I have no problem finding a comfortable position in my Recaro Ergomed that I swapped in Only took a few pennies and some custom mounting to get it installed
Finally tackled my fenders. I have some pictures, but the HD on my late 2006 iMac finally gave out. It didn't go bad, no chipping or cracking. I got that middle section of the rear fenders rolled almost flat. There is a slight pull on that section on both sides and I can definitely tell when the light hits it just right. Although, to the average eye, you'd never know, so I'd say all-in-all, it was a success. .... I was scared the whole time doing it!
Interesting. I'm actually pretty comfortable with the lumbar set all the way firm and headrest tilted all the way forward. Much more so than I was in my WRX with the TR/bad Impreza seats.
I shipped my lights to LightWerkz in NJ and had them retrofit projectors and paint the housing. Took about 2 weeks. It was not very cheap.
XT owners! Buy my Yakima crossbar setup! - https://mnsubaru.com/threads/yakima-timberline-towers-and-jetstream-bars-250.52858/
Here are the pictures I took while rolling duh fendasssssss... You can see here how I pulled the fender a bit... And finished roll...
Nice! Didn't I tell ya it wasn't so bad? Heat, patience, go slow... No issues. Although I just rolled the fenders on our race car and cracked the piss out of the paint... Granted the paint is 25 years old and I wasn't exactly ginger lol.
Finally got the headlights swapped back in, the cutoff set... man, these are bright at night. Very crisp and the cutoff is sharp. I need to order some blinker bulbs and an LED flasher to match the on/off of the switchback halos.
I guess I didn't need the flasher module for the LED turn signal lights. I was expecting hyperflash, but they function as they should.
Here is an interesting thread I've started... what a PITA! Might just to go back to stock ride height until after winter and send in my coilovers for a rebuild while I'm at it. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin#/topics/719154
Originally planned to go with a SPT catback and mate it up with a Mishimoto/Grimmspeed/etc Jpipe but a single tip SPT catback exhaust is hard to come by and the more video clips I listen to it sounds like the jpipe (even catted) makes things considerably louder louder with an aftermarket catback/mufflers. So, I've decided I'd like to do a catted jpipe, WRX (hopefully STI resonated) midpipe, keep the stock mufflers, and maybe add some better looking tips. Grimmspeed boost control and custom tune and call it good... maybe a charge pipe as well... Does anyone have a similar setup - essentially full aftermarket exhaust with stock mufflers?
I've had my '16 WRX exhaust sitting in the garage for about 8 months, and have yet to put it on. I have been hesitant to cut the bumper for the quad tips, but have the intention of putting on the midpipe before winter. I am past warranty (65k miles), so a j pipe is not out of the question, but not looking to put much more into this car.
Nice. I hear you there - I finally got around to installing my Curt hitch today. I decided a while back I wouldn't cut the bumper and so that ruled out the Q300 for me. I want to make this vehicle sound good, not loud and I have to get more power out this vehicle to be taken seriously. Did you not receive a warranty extension letter to 100k?
I too have the axlebacks still sitting in the garage uninstalled, was going to do them before the LAX cruise, but my gaskets were backordered.
Figure I'd introduce myself here. I just picked up an '18 FXT Premium. Probably won't do anything too crazy for awhile seeing as I bought the 5 year / 60K warranty. Will be doing some re-badging and emblem shaving here ASAP, otherwise just following along with you all, lots of good stuff in this thread.
Welcome! And my apologies again for derailing your other thread lol. In unrelated news, I forgot to share my latest Blackstone oil report. I used Eneos Susitina 5W30 and in summary, the test results were excellent. Full details from the report: I am trying Amsoil OE 5W30 this time purely due to lower cost and still seemingly good results (according to others' blackstone analysis's). I'll probably do another test after this oil change and post up the results as well.
Has anyone locally attempted the DRLs in the vertical "vents" above the fog lights? I've read a bit on SF.org, looks like they can be had for ~$100, maybe not the best quality, but was curious. Thanks.
I have them. They are really for looks imo. I almost never have them on. I will try to take some pictures when the rain slow a bit. The fitment is hit and miss. I found that if I adjust the tabs on the bumper they do seem to fit better (less gap). Trying to adjust the tabs on the lights themselves was frustrating as they are pretty brittle and break easy.
These were one of the high items on the list originally, and then i started to really like the look without them. Ebay had some for about $80 that I heard about from either SF.org or the SJ fb group...I can't remember exactly.
Anyone need roof rails? (These are not mine.) https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/pts/d/subaru-aero-roof-rack-cross/6352600116.html
Meh, probably soon. Going off roading in the 18th, so probably for that day. Top tip, unless you're using your summer wheels for racing or very, very aggressive street driving (not recommended lol), just put all seasons on your summer wheels. That way if you get catch in an unexpected snow storm, you're not screwed!
Put on my snow tires/wheels today (and changed the Cabin air filter). What offset if after market wheels is everyone running? I have a set of EDR9s that I want to use for winters this season, but I believe that they may be +38. I think oem is +45; will that be ok?
Took the FXT to the dealer for a battery test, for the second time. The first time, my battery barely passed the test. This time, it failed! New battery under warranty. 550 CCA's on the replacement vs 390 CCA of the original battery. 550 isn't amazing, but definitely better than the original. Hopefully my remote start no longer fails!
Charge as in money or electricity? Lol They do fully charge the battery first, and then test it. As far as charging a fee for the test... They didn't charge me for the test or the new battery, but that was because I'm still under 3 year/36k miles. If you're out of warranty, they might test for free but will def charge for the new battery. Any auto store can test your battery.... The competence of the person and test may vary though lol. At the end of the day, a new, good battery is only about $100. Morrie's parts used to carry interstate batteries (some of the best) and your 20% discount applies... So thats probably one of the better options for a new battery.
The next set will definitely be all season... the price tags for summer performance tires are not fun to look at. I was going to wait until this weekend to swap over, but now thats its snowing, again... today is probably the day.
Anyone else have the CEL, hillstart light, cruise and drive mode start flashing? Looks like it has been gas caps more often, a couple cases of the VDC and one guy with bad injectors. I'm limping mine into the dealer tomorrow morning to see what mine might be.
I got all of those lights once...but that was because I pulled the ABS fuse. I was at an ice driving event and was attempting to fully disable traction, stability, etc control. The car really didn't like that...got all of those warning lights, power was non existent, even the power steering didn't seem to be working. Put the fuse back in (don't recall if I disconnected/reconnected the battery or not) and all was back to normal. So maybe you'll get lucky and it is just a fuse? (the ABS fuse is under the hood...might be more than one). I'd double check your fuses, otherwise if you're still under warranty I'd take it directly to the dealer. I would imagine that there is a CEL code, so you could check that if you're curious. With all of the other electrical systems these days, I'm betting that the dealer will be able to check all of the systems for error codes.
it was an evap related code when pulled, Morries claimed it was because of the non-OEM battery... not a fan of their response, honestly.
