This helped me a lot! I'd suggest "playing" with the settings a bit (bump the derivative and integral) and see what the car does. Also, change your target idle in the map to around 1000 just to have a good idle and you can work your way down from there. Make sure to save the previous map so you don't lose your previous settings in case this isn't the answer.
At Idle when it was running it had Vaccumm at around -24 , -28 on my Prosport gauge And my volts read 14.0... But it was a slow climb from 10.7 No it only dies when it gets the surge of power from the battery Yea brand new when installed the motor
Thanks Kelly, Ill send this to ronnie. i'm gonna drop it off with him today and he can have to for a few days
Next thing I would do, it watch both when you start it up and it dies. Does the vac stay steady at -24 then just go to 0 when it dies, does it bounce around at all, does it drop down to (insert random number here) before it dies. Then I would also watch it when you roll up the windows and turn the steering wheel. Then I would do the same thing with the alt/battery voltage. Does it change at all when you do the things that make it die, and what happens. What I am really looking for is if the vac is moving around a lot, you could have a vac leak someplace. The windows and the steering wheel thing are placing loads on the motor, and some of those loads are done through the alt. You can even lump the fuel pump into that. Basically as soon as the gas is getting low, the fuel pump needs to crank up to keep fuel supplied, which draws more current, which places that load on the motor though the alt. The keep is to figure out why these little extra loads are killing the motor. Russ
Excellent Reading! I'll try and get more data/tests off the car when its has its problem... Today i'm putting the stock Crank pulley back on and then swaping IACV with Q.
Bring me a size 11. I remember your car didn't react when I plugged the air bypass hose to the idle air control or remove it. This is where it gets the extra air to help the car idle. Thats why I suggested another IAC valve. But bring the car over and I'll try it again. I have another used one here that I can try also.
So far Q's IACV helped! It fired up and RAN the first try BUT had an idle around 1,600 and would change up and down quickly.
So an update On friday before leaving work... I pushed the IACV valve part inward and it cause the idle to be high (in the 2400-3000rpm range) Wouldn't come down any but i think thats cause of the Hydra. After a few on and offs it still goes back to not starting right away. Or idling and dieing. The crank pulley helped some... but wasnt the fix i needed. My volts never go below 12 at crank and stay steady at 14 at idle. Vaccumm hasnt changed from around -24 inhg The A/F gauge reads 18.7-19.2 at my running idle of 1200rpm. Its has a idle change where it will drop to 100-300rpms but recover back to 1200rpms
Well, if you really wanna try it, I'm sure we can figure out a way to make that happen. Should pretty well confirm or deny the iacv's correct operation.
So is that reading correct?? Like that is a wbo2 reading, not a narrowband reading?? Because if that is correct (and can be verified with another wbo2), that might be your problem. You should be at 14.7 or richer (richer for gas with ethanol) at idle. That would also explain the high idle, and that would also explain why it dies as soon as you put a bit of a load on it. With the motor that lean, it is probably barely making enough torque to keep itself running, much less any kind of load the motor may see. Russ
From what I have seen from my wb02 and others when I hit the gas at idle mine went from 14.x to 12-20 then settled in at 14.x again. Brian hit the gas and it did almost nothing the day he showed me it.
Again, try this: More and more convinced this is the issue. I can send you exact latencies to try, if you need. AFR's should be around 12:1 to 13:1 on a cold start.
14.x is correct for idle, when you step on the gas, it uses tip-in enrichenment to richen up the mixture (the 12.x) to help with the increased load on the motor (spinning it up). Once you let off the gas at a higher rpm, as the idle comes back down the injectors may turn off, but for sure they will inject little to no gas, hence the 20.x reading. Once the load has stablized the injector duty cycle will return to normal and your afr reads normal. Like I asked before, if those events do not happen, that is why the motor is killing on you. Russ
what hydra verson? mine is fubar at idle to you can plug and unplug the IAC and doesn't change anything. Ronnie messed with a bunch of settings still didn't change anything, it idles high then low.
latency. Hydra has preset latencys they use for different ohms injector. Its not like the ecuflash/romraider. Its not user defined. It has preset latency for 2, 4 ,8 and 14 ohms injector. I might be wrong and some numbers but those are the settings they give you and you adjust the rest throught the fuel map. edit:Correction on my last post. There is a table for injector response other than the one I initially posted.
Hrm, ok. Well, from my experience, those modded blues have behaved outside of the norm on the few cars I have tuned them on. Might be something worth checking...
So far Ronnie's in the lead with the find that my map was corrupted from a possible bad wideband for the hydra