This really pains me to post but I feel I must. Many of you already know why but I want to put out a feeler out for my 2013 sti blurple hatch. I don't have a real price set yet so shoot me offers or suggestions via pm. To prevent the mods from locking the thread, I'll start at $30,000 obo for absolutely everything included. I'd say infinity because of derps signature but we all know that won't fly. Quick overview: $25,000 obo 2013 sti limited hatch in plasma blue pearl (aka blurple) 51k on chassis. 10k on engine. TL;DR: selling because I live too close to work. (no, really) Mods: Act hhsd street clutch Act streetlite 15lb flywheel ID1000 + cobb E85 flex fuel sensor kit Aem 320lph E85 pump Iag aos Aluminati tgv deletes Invidia catless down pipe, 3in Spt cat back exhaust, 3in Accessport v3 License plate relocator "Hello my name is derp" +10 hp. Stock intake (also comes with a k&n typhoon intake, just not installed) Engine: Real st performance built open deck short block - Forged wiseco pistons (stock compression) - Forged manly connecting rods - nitrated sti crank - arp head studs - 10k on shortblock which originally dynod 400-450 wheel before pulled from the first owners car. When I acquired the block I... - upgraded oil pump - Sent the heads/cam out to lloyds for resurface and inspection. - Installed new avcs exhaust cam gears - New timing belt kit and seals where applicable. - I verified the parts but most of the info on it was provided by the original owner. Pros: - Blurple. Hatch. Sti. - heated seats. - Comes with evey stock part I have, including the original block - Also comes with killer B pickup that I ended up not installing - 3 sets of wheels if you want them. (summer, all seasons, and winters) - Extra tmps sensors for the winters (not installed) - Turbo upgrade ready! I did all of the supporting mods so you don't have to! - Car will be detailed by a professional prior to sale. - 26-31 mpg on e20!! (seriously) - New clutch feels amazing! - Decent body that still has all of the badges, no major damage besides front bumper. Cons: - Front bumper needs to be replaced. The clear started peeling a few months after I bought the car, and has only gotten worse. There is also significant crack in the lip from when a semi dropped a chunk of ice on the freeway. - Obviously the engine was replaced which could be a con to some people. - Daily cars get daily bumps and bruises. Some paint chips in the hood but pretty clean otherwise. Has some minor orange peel though. - Clutch is still wearing in, so it may shudder a little. I don't have an issue unless Im over 1.5k rpm in first or reverse. - During disassembling, either myself (most likely) or my assistant (at the advise of me so still my fault) jacked the trans too high and punctured a few wires on the transmission. I pulled all of the wires off an recrimped and heat shrunk them. - Subaru also sold me the wrong transmission bolt (too long) so one of the 6 isn't installed. I'll work on getting that one in when I can. Comes with: Stock: TGVs, cat back, downpipe, injectors, brackets, original shortblock, old clutch and flywheel, extra oil pump, and all of the odds and ends. Aftermarket: K&n typhoon intake, killer b oil pickup Other: 3 sets of wheels/tires. set of winters, all seasons, and summers. Other things: Clean title in hand under my name. The car is financed and has a linen, however I work at the business which provided the loan. I might be able to make the process easier and faster if you are looking to finance the car. Street tuned myself with cobb access tuner. Purchasing this car will give you the option to tune it yourself and use me as a source of knowledge if you so desire. I love teaching what I know and had to learn a lot to figure out e85. The tune is plenty safe, since I ran it for almost a full year on e85 without a problem. If this isn't your cup of tea, I would suggest running the car to JM for a devin tune. It's worth noting: the current map is 91 non oxy safe because of how I leveraged the flex sensor. I started with mapping the timing on non-oxy for the 0% ethanol map on the street then moving to e85. I spent a lot of time tweaking the ethanol blend maps between 0%-30% ethanol by switching back to 93 @ 10% ethanol. This resulted in little to no knock (depending on driving habits) and amazing mpg in the 20-30% range. I estimate that I got 30 Mpg driving to Blaine and back which included me idling in the car wash. From what I've read, a lot of tuners flatten the blend map between 0-10% and call it a day, because it isn't worth the time to monkey with. I got nitpicky and it paid off in my opinion. I'm pretty particular with my cars. So much so that I went as far as paint sealing/waxing the door jam to prevent early onset door jam rust. Whether that helps or not is a discussion for another day. STORY TIME! Under no circumstance do I actually WANT to sell this car. However I'm posting this because I live too close to my job to drive it daily. I found this out the hard way and paid for it dearly. Mid April, the connecting rod bearing spun on cylinder 3. The smoking gun was the massive amount of moisture that had built up in the crank case breather. The breathers collected moisture due to my grany driving 6 miles to work every day this winter. Keep in mind, the crank case breather is right on top of cylinder 3. The short trips wouldnt keep the engine bay hot enough for long enough to evaporate the water in the breather lines. I believe the e70 I ran this winter also contributed to the excessive moisture. I haven't checked the ring gap or pistons yet but there was a good amount of blowby which definitely didn't help. The rebuild was about $4500 and I know you never get what you put in but it's worth mentioning. All of the components were replaced with new, subaru genuine parts where applicable. I wanted to make sure it was done right and I didn't skimp out on something dumb. I want to buy a daily to proactively keep this from happening, however I can't do that and remodel my house at the same time. I think the alternative option is to sell the old mustang which honestly would be more difficult to do. I mentioned it above but I rebuilt the car with a sb that has forged internals and arp studs, as it was the next logical step in making more reliable power. That makes this is the perfect car for a mechanically inclined individual who wants to learn how to tune on the subaru platform. It will also come with the original short block if someone wanted to rebuild it and return it to stock. Thats my long term plan if the car doesn't sell, but I don't have the budget to worry about that right now. Because it's getting warmer, I'll have alternative methods of commuting so the milage may not go up that quick. For the days that I am driving the car, I have been getting up an hour early and driving the "super long way to work", so the engine has plenty of time to boil that moisture out. I'm not a morning person so I don't know how long I could keep this up. Since I've rebuilt the motor, I've already added 300 miles on the car. This is largly so I could break the clutch in but also to verify it's running well. At mile 500, I plan to change the oil and send a sample out for analysis. I'm pretty damn happy with the results so far, which makes this post even harder to write. If you made it this far in the post, thanks for reading.