I still have yet to receive any (correct) parts in the mail.. I got the 3" to 2.25" silicone 45 degree coupler that will go from the MAF to the inlet BUT, the coupler might not even work! The ebay ad (mistake number one..) said 3" ID. Its definitely not 3 inches at all. Its more like 2.75. I might be able to make it work, we will see. In the mean time i've been working on another motorcycle project to keep my hands/mind busy after work. Its an FZR400. Picked it up for 50 bucks locally! I already had an FZR600 parts bike with a low miles engine that I picked up last year so i'm swapping the 600 engine into the aluminum 400 frame to build up a race bike! I pulled the wiring harness off the 600 and started slimming it down. Removed all the lighting, relays, horn, etc. I'm basically just going to run the charging system and the bare bones components (neutral light, oil light, fuel pump, tacho) I spent all last night at work listening to music, cutting up the harness.
They are great bikes! My roommate has a 92 FZR600 and I have a 95 YZF600. The aluminum frame should make this bad boy light and very flickable.
FINALLY my parts came yesterday. Silicone Y pipe, TDO4 inlet elbow, and the top mount to throttle body coupler. I'm leaving work at 3 and going to do as much work in the garage as I can without freezing to death.
It's been a while since my last update but a lot has happened! Iv'e got all the silicone parts installed, Y-pipe modified, intercooler on, turbo bolted down, downpipe on, and O2 sensors in. Turbo and 2.25 elbow installed with downpipe mocked up Extended Y-pipe leg I ran into a few issues with the intake, post MAF. I was planning on putting a 3/4 in hose adapter in the silicone 45 reducer (which I got to fit over the intake by heating it in the oven ) but the way I was going to seal it in there just didn't seem secure enough to me. So my temporary solution is to put the 3/4" hose adapter in a 2" piece of PVC, cut down the 45 degree coupler a bit, install the PVC section, just run the IACV to the adapter, and try starting her up. I ordered a completely redesigned intake I mocked up that wont use the stock airbox or the PVC adapter. The parts should be here Monday. But I would really like to get it running tonight! I will post a video if I get it started!!!
IT RUNS!!! *(^o^)* After work I hooked up my PVC intake piece, plumbed the last coolant line, put in 2 gallons of coolant and 2 gallons of 93. Checked everything. CHECKED EVERYTHING AGAIN. then popped the keys in..... no start.. (;_ I had lain down some clean cardboard to catch andy drips or spills. The only thing I saw was a watery black substance that had come form somewhere near the up pipe junction. Everything else was clean.. Went inside and warmed up and researched the black liquid stuff. Deduced fuel, running to rich. assumed I needed to swap back to stock injectors. Just for sh*ts, 15 muinutes later I went back out to try and start it again. Maybe the fuel had dried up and I could get her goin. Cranked about 10 times.. sputtered, popped, STARTED!!!!!!!!!! (*-*) It gasped for a bit then got up to about 2K rpm. I quickly jumped out the un-pinch the IACV pipe which is heinously kinked routed. It dropped the 1.5 and slowly warmed up. I topped off the coolant and checked the floor for leaks to find no more black fluid. Hopped back in the drivers seat. The idle slowly came down to 0.9K. Sounded really good and really throaty. Tapped the pedal once or twice and boy was it loud! Its running just the catted STI downpipe so it sounds super gnarly. More updates to come!
Took it for a test spin around the block this afternoon and wowza is it torquey down low! I didn't even rev it past 2K (mostly because I'm scared) at it ran great! But here's 3 things I learned: 1. It almost dies when you press the brakes (I'm assuming that IACV kink related) 2. I need a MUCH better way to route the various engine vents. A vent hose on the head popped off and jizzed oil on the left hand side of the bay 3. And the power steering pump super busted. It leaked all over the left head which I was pissed about... Im going to try and find a power steering pump at u pull as well as a drivers side sun visor. Might do that tomorrow. And the new intake components should be arriving on Monday. Overall, super stoked it rund
I took her out for a longer test spin today (5 miles) and smelled some burning coolant. There was a slight leak in one of the coolant lines from the turbo and it was pissing onto the engine. I will fix that when I put the new intake components on. Besides the really rich startups (which I hope the ECU will iron over) it runs well. I have noticed a bit more noise form the heads, likely because they are the older hydraulic lifter style. Also, I hear the coolant capacity on an EJ22 is about 2 gallons. When I first filled it it took down about a gallon, then waited for the fans to go on, and it only gulped down like 1/5th of the second gallon. Am I missing a whole bunch of coolant??
