work on my 95 legacy but at a good deal and I really don't want to resort to just using primer and a spray can.
