For help installing an oil pan on a 2003 WRX. Took it to Jiffy Lube some time ago, recently did the oil change myself this time, only to find that the oil pan won't accept the OEM drain plug w/ new gasket or the drain plug w/gasket from Napa. Anyhow the drain plug gets semi-tight in the pan but doesn't seal up just keeps spinning round and round whilst oil is leaking. I spent countless hours on this and now my back is sore.. If it comes down to it I'll just pay some cash for the help as I don't feel comfortable taking this on without supervision/help/me watching...lol It also doesn't help that I have few tools
2003? IIRC you either have to raise the motor with a hoist or take out the crossmember. either way a big job. (the rear bolts are hard to gain access to)
Would it be cheaper and easier (or even possible) to permanently mount a fumoto valve? The pan is the correct part and only leaks out of the stripped drain plug hole right?
I have swapped the oil pan on my EJ22E numerous times. It is a very time consuming process, and it is bound to be harder on a EJ20. You will need to drop the exhaust manifold, and disconnect the motor mounts. you may need to disconnect other things as well to get the movement you will need (ie intercooler, and pitch stop). You will need to jack or lift the motor up so that it is possible to get at the rear bolts. The bolts are all 10mm and have a philips slot in them. you will need a 1/4" ratchet, RTV (black), 10mm socket, and a variety of different sized 1/4" extensions and swivel joints. a drill with a philips bit can make taking the front bolts out go real fast. Its the back 4 that take the longest. I have gotten pretty quick at this and it still takes me about 2 or so hours to do it. make sure that you are careful while doing this. It doesnt take much for the motor to come down and squash your fingers between the block and the X-member. Scares me everytime. good luck.
I'd help you out if I wasn't busy and about 100 miles away. The lack of tools is really the only hard part. It's basically what makes a decently simple job and really hard one.:laugh: I can't say I've done an oil pan specifically, but I have swapped motor mounts and various other bits a couple times. If that's all it takes, it's not a major pain to do, just a bunch of little stuff and having the right parts. The engine can be lifted up via the transmission right behind the crossmember. The innercooler and pitch stop will be removed. Nothing else needs to be taken off to jack up the engine a good amount. Take off the couple engine mount bolts and lift. Having the correct tools will make tight jobs easy jobs. You might want to have a look under the car and see what kind of space you have available and what tools may be more useful.
Thought about doing that but I have no clue where to get this done reliably and for a decent price. Not trying to spend an arm and a leg if I don't have to.
You can do it yourself. Get a tapping tool at any hardware store and tap over the old thread. First you need to find out the size of the oem drain plug and what kind of thread it has. Then you can go to a hardwear store and get a tapper. First you can just try to clean up the original thread and see if that works if not get a tapper that is one size bigger and a plug that will be the right size. This will save you time on removing the pan and installing a new one.
That's what I'm saying, re-tap (if needed), and permanently install one of these: http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/
Mmmm metal shavings in the oil pan... Ive resealed a few EJ22's in car. If its turbo you shouldnt have to remove the manifold to pull it off. Removing the motor mount nuts, pitch mount, IC, and gearbox nuts should allow you to raise it enough to get at the rear bolts. Ive used a jack under the gearbox as far forward as you can, then stick a stand under the manifold for some security. Also be sure to remove any of the old RTV on the block and pan. Give it a good wipe down with some brake cleaner on a rag. Not really too bad of a job, just take it slow and be patient