Found where the coolant was leaking from! It was the water pipe. I'm going to fix it after work today, get some more coolant, and refill the rad and burp all the bubbles out. Also the damn powersteering pump leaks... I should have taken a hint from the Valvoline "stop leak" powersteering fluid bottle in the back seat... I'm going to get a replacement ASAP so there's isn't ATF all over my hard work.
I completely forgot about this thread! Since I posted in here last I've changed oil (Rotella T6), replaced the power steering pump, installed a new front bumper, moved the front O2 sensor from the rear O2 bung back up to the stock location on the passenger side head, and earlier this week I wired up my Perfect Power 6 ECU piggyback.
I would have some videos!! But I don't have anything decent to get footage on. And a lot of suspension/brake work needs to be done before I show any of you guys what I'm dailying right now... lolz.. blown struts and bald tires and the likes A few other issues have come about as well: Last week I fixed my CEL by putting all the O2 sensors back in and in their proper place. After everything was installed and torqued down, I reset the ECU, then started up the car and let it warm itself up to operating temp before taking it out on a test run. It ran fine, boosted fine, no CEL, much less low speed bucking, and it even felt like it went into gear easier. Then on Sunday, I was just driving about and all of the sudden upon pressing the gas pedal past like 1/8th throttle, the car would buck and jerk and hardly went anywhere. No CEL. Just terrible bucking while trying to accelerate, even when barely boosting. I slowly went home and tried to brainstorm as to why this could be happening. After a couple hours of thinking I theorized that the ECU hadn't been fully reset. It was unplugged for a while, at least long enough to reset the O2 sensor CEL, but possibly not long enough for the ECU to fully reset. My thought was that by previously having the front O2 sensor in the rear had reduced the reading that sensor saw, and as a result the ECU richened up the "tune", which allowed for good turbo operations. Then moving the O2 back up the the front stock location eventually caused the ECU to readjust the previous "tune" to be much much leaner. That's my best guess as to what could have happened. So on Monday night after work I started wiring in the Perfect Power 6. Tuesday CEL came back on I didn't have time to do any tuning of fuel maps until tonight. I added fuel across the board from 2K RPM upwards. I'm only adjusting "analog map" which makes adjustments to the MAF sensor to add more fuel (I think??). I will take a screenshot of the SMT6 program (its on my windows PC) so its more clear, but the program just adds fuel based on a graph of throttle position VS engine RPM. more fuel for more RPM's and wider throttle position. I downloaded the map to the unit and started her up. Once the engine got warm I tried some WOT boosting on the highway. WOOO WOOO! Pulls great. BUT after about a half hour of driving, it felt like it had less power and almost started bucking again. Why? Heat? Do I need to pull timing?
Any tips guys? I replaced the front O2 with a WRX unit that is properly grounded. Idle is very smooth now. It seems like the longer the car is running, the more chance I have of running into bucking/ loss of power issues. My temps are ranging right around 100 to 112 degrees. That doesn't seem very hot at all to me so I don't think it could be heat issues. I tired going richer on the piggyback, and it seemed to help yesterday, but today after sitting in traffic for a while it started to hesitate anywhere past 3K RPM. I think the ECU is doing something really funky, but I have no clue..
I'm assuming you already ruled out the mass airflow censor? Mine needs a good cleaning every 3 to 6 months
I cleaned the MAF about 2 weeks ago. I might pick up a new MAF. my current one if from the junkyard. I'm thinking about buying a FMU and then just pull timing with the Perfect Power unit. But before that I'm going to buy a wideband and try my best effort at getting the PP6 working 100% correctly.
Just picked up a Vortech FMU on RS25. I will be doing a TON of suspension work over the long weekend and hopefully the FMU shows up and I can install that too.
